Posts filed under 'New Perfumes'
Today I just want to dream (and drool) about a few scents from my wishlist. Being a Guerlain maniac, I can’t help but get all atwitter about the following new releases:
Chamade Pour Homme - bergamot, black pepper, violet, hyacinth, nutmeg, precious woods, vetiver, leather. Available at the Paris boutique since February.
Le Muguet - originally created in 1914 and released yearly since 1998 as a one day limited edition (300 bottles only), on April 28. A luxurious lily of the valley! Ah, the bottle makes me weak in the knees.
Garden Oud Oils - yes, I kvetch about the price (200 Euro for a mere 20 ml bottle) but, truth be told, I’m dying to smell these. Garden Sensuel for Women - neroli, ylang-ylang, gardenia, peach, tonka bean, vanilla, sandalwood. Oud Sensuel for Men - neroli, cardamom, geranium, iris, oud, cedarwood, tonka bean.
In my book, Guerlain can do no wrong.
What’s on your wishlist?
Image source: parfumessence.com
April 4th, 2007
In spite of my tirade yesterday, there is actually one fragrance amongst all those clones that isn’t a clone and that rocks my world - Azurée Soleil by Tom Ford Estee Lauder. Technically not a brand new scent, Azurée Soleil is a sequel to the much sought after Azurée Body Oil that came out last summer, the difference is in concentration - it’s eau fraiche. Intended as Tom Ford’s interpretation of the original chypre fragrance Azurée (1969) evocative of Côte d’Azur, the new Azurée Soleil completely does away with oakmoss giving preference to a more trendy concept - a tropical, beach floral with the suntan lotion vibe. As much as I love oakmoss, I could easily do without it in hot weather, Côte d’Azur or not. So I’m quite happy with Azurée Soleil and will be reaching for it a lot this summer.
Azurée Soleil starts out with the most sumptuous blend of Tahitian gardenia and coconut neither of each is overdone or excessive. For a light skin scent, it has a good amount of complexity and development. The heart is creamy and lush, with just a touch of jasmine and magnolia. On my skin, the drydown is all milky sandalwood with hints of caramel. Interestingly enough, Azurée Soleil doesn’t seem as tropical as Virgin Island Water by Creed. Perhaps it’s the absence of the aquatic accord in the former - Azurée Soleil is all about the sun and its interaction with skin. It’s the ultimate sunny, carefree, buoyant, all around feel-good scent for summer.
Azurée Soleil features the notes of Tahitian gardenia, coconut, orange flower, jasmine, magnolia, myrrh, bergamot, mandarin, amber, sandalwood, vetiver, caramel. It’s available at Estee Lauder counters and is very moderately priced.
April 2nd, 2007
I did my own mini sniffa this past weekend - I hit Nordstrom’s and Sephora. I hadn’t done it in what seemed like a long time, and there seemed to be so many new scents out plus my nose is always eager for new fragrant adventures, so off I went. A little sniff here, a little sniff there, and I came home with a firm (and frightening) conclusion: ladies and gentlemen, we’re being invaded by clones. I see clones everywhere. There’s a whole army out there. There’s a conspiracy the purpose of which is to basically reprogram our olfactory receptors to only like scents of one particular kind - the Fresh Fruity Florals (further referred to as the FFFs). The danger is imminent, and we must take immediate action! We must create a detailed plan on how to, first, raise public awareness, and, second, take practical steps to prevent such an audacious attack.
To start with, I’ve put together a list of the most recent FFFs detected, and they are:
- Chance Eau Fraiche by Chanel
- IN2U For Her by Calvin Klein
- Incanto Shine by Ferragamo
- Burberry Summer For Women
- Cherry by Masaki Matsushima
- Very Irresistible Summer by Givenchy
- Sugar Lychee by Fresh
- Rock’n'Rose by Valentino
Warning signs of the FFFs: they usually contain such notes as watermelon, pink grapefruit (or pink anything), freesia, peony, pineapple, lychee, lotus. The frequently used code words to describe them are: “dewy”, “frosted”, “crystalline”, “neon”, “caramelized”, “celestial”, “oxygenated”, “hydroponic”, and the like.
