Posts filed under 'Featured Shops'

The Perfume House: A Love Story. Part 1 - The Fragrances

By Donna Hathaway

This is a story about one special place, which was made possible by some very special people. It is an unassuming little shop to the untrained eye, housed in a whimsical older building on a busy street, easy to pass on the way to bigger and brighter things. But if one takes the time to linger for a moment and peer inside, a world unto itself will be revealed, a magical kingdom evoking the Old World of charm and elegance, of beauty appreciated and great care taken. It is the world of The Perfume House and its owners, the delightful gentleman Chris Tsefalas and his lovely wife Christina. Others have told their story in many different ways, but this is my personal tribute to what this place has meant to me over the years.

When I say that Mr. Tsefalas is a Gentleman I mean that in the truest sense of the word. He is courtly, charming, warm, gregarious, and the most civilized human being I have ever met in my life. He spent a lifetime learning from the great perfumers of the world before deciding to open his own perfume shop so he could share his love for perfume with others. He was trained by the finest masters and is himself a Nose with a capital “N”, a title bestowed only upon those few who must pass a rigorous test to acquire it. (Can you recite all the major notes of any perfume, even one you have never smelled before, before the droplets sprayed in the air hit the floor? He can.)

The Perfume House in Portland, Oregon opened its doors in the early 1980s. I luckily discovered it very quickly due to the chance reading of a story in the newspaper. My sister and I were curious, so we went down there to see what all the excitement was about, as the story had made it sound quite intriguing, and we both liked fragrance anyway. Well, the upshot of it was that we spent about five hours there the first day, and received a head-spinning education in fine perfumery. I have returned there often over the years, and I never leave without learning something new about the art and history of perfume. (Chris is also a master storyteller, and he can weave a romantic perfume tale like no one else.) I learned of great houses and obscure essences, of near-mythical rare perfumes and great standards of the perfumer’s art. Knowing virtually nothing about perfume except that I adored it, I allowed myself to be guided toward that which would suit me best. I remember that one of my very first purchases was a lovely Fragonard. (Who knows much about this house in the U.S.? It is one of the great French houses of the highest quality, but they do not spend their capital on advertising.)

Sometimes it is best to simply place yourself in the hands of an expert who knows much more than you ever will, and in this case I was glad to do it. I discovered Quartz by Molyneux and Annick Goutal Gardenia Passion, and the Jean LaPorte line; I found that the Caron Muguet de Bonheur was exponentially better than any other Muguet fragrance I had ever smelled, and that the fragrances from the House of Caron and I got along very well indeed. (The Perfume House is the only West Coast source of the unsurpassed Caron face powders; famous Hollywood makeup artists order it from the shop when nothing else will do.) There is a Caron “shrine” in the store that includes several of the crystal urns like the ones in the Paris Caron boutique. Almost any Caron perfume in commerce today can be had here, either from stock or by special order. All things Caron are cherished here, as the house represents quality at the very highest level. On a recent visit there was a small tester vial of 2003’s Tubèreuse, which is one of the exclusive urn perfumes available only in the Caron boutiques. I thought I would faint with sheer pleasure when I smelled it. It is sublimely radiant yet quiet, the conceptual opposite of the better-known Fracas by Piguet, and lacking the stemmy greenness of Frederic Malle’s wonderful Carnal Flower with that one’s chilly opening notes. It is the tuberose equivalent my other favorite Caron soliflore, Muguet de Bonheur; refined, serene and opulent without being overly lush. If the store does not start carrying this one soon I will need a ticket to Paris.

Most of all I found the perfume house I loved the best: Jean Patou. When the store first opened, one of the big introductions was the release of the Jean Patou Ma Collection, a reissue of twelve Patou perfumes from the past as a celebration of the house. Not only was the twelve-bottle miniature coffret with a story booklet available, but all twelve were also sold in large single bottles. Of course everyone knows about Joy and 1000, the twin flagships of Patou and deservedly so; what they do not know is how many fine perfumes came out of the house and have been discontinued. I fell in love with most of them right away; the deep, woody Normandie, named after an ocean liner, the bright and effervescent Cocktail, the saucy Caline, the languorous Colony with its pineapple decadence, the heartbreakingly lovely Momênt Suprème, and the stunningly romantic floral Amour Amour. But for me, one stood apart from all the others, and does so to this day; Vacances from 1936, brought back to life once more in all its breathtaking green beauty. Just a short time ago Chris told me it is considered by many to be the finest Green Floral of all time, and I cannot agree more. This ethereal fantasy of hyacinth, lilac and mimosa with fresh grassy notes is the epitome of simplicity yet is sophisticated as well, and it is a memory perfume that can evoke a deep emotional response for many. Alas, this is gone now, as are the others that briefly reappeared in that perfume Brigadoon and soon went away again. I can only console myself with the knowledge that newer Patou masterpieces such as the wonderfully intense Sublime are also of the very best quality available today.

