Posts filed under 'New Perfumes'
It’s the time of year again to ponder, summarize, draw conclusions, and resolve. The year 2007 has been a prolific year in perfumery, as you well know. The perfume bloggers including myself have voiced their opinions aplenty, yet we feel it’s essential to present you with a report of what we think totally rocked, to put it plainly. Overall, 2007 produced some pretty exciting and noteworthy fragrances, even if I didn’t love them all. In my eternal need to organize everything, I’ve come up with a few categories.
Best Representation Of A Note: The Year Of Iris
Infusion d’Iris by Prada
Iris Pallida by L’Artisan Parfumeur
Iris Ganache by Guerlain
Best Fragrance Honoring The Classics
Gucci by Gucci
Tuberose Gardenia by Estee Lauder Private Collection
Ellie D
Les Exclusifs de Chanel
Best Trendsetter Fragrance
Amaze by People of the Labyrinths
Lady Vengeance by Juliette Has A Gun
Noir en Noir, Moss Breches, Tobacco Vanille, Velvet Gardenia by Tom Ford
Stoned by Solange Azagury-Partridge
Narciso Rodriguez for Men
Patchouli Luxe by Comme des Garcons
Best Relaunch
Montaigne by Caron
Best Flanker
Voile de Fleur by Tom Ford
Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere
Please share yours and check out my fellow bloggers for their picks: Bois de Jasmin :: Now Smell This :: Perfume Posse :: Perfume Smellin’ Things :: Scentzilla
December 27th, 2007
I’m not quite back to my normal smelly self yet so this will be a somewhat condensed version of a perfume review. I’m not quite sure yet if I’ll come around at all, considering how it’s been going. There’s also a change coming up in my life that I can’t talk about yet (no, it’s not physiological). While my nose’s taking an open-ended vacation (with occasional sniffs here and there), my need for sensory experiences is compensated by a strong interest in nutrition (eating fat is good, y’all!) See, this is supposed to be a (mini) review, and here I am digressing like there’s no tomorrow. So, perfume. As reported earlier, a Guerlain maniac as myself has been anxiously awaiting the release of Quand Vient La Pluie (”When The First Raindrops Begin To Fall” - such is the translation in the press release), a limited edition fragrance exclusive to Guerlain boutique in Paris and Bergdorf Goodman in New York. I’m happy to report I quite like it, and that’s all I’m going to say. Sigh. Okay. Maybe not. The scent seems more Guerlain-like than the previous two limited editions (Plus Que Jamais and Nuit d’Amour) with its top notes of powdery heliotrope and iris that’s somewhat resembling Iris Ganache. The next stage is sort of sugary orange blossom that makes me a bit uneasy as it seems a bit too sweet. The drydown saves the day (and nose), however: it is fluffy and velvety and crystal-like all at once. I really do like it and wish it could just magically drop on my lap. The price, in case you’re wondering, is $400 for a 7.5 ml refillable bottle of eau de parfum (that also includes a refill of 50 ml), and $2,600 for a 7.5 ml refillable bottle and a whopping 490 ml refill of pure parfum. I’d say go for the latter. You can order it from Jason Beers at Bergdorf Goodman (212-872-2734).
P.S. Back to my slumber I go. Perhaps you can revive me with your new discoveries?
P.P.S. Forgot to mention why the price is so prohibitive: the bottle is frosted Swarovski crystal in the shape of a rain drop (designed by Serge Mansau). Pretty cool.
Image source: corbis.com
September 11th, 2007
Iris Pallida is the upcoming edition in the L’Artisan Parfumeur exceptional harvest collection for the year 2007 (the previous editions were Fleur d’Oranger in 2005, and Fleur de Narcisse in 2006). You might have noticed there’re quite a few iris fragrances released this year which I personally quite welcome as there can never be too many. In my perfume-illiterate years, I sort of assumed all the floral notes used in perfume conveyed the actual scent of the flower they represented. Little did I know it is not so with iris - what we smell is actually the root or the rhizome that’s crushed into powder and treated with alcohol to produce the extract. What I’ve also learned recently (from the Iris Pallida press release) is that it takes three years from planting for the rhizome to reach the right level of maturity, and a further three years are necessary for the olfactory principle of iris to slowly emerge. Plus, several more weeks are required after grinding to distill an essential oil that eventually solidifies (hence the name iris “butter”). All I can say is that I’m in awe of such a process and would love to have me some iris butter. Meanwhile, I cherish my favorite iris perfumes, and Iris Pallida has quickly earned a special spot.