I urge you to aid me in this endeavor - if you agree with the above statements, I’d like to hear your ideas on how to make our fragrant world a better place!
April 2nd, 2007
Stoned is the name of a perfume created by Lynn Harris (the nose behind Miller Harris scents) for a London based jewelry designer Solange Azagury-Partridge. The name very much reflects the general concept and aesthetic approach of this jewelry line that’s been described as “iconoclastic, irreverent and phenomenal” in reference to the precious materials. After browsing the Solange Azagury-Partridge collection online, I couldn’t help but conclude that the pieces are indeed eclectic and unconventional, yet done with the utmost taste and craftsmanship. Likewise, Stoned strikes me as beautiful in an unusual way. “This is the most fun one can have being stoned without breaking the law” - such is the main statement, and I can’t help but agree.
Before I dwell on the scent, I’d like to mention one peculiar fact about Stoned: it’s said to contain diamond dust. I’m not sure exactly what that means and how it affects the fragrance or why it’s even necessary in perfume. To be honest, I’m puzzled. Nevertheless, I choose to blindly follow my nose which declares over and over again its unconditional love affair with Stoned. It’s amusing at times to observe where your nose takes you. With Stoned, it took me to the paths well-traveled, so to speak, for I kept finding more and more similarities with some of my other favorite perfumes. This chameleon of a scent first resembled Voilette de Madame by Guerlain. Later it was Orchidee Blanche by L’Artisan. Then all of a sudden the drydown became almost a dead ringer for L’Air de Rien by Miller Harris. Upon further sniffs, I got Bois d’Armenie by Guerlain and Cashmere for Men by Cristiano Fissore. At this point you might say, “Forget it! It’s hardly worth it”, and you’ll be much mistaken for, despite its kindred spirit, Stoned is a scent of its own merit. Moreover, it’s multifaceted and multidimensional. The initial sweet, powdery notes of heliotrope and rose create a baby-powder-like effect but it doesn’t end there. The real transformation happens when labdanum and musk enter the scene - we get some animalic action. The drydown has a slightly dirty, mossy undertone which gives it a soft vintage effect. All that combined with the excellent staying power, truly funky bottle, and a hefty price tag makes Stoned unbelievably irresistible: you’re stoned indeed.
Stoned is available at Beautyhabit and Luckyscent (that currently has a free shipping promo with the code “stoned”). For more information on availability elsewhere, consult Solange Azagury-Partridge online.
Image source: luckyscent.com
March 21st, 2007
Lady Vengeance is hardly an appropriate epithet for Shakespeare’s Juliet, yet that’s exactly the name of a perfume by the new French line Juliette Has A Gun, a creative project of Romano Ricci, the great-grandson of Nina Ricci. It seems to be trendy these days to deviate from the conventional and come up with new visions of perfumery. The examples range from the regal Parfums MDCI to the downright scandalous Etat Libre d’Orange. Juliette Has A Gun falls somewhere in between, I suppose. It makes no hefty claims, has a decent dose of originality, and some Gothic mischief. There’re currently two scents in the line, and I’ve only had a chance to smell Lady Vengeance (a sensual rose) which instantly fascinated me. Miss Charming (a playful rose) sounds quite promising as well. How can they not, ladies and gentlemen, when both are created by none other than Monsieur Francis Kurkdjian!
The main idea behind Juliette Has A Gun is pretty much self-explanatory: a particular femininity, far from stereotypes. She has a gun and is not afraid to use it. Lady Vengeance, however, is more benign than you might initially assume. It’s primarily a rose scent, done just the way I like it - complex and intense. The only three notes given (rose, patchouli, vanilla) are clearly not all that went into it. However, rose is what you smell - luscious, somewhat dark, and fervent. It’s a sibling to the rose in A*Maze, minus all the spices. The patchouli and vanilla are but accentuating notes, and the drydown is marked by a warm, creamy undertone. Lady Vengeance is mostly amicable, with a slight devilish streak that only adds to its appeal. I’d very much like to own a bottle.
Juliette Has A Gun scents are available at Colette and other department stores in Paris. Pretty please, make them available for sale in the U.S.!