Over the years I have experienced some very special fragrances that I never bought, but I was glad for the experience. Some were out of the range of my budget, such as JAR Golconda in one of its very few appearances outside a JAR boutique. I will never forget its stunning clove-carnation power. Then there is the amazing floral Amouage Gold for women, the first release of the House of Amouage. My sister fell hopelessly in love with this one, a truly great fragrance imbued with rare and precious Silver Frankincense, and she wants no other. I have to agree that it is one of the best things I have ever smelled though my favorite of the line was the sadly discontinued chypre Ubar, which is no longer made due to the difficulty in procuring the best ingredients for it; the house’s standards are very high. Other perfumes were too rare and not for sale, such as vintage Rochas Femme, or wonderful but not really my style, such as Schiaparelli Shocking, but at least I got to smell them at the time. I cannot remember everything about the hundreds I have tried, except that I loved them all. Even those I would not wear myself I was taught to appreciate for their own qualities, as works of highest achievement by the perfumers who made them.

There is a secret treasure trove as well – the Private Reserve, a collection of alcohol-free pure perfumes made by the finest noses in France, and available only by appointment. Once you have bought one of them you may order any of the line directly from France as long as you do it within one year of the first purchase. I have tried only two of these and I cannot even begin to tell you how good they are. There are five soliflores (rose, jasmine, muguet, gardenia and tuberose) and the rest are masterful blends. I have experienced the rose and tuberose, and if I could go without food or rent to buy these I would gladly do so. (I am almost afraid to try the others!) Because there is no alcohol, they are very stable and do not change like more diluted formulations do. I recently brought home some cotton soaked with the Private Reserve tuberose essence and put it on my bedside table to scent my room. Two weeks later, it still smelled exactly the same as it did straight out of the bottle. I will leave it there until it fades, which should take a long time.

Of all the rarities, one of the most memorable was the release of several perfumes once exclusive to the Czars of Russia; manufactured in France, they were of the highest quality and could not be bought by ordinary Russians. The original formulas were not lost in the Russian Revolution, as they were in France, and they were briefly re-created in a limited edition some years ago. I do not recall the names of all of them, but two have stayed with me to this day. Anna Karenina was an indescribably romantic floral, unique in that it was composed of dried flowers instead of fresh. That sounds odd I know, but it was rich and powerful and made me think of a heavy silk brocade curtain at an opera house. The other one was a name I could not spell or pronounce but translated as something like “Russian Fantasy.” As soon as I smelled it, I was transported to a verdant forest surrounded by songbirds and murmuring waters. It was an out-of-body experience. This was the one I bought, but of course it is no longer available. If I close my eyes I can still remember how it made me feel. This was truly perfume as Art, and I owe it all to one man’s dream.

COMING SOON: Part Two: The Stories, to be published over at the Perfume-Smellin’ Things blog next week, so please visit!

Image source: adclassix.com, vintageads4u.com, ebay.com, amouage.com

19 comments July 31st, 2007

New York Sniffathon

As many of you may know by now, last weekend was the Great New York Sniffathon - Miss Aromascope went to visit Miss Colombina from Perfume-Smellin’ Things. Sadly, we didn’t make the news for the people of New York do not find such affairs worth noticing. For us, however, it was a big thing. New York is possibly the only city in the U.S. with such ample perfume offerings, and, needless to say, for a perfume fanatic the experience is akin to that of raiding a toy store for a child. There was much sniffing, grabbing things off the shelves, clapping hands, leaping for joy, staring into space pondering financial future, bemoaning the lack of available arm space, and a general state of emotional confusion. In short, we had a blast! At the end of it, a couple of conclusions were mutually drawn: 1) sniffing is a bit challenging in super humid weather; 2) despite the abundance, there was not a whole lot of novelty. To clarify the second point, novelty in this case implies the lack of new releases at this particular time combined with our blasé state of mind (and nose). But enough of this. Miss Colombina has written a superb detailed report on her blog, and I’ll give you a more concise version, pointing out the highlights and letdowns.