Up until recently, I divided iris based fragrances into two groups: 1) the deep-earthy ones (Bois d’Iris by The Different Company, Hiris by Hermes; 2) the powdery-metallic ones (Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens, Dior Homme, Iris Poudre by Frederic Malle). Along came Guerlain’s Bois d’Armenie and Iris Ganache, Cristiano Fissore Cashmere for Men, Iris Nobile by Aqua di Parma, and even Chanel 19, and my iris world had suddenly expanded. I’ve discovered iris can also be quite woody and velvety. Iris Pallida is exactly that. It starts off all sparkling floral, then goes all buttery-fluffy, and finally wraps around you like the softest pashmina. I particularly enjoy the dusty, marshmallowy cedar accord in the drydown. It very much reminds me of Bois d’Armenie, just a little more sheer perhaps. It doesn’t seem to have any sillage (although spraying from a bottle can prove otherwise) and is quite tenacious, even if it does appear a bit muted as it dries down. Of all the exceptional harvest fragrances, it’s probably the most understated and instantly likable.
Iris Pallida features the notes of rose essence, orange blossom absolu, violet leaf, anise, iris absolute, cedar, vetiver, patchouli, guaiac wood, ambrette seed, white musk. It will be available in limited quantities retailing $295 for 100 ml bottle.
Image source: iriscolorado.com, press release.
August 21st, 2007
If this dress by Roberto Cavalli (Fall 2007 Ready-To-Wear collection) were a perfume, it’d undoubtedly be Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia by Estee Lauder. (I often turn to fashion when in search for visual equivalents, as you might have noticed, more so than art, simply because fashion has always been my preferred venue, albeit not chosen as career). You might wonder how this seemingly simple attire translates into a seemingly heady white floral with such prominent notes as tuberose and gardenia. The answer is in the overall effect: seamless, chic, and silky-smooth. Tuberose Gardenia flows like silk, clings like silk, and shimmers like silk. It is of pearly color with golden hues. This is as poetic as I can get, and if you asked me for a down-to-earth, judicious opinion, I’d say Tuberose Gardenia is the best new fragrance release in the past several months and is definitely a highlight of my fragrant summer.
The scent is said to be inspired by the 1973 release of Private Collection, an exclusive Estee Lauder perfume created for herself and closest friends. Tuberose Gardenia is an entirely new scent, a sort of modern response to the idea of exclusivity - it’s outstanding, well-developed, and available to the general public, although with limited distribution. It’s an intoxicating bouquet of white flowers - a perfume genre I highly respect, yet often shun (perhaps I’m yet to reach a floral stage, who knows). What I love most about it is its finesse: the notes are blended impeccably. It’s a seemingly straightforward tuberose-gardenia fragrance, with more emphasis on green, stemmy tuberose upon first application, and a lush, creamy gardenia drydown. Yet the bouquet also embraces such notes as neroli, lilac, rosewood, orange blossom, jasmine, white lily, carnation, and bourbon vanilla, and this is where the seamlessness of the composition is almost palpable. It is most decidedly a bouquet, where you can capture all the flowers individually as well as inhale its harmony. Its tenacity is never boring or cumbersome. I simply admire this gorgeous, timeless blend.
P.S. I should also add that I usually don’t click with most Estee Lauder floral scents as they often smell too artificial. White I cannot vouch for how many (if at all) natural ingredients were used in Tuberose Gardenia, I must give kudos to the perfumer for achieving such a credible effect, even if it is 100% synthetic.
Please visit Perfume-Smellin’ Things for Marina’s impressions.
Image source: style.com, neimanmarcus.com
August 12th, 2007
Typically, I judge perfume not only by its olfactory characteristics and lasting power. I also examine its performance: what it does on my skin, where it takes me, how much it opens up, etc. In my perfume pilgrimage, I’ve encountered quite a few exceptional scents that have had but one pesky yet substantial flaw - they failed the performance test. The most recent ones standing in shame with their heads down are the new Kelly Caleche by Hermes and Strip by Agent Provocateur. I don’t think it’d be unfair to say both project rather high expectations. Yet I find myself shaking my head in disapproval and going “tsk-tsk” every time I test them (and believe me, I’ve given them a few chances to redeem themselves).