Image source: uliettehasagun.ovh.org
March 19th, 2007
Effortlessly beautiful… how can this be achieved in perfume? I’ve always marveled at such a thing. Perhaps, if you take a simple, elegant idea and a talented perfumer to give it life, a masterpiece is bound to happen. Ellie D, the new scent by Jessica Dunne, is exactly that. Inspired by the memories of her grandmother Eleanor (Ellie) Dunne, an artist and an art collector, the scent is infused “with a youthful and modern sensibility, born of nostalgia”. The perfumer, Michel Roudnitska (the son of the legendary Edmond Roudnitska), has more than proven his mastery in such creations as Noir Epices by Frederic Malle, Amoureuse, Bois de Paradis, Debut, Eau Illuminee by Parfums DelRae. It comes as no surprise Ellie D is so delicately beautiful - no other words are necessary.
Very much in the style of the DelRae creations, Ellie D is perhaps the most delectable lily of the valley I’ve ever encountered. I’ll be bold enough to say it’s the modern day Diorissimo, a little more tame, a little less animalic/indolic. The top notes of bergamot, tangerine, and cyclamen are green and stemmy. The flowers unfold in the heart - a fragile blend of lily of the valley and jasmine. The drydown rests on soft, muted vetiver and sandalwood. Ellie D came to me as a breath of fresh spring air, on the first warm day of early spring, and such it will always be. Beautiful. Effortless. Elegant.
Ellie D features the notes of bergamot, tangerine, cyclamen, lily of the valley, jasmine, gardenia, rose, fig leaves, vetiver, sandalwood, musk, vanilla, and coconut. It’s available exclusively at Henri Bendel’s in New York City. For more information, please check the Ellie D Perfume web site.
P.S. Victoria at Bois de Jasmin did an excellent interview with Michel Roudnitska.
Image source: elliedperfume.com
March 15th, 2007
Bois Blond and L’Ombre Fauve (as well as Ether de Lilas Blanc sur Feuillage Tendre which I haven’t had a chance to smell yet) are the Very Limited Editions by Parfumerie Generale. What that means is the scents will only be available from the company’s online shop through the end of March, and will not be widely distributed, with the exception of Luckyscent which has a few bottles in stock for a limited time. I can’t say I’m particularly fond of the limited edition concept unless it’s a Paris Hilton fragrance or Jessica Simpson footwear (apologies to fans) - the sooner they’re gone, the better. In this case, I’m only partially bemoaning the fact these scents will be so short-lived. To my nose, they’re not as spectacular and trendy as their predecessors. Nevertheless, Bois Blond did appeal to me quite a bit, and I’d very much like it to be part of the regular selection.
“One evening in August, the time of the harvest” is the inspiration for Bois Blond. With notes of cereals, grass, galbanum, cedar, hay, blond tobacco, amber, and musk, it is a bit less complex than it sounds. Bois Blond is all about dry hay and smoky-sweet tobacco on my skin. The note of hay has already been explored in perfumery. It usually adds a somewhat dusty quality. It’s particularly appealing when blended with floral notes, like in Fleur de Narcisse by L’Artisan or Hiris by Hermes. In this case, it’s accompanying tobacco, woods, and amber, and seems to be amplifying these notes. In short, Bois Blond is a balmy, woodsy hay and sweet tobacco blend. It does indeed take me to warm evenings of late summer.
L’Ombre Fauve doesn’t quite inspire too much eloquence. This doesn’t have as much to do with its composition as with its effect. For a scent described as “bestial” and “feline”, it’s rather feeble. Once again, the good old MKK serves as a measuring tool, and the result is hardly animalic. L’Ombre Fauve is a somewhat mediocre blend of patchouli, amber, musk, and woods. It neither impresses nor disappoints. It sort of leaves me wanting for more action, more character. Instead, what I smell is a soft, slightly sweet, ambery patchouli.
Image source: luckyscent.com
March 12th, 2007
Amongst the numerous niche perfume lines that have appeared in the past year or so, Parfumerie Generale undoubtedly stands out as the most innovative and classy. Innovative not only for their choice of unusual perfume notes but also for extraordinary, well-balanced compositions. Classy for renouncing pretentiousness and flamboyance while sticking to their own polished style. While I do not have equal appreciation for all Parfumerie Generale scents, I respect Pierre Guillaume’s approach, commitment, and taste. The news of every new Parfumerie Generale scent always brings me immense excitement, and I’m rarely disappointed. Psychotrope, originally created for the Moscow store Aromateka, is my most recent perfume love.