Kelly Caleche. First of all, named after the Kelly bag and said to smell of leather. Secondly, a Caleche. Thirdly, Jean-Claude Ellena. The result: a beautiful scent, with a lush, almost fruity beginning, and smooth, creamy, floral heart (built around the notes of iris, lily of the valley, mimosa, tuberose, climbing rose). The drydown is rather disappointing: it smells simultaneously like Rose Ikebana from the Hermessence collection, with some hints of Jardin Sur Le Nil, and even Terre d’Hermes. All of these are nice scents, no doubt. But do I want to smell them again, in a brand new creation? I’d rather not. Thus, Kelly Caleche flunks the performance test on my skin - it doesn’t deliver what it promises. That also includes a complete lack of leather. At some point, in top notes, I get a faint hint of it but it’s more like a ghost hovering around in bewilderment, wondering why on earth did they kill him off.
With Strip, the situation is almost ironic. I mean, come on, the name is all about performance, right? Yet Agent Provocateur hasn’t played the game quite right this time. The scent is supposedly built around all the base notes of the popular Agent Provocateur perfume - ylang-ylang, iris, geranium, hot amber oils, vetiver, precious exotic woods, and musks “that react to your body temperature and exude from your skin to release the sexual attractant within” (agentprovocateur.com). Um, how do I say this nicely… let’s just say it did none of such things to me. When I first sprayed it on, I got soft, warm amber with a slightly dirty accord, and at that point it did get me euphoric. And then it just sort of stopped. As in, pretty much vanished from my skin. I kept waiting for some intensity (come on, Strip!), some boudoiresque action, some performance, after all. Alas, it was all but a tease without the strip part.
To sum it all up, I’m still in the state of olfactory ennui. I really hope this passes soon, and the fall season will greet us with truly exciting performance (and action!).
Image source: sybarites.org, agentprovocateur.com
August 7th, 2007
As many of you may know by now, last weekend was the Great New York Sniffathon - Miss Aromascope went to visit Miss Colombina from Perfume-Smellin’ Things. Sadly, we didn’t make the news for the people of New York do not find such affairs worth noticing. For us, however, it was a big thing. New York is possibly the only city in the U.S. with such ample perfume offerings, and, needless to say, for a perfume fanatic the experience is akin to that of raiding a toy store for a child. There was much sniffing, grabbing things off the shelves, clapping hands, leaping for joy, staring into space pondering financial future, bemoaning the lack of available arm space, and a general state of emotional confusion. In short, we had a blast! At the end of it, a couple of conclusions were mutually drawn: 1) sniffing is a bit challenging in super humid weather; 2) despite the abundance, there was not a whole lot of novelty. To clarify the second point, novelty in this case implies the lack of new releases at this particular time combined with our blasé state of mind (and nose). But enough of this. Miss Colombina has written a superb detailed report on her blog, and I’ll give you a more concise version, pointing out the highlights and letdowns.
Top Highlights
For a Guerlain maniac as myself, the beautiful Guerlain counter at Bergdorf Goodman seemed like my second home. My beloved Iris Ganache is already there, Vol de Nuit parfum is still my lemming, and Cuir Beluga chose to spend the rest of its life with me. On the upcoming addition list this fall is the former travel exclusive Vetiver Pour Elle that will grace the famous bee bottle, and Cologne 68 that will join the Bergdorf Goodman selection. There will be two new releases: Quand Vient La Pluie (which will be quite pricey), and Spiritueuse Double Vanille, an impressive vanilla scent a sample of which is in my possession to be scrutinized and reviewed in the near future. What can I say, I’m all a-twitter!
Barney’s New York Frederic Malle section. After a lively and quite enlightening chat with Luis (whom you must see at least once in your life), we left in physical pain over having to keep our mouths shut until further notice. If you haven’t figured it out already, I’m talking about a new release that’s due this September - a masculine scent that’s supposed to sweep us off our feet. Meanwhile, the U.S. version of French Lover that will be called Bois d’Orage will actually be slightly different - heavier on musk, we hear. In addition, there will be a new floral scent next year. An exciting piece of info for those living in Chicago and nearby - there will be a Frederic Malle counter at the Chicago Barney’s this fall. Yippee!
Aedes de Venustas. If you love perfume and have been to New York but not to Aedes, you don’t really love perfume. The shop is a must visit for the experience will be unforgettable. Although we were more enchanted by the lovely Karl than actual sniffing, a few fragrances were fun to try: the new Passion Bresil and Secret Afrique by Esteban, both quite nice for the price; the new Parfums 06130 - Feuille de Reglisse, Lentisque, and Lierre Rose (reviews coming soon). We paid tribute to the exorbitant beauty of Yu by Mane (a limited edition scent that costs $5,000) but chose to proclaim our love for A.Maze by People of the Labyrinths (preferring the eau de toilette concentration). There will be a new signature Aedes fragrance soon but that’s all I can tell you right now.