“A jasmine and leather floral, a strange floral drug, a jasmine with leather petals elaborates a sombre, pervasive fragrance”. I could stop right here as the official description says it all. Impossible as it might sound, it smells just like a flower with leather petals. In my perception, the flower isn’t jasmine, however. I envision the tranquil, polished beauty of a water lily. Psychotrope is a cold leather scent. On my skin, the leather is most prominent in top notes, yielding to green floral notes in the heart. The entire composition is permeated with an almost chilly, aquatic accord that I find extremely appealing, despite my usual dislike of such themes. Psychotrope is simply mesmerizing - it draws you in just close enough to admire but never possess.
Psychotrope features the notes of cyclamen, violet, jasmine, lilac wood, black leather, musk. It’s now available via Parfumerie Generale online boutique under the reference of Private Creation No 617 for 50 ml and No 633 for 100 ml.
Image source: johnstevenson-gallery.com
February 27th, 2007
Le Labo, the hip, New York based fragrance line, has come up with what they seem to think a brilliant idea of exclusivity: creating city-specific perfumes, namely, they’re only available for purchase in that city and require your physical presence. The first one, Tubereuse 40, was crafted for New York where it can be purchased at Barney’s or Le Labo boutique. The next one in line is Aldehyde 44 to honor the city of Dallas and its newly reopened Barney’s. What’s behind this incongruous idea is beyond me. Do they want us to travel to these cities to help the economy? Do they want us to simply suffer over not being able to even place a phone or online order? Or is it simply a random, whimsical concept? I’m afraid I don’t have the answers. What I do have the answer to, though, is the question whether the perfumes are good - yes, they are. Moreover, the city-specific ones leave a much better impression on me than their regular range. Such is the case with Aldehyde 44 - it is the best Le Labo scent so far. End of rant, for the scent’s sake alone (for now).
As the name suggests, the scent is built around aldehydes, perfume ingredients most commonly known for their presence in such Chanel fragrances as No 5 and No 22. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that the top notes of Aldehyde 44 are very similar to Chanel No 22. However, while Chanel No 22 maintains the fizzy, aldehydic theme throughout its entire development, Aldehyde 44 transforms into a luscious, rich floral. It is a bit challenging to discern the flowers here but my nose detects indolic jasmine, hay-like narcissus, and just a touch of tuberose. The scent is sweet-powdery and lush-creamy at the same time. It doesn’t seem to develop much but I’m perfectly happy with what I get. On my skin, that is, for I simply cannot own a bottle, and travelling to Dallas isn’t in my immediate plans. Shame indeed, for a scent this elegant and excellently balanced to be thus confined.
Aldehyde 44 features the notes of aldehydes, tuberose absolute, narcissus absolute, jasmin sambac, musk, woods.
Image source: lelabofragrances.com
February 26th, 2007
Maharanih is the newest fragrance in the Parfums de Nicolai line. Patricia Nicolai is the grand-daughter of Pierre Guerlain and has received extensive training in perfumery, even from Jean-Paul Guerlain himself. I highly admire her creations, my favorite being Balkis (velvety, peppery raspberry), Maharadjah (spicy lavender), Vanille Tonka (candied incense). The scents are marked by not only unique combinations of notes but also by certain exoticism, the search for the undiscovered. Maharanih seems to follow that tradition - it carries a distinct Nicolai mark exploring aromatic and spicy notes.
Maharanih is a radiant scent. Bitter orange soaked in geranium is what you get upon first sniff - aromatic and pungent. The heart is permeated with lavender and a touch of cinnamon, very much echoing Maharadjah. The drydown is softened by smooth amber and barely there sandalwood. I very much enjoy the fragrance but it’s another case of conceptual appeal. I cannot help but think Maharanih would make an excellent home scent. On skin, it lacks a certain something, that quality which makes perfume wearable. Perhaps, it’s also the fact I find it too similar to Maharadjah which I prefer much more.
Maharanih is available at Luckyscent.
Image source: luckyscent.com
February 22nd, 2007
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