Takashimaya Tea Room. Yes, even though the store has a newly arranged fragrance department (that’s now on the first floor), there was absolutely nothing perfume-wise that tickled our fancy. So down we went to drown our grief in tea. I’m not a regular tea room goer but I can tell you it’s the best. We blissfully sipped the signature rose petals tea and lunched on the most delicious grilled Gruyere cheese bread and salad with the most amazing dressing. A gustatory highlight for sure!
Fragrance Highlights
Infusion d’Iris by Prada. Due in stores very soon, this is a nice, understated, easy-to-wear iris blend. As you may have noticed, iris is the note du jour, and, frankly, I’m a bit jaded about it. However, Infusion d’Iris is a pleasant exception. There will also be an iris scent by L’Artisan Parfumeur coming this October called Iris Pallida but I haven’t smelled it yet. I hear it’s quite good.
Vetiver Extreme by Guerlain. That one was spotted at Sephora. An earthy, smoky vetiver with substance - just the way I like it.
Yerbamate by Lorenzo Villoresi. I’m still in disbelief it took me so long to find this. A tea scent with a twist: smoky meets minty on the base of patchouli and soft spices. A perfect summer scent!
Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia by Estee Lauder. This was a big surprise for both of us. A review to come soon. For now I’ll just tell you that it’s very, very good.
Fragrance Letdowns
Vivara by Pucci. The bottle is the only appealing thing about it. For a reissue of the classic, it’s a bit of a joke. No sight of anything remotely chypre - a transparent aquatic floral instead. Shame, shame.
Guerlain Ouds. I can call this nothing but a big, fat mistake. Had there not been enough Guerlains for me to revel in, I’d never have forgiven this mishap. First of all, these are supposed to be ouds (think Montale ouds) but there’s nothing oud-like about them - a complete lack of character, staying power, and appeal. Gone in less than 10 minutes.
Numerous Light Blue clones that I don’t find necessary to even list here.
Other Fun Shops To Visit Just For The Fun Of It
Space NK in Soho. The newly opened U.K. apothecary in a contemporary, minimalist style with a few European skincare lines but mostly familiar Sephora stock. We smelled all the Space NK fragrances and found nothing too exciting.
Le Labo in Soho. Since we were both very familiar with the line and its fragrances, we left rather underwhelmed. An interesting, industrial style lab of a shop that seemed to lack a certain flair.
Lafco in Soho. The shop is gorgeous and has the entire Santa Maria Novella collection.
Tom Ford boutique on Madison. Seemingly intimidating, the shop houses the coolest display of the new Tom Ford private collection fragrances as well as the charming sales lady who made us feel very welcome in that posh world of Tom Ford.
Henri Bendel’s on Fifth. Despite its array of niche fragrances, the highlight of the fragrance department is the L’Artisan boutique in the adjacent room. A true eye candy.
That’s about it. I should also mention that meeting Miss Colombina and her lovely family was the biggest highlight of my trip. I could fly there any time just to be in her fragrant company and play with her numerous perfumes. She’s truly a rock star!
Images: perfume fanatics at the Guerlain counter at Bergdorf Goodman and Aedes de Venustas.
July 18th, 2007
Parfum D’Empire, known for its perfumes as odes to historic events or characters, will launch three new fragrances in September: Osmanthus Interdite (Forbidden Osmanthus) inspired by the Chinese empire, blending osmanthus and green tea with a hint of leather; Fougere Bengale (Bengal Fern), “a fragrance of mosses and hay warmed up with the mouthwatering allure of gingerbread… a veritable tiger hunt in Queen Victoria’s India”; Equistrius, an homage to horses, sacred to the ancient Romans, “an ambry-woody fragrance built around an iris and ambrette-butter accord shaded with accents of sandalwood and soupcon of chocolate” (Osmoz.com). I’m particularly excited about the horse scent, believe it or not. I bet it’ll be really good, considering how much I love Cuir Ottoman (one of the best, “raw” leathers ever). Iris seems to be the note du jour - what will be next?
June 24th, 2007
In the past few years, I’ve gotten quite accustomed to seeing chocolate as a perfume note. Actually, accustomed to the point of being leery of any perfume featuring the note. I suppose you can say I’m one of those people who prefers to apply chocolate inwardly as opposed to outwardly. Chocolate can smell all right but it sure tastes much better! Nevertheless, the news of Iris Ganache, the new Guerlain from the L’Art et la Matiere collection, produced a jubilant reaction: being a huge fan of all the previous editions (Bois d’Armenie, Cuir Beluga, Angelique Noire, and Rose Barbare), I chose to close my eyes on the chocolate and focus on the iris instead.
Turns out, only seeing the iris isn’t quite possible. Iris Ganache is exactly what the folks at Osmoz.com described it as: “an iris butter worked like a ganache cream for pastry”. Iris and heavy cream/chocolate blend - who would have thought this could possibly work. Well, it does and then some. Iris Ganache is just as much about chocolate cream as it is about iris. The two are inseparable. Its outward application is equivalent to what it would do in your mouth - it instantly melds with skin in a most caressing way. Iris Ganache is a perfect blend of powdery and creamy. It intensely reminds me of my other Guerlain favorite, Apres l’Ondee - a gourmand version of it. I marvel at this similarity for two reasons: 1) both scents are years apart; 2) Iris Ganache is as Guerlain-like as can be. I’ve been living off of my sample for a few days now and will absolutely want to get my hands on the bottle.
Iris Ganache features the notes of bergamot, cinnamon, white chocolate, iris butter, patchouli, cedar, amber, vanilla, musks. It can be purchased at Bergdorf Goodman in New York as well as the Guerlain flagship store in Paris.
P.S. As a side note, I’ve come up with two more reasons to love Iris Ganache: 1) it is gourmand and it is good! 2) the juice is pink, and I can’t stop admiring this fact.
Image source: osmoz.com
June 22nd, 2007
Chamade Pour Homme was initially released in 1999 as a limited edition fragrance. I don’t have any recollection of such a thing, so the news of Chamade Pour Homme being released this year came as a total surprise. The scent is now part of the exclusive Les Parisiennes collection available at the Guerlain flagship store in Paris (whether it will be available at the Guerlain counter at Bergrdorf Goodman in New York remains to be seen). I’ve always admired the original Chamade for women. I say “admired” implying certain detachment for no other reason than I feel it’s one of those fragrances that requires particular presentation - be it appearance, demeanor, pose, a state of mind or a certain glow. In other words, I can’t just simply wear it. I need to possess that something to pull it off. It might sound strange but it is the case with select few perfumes. Chamade is an unbelievably gorgeous floral chypre - a powdery, vanillic bouquet of hyacinth, rose, and ylang ylang. The name symbolizes the fast beating of the heart which the women’s version fulfills on all the way. Does my heart go wild on Chamade Pour Homme?
The answer to that question is simply this: it very well could. It has that potential. However, in this case, I’m not required to possess that certain something to pull it off. Quite on the contrary, I feel like the fragrance needs some supplementation of character. First of all, Chamade Pour Homme is not just a men’s version of Chamade. In spite of featuring hyacinth, it has close to nothing in common with its partner and pretty much stands on its own. Well, it would have had Dior not released Fahrenheit - I find a rather distinct resemblance. Chamade Pour Homme is a somewhat reserved, tame version of Fahrenheit. It opens up with peppery violet that’s almost instantly joined by rather faint hyacinth and quite a bit of nutmeg. I like the nutmeg part as it gives the scent an appealing dusty quality. After that, it’s pretty much me wanting for more action and not much happening. I really do like Chamade Pour Homme but it’s just somewhat linear? Watered down? Dull? I’m not sure which it is but it’s clearly not quite Guerlain-like. I keep thinking it’s a lot like the drydown of Fahrenheit, perhaps just a bit softer. I’m laughing at myself for writing so much about a scent that doesn’t thrill me. It’s like I keep giving it a chance to get my heart racing but, sadly, my heart remains still.
Chamade Pour Homme features the notes of bergamot, black pepper, violet, hyacinth, nutmeg, precious woods, vetiver, leather.
Image source: madame.lefigaro.fr
June 13th, 2007
Just as I thought I was all lemming-free, here comes the rain - the new Quand Vient La Pluie (When The Rain Comes) by Guerlain. According to Osmoz.com, it’s composed as a “prose poem”, “a fresh, powdery-ambry melody built around heliotrope and violet, with nuances of rosemary, praline and sambac jasmine”. Quite a versatile array of notes, and I’m a bit sceptical on that praline note. The perfumer is Thierry Wasser (Dior Addict, Lancome Hypnose as well as Iris Ganache, another new release by Guerlain), and the bottle is “the shape of a raindrop set upside-down on a base etched with the veins of a leaf” (the picture doesn’t really do it justice, it seems). Available at Maison Guerlain - whether it’ll arrive in the U.S., I’m not sure.
June 11th, 2007
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