Top Highlights


For a Guerlain maniac as myself, the beautiful Guerlain counter at Bergdorf Goodman seemed like my second home. My beloved Iris Ganache is already there, Vol de Nuit parfum is still my lemming, and Cuir Beluga chose to spend the rest of its life with me. On the upcoming addition list this fall is the former travel exclusive Vetiver Pour Elle that will grace the famous bee bottle, and Cologne 68 that will join the Bergdorf Goodman selection. There will be two new releases: Quand Vient La Pluie (which will be quite pricey), and Spiritueuse Double Vanille, an impressive vanilla scent a sample of which is in my possession to be scrutinized and reviewed in the near future. What can I say, I’m all a-twitter!

Barney’s New York Frederic Malle section. After a lively and quite enlightening chat with Luis (whom you must see at least once in your life), we left in physical pain over having to keep our mouths shut until further notice. If you haven’t figured it out already, I’m talking about a new release that’s due this September - a masculine scent that’s supposed to sweep us off our feet. Meanwhile, the U.S. version of French Lover that will be called Bois d’Orage will actually be slightly different - heavier on musk, we hear. In addition, there will be a new floral scent next year. An exciting piece of info for those living in Chicago and nearby - there will be a Frederic Malle counter at the Chicago Barney’s this fall. Yippee!

Aedes de Venustas. If you love perfume and have been to New York but not to Aedes, you don’t really love perfume. The shop is a must visit for the experience will be unforgettable. Although we were more enchanted by the lovely Karl than actual sniffing, a few fragrances were fun to try: the new Passion Bresil and Secret Afrique by Esteban, both quite nice for the price; the new Parfums 06130 - Feuille de Reglisse, Lentisque, and Lierre Rose (reviews coming soon). We paid tribute to the exorbitant beauty of Yu by Mane (a limited edition scent that costs $5,000) but chose to proclaim our love for A.Maze by People of the Labyrinths (preferring the eau de toilette concentration). There will be a new signature Aedes fragrance soon but that’s all I can tell you right now.

Takashimaya Tea Room. Yes, even though the store has a newly arranged fragrance department (that’s now on the first floor), there was absolutely nothing perfume-wise that tickled our fancy. So down we went to drown our grief in tea. I’m not a regular tea room goer but I can tell you it’s the best. We blissfully sipped the signature rose petals tea and lunched on the most delicious grilled Gruyere cheese bread and salad with the most amazing dressing. A gustatory highlight for sure!

Fragrance Highlights

Infusion d’Iris by Prada. Due in stores very soon, this is a nice, understated, easy-to-wear iris blend. As you may have noticed, iris is the note du jour, and, frankly, I’m a bit jaded about it. However, Infusion d’Iris is a pleasant exception. There will also be an iris scent by L’Artisan Parfumeur coming this October called Iris Pallida but I haven’t smelled it yet. I hear it’s quite good.

Vetiver Extreme by Guerlain. That one was spotted at Sephora. An earthy, smoky vetiver with substance - just the way I like it.

Yerbamate by Lorenzo Villoresi. I’m still in disbelief it took me so long to find this. A tea scent with a twist: smoky meets minty on the base of patchouli and soft spices. A perfect summer scent!

Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia by Estee Lauder. This was a big surprise for both of us. A review to come soon. For now I’ll just tell you that it’s very, very good.

Fragrance Letdowns

Vivara by Pucci. The bottle is the only appealing thing about it. For a reissue of the classic, it’s a bit of a joke. No sight of anything remotely chypre - a transparent aquatic floral instead. Shame, shame.

Guerlain Ouds. I can call this nothing but a big, fat mistake. Had there not been enough Guerlains for me to revel in, I’d never have forgiven this mishap. First of all, these are supposed to be ouds (think Montale ouds) but there’s nothing oud-like about them - a complete lack of character, staying power, and appeal. Gone in less than 10 minutes.

Numerous Light Blue clones that I don’t find necessary to even list here.

Other Fun Shops To Visit Just For The Fun Of It

Space NK in Soho. The newly opened U.K. apothecary in a contemporary, minimalist style with a few European skincare lines but mostly familiar Sephora stock. We smelled all the Space NK fragrances and found nothing too exciting.

Le Labo in Soho. Since we were both very familiar with the line and its fragrances, we left rather underwhelmed. An interesting, industrial style lab of a shop that seemed to lack a certain flair.

Lafco in Soho. The shop is gorgeous and has the entire Santa Maria Novella collection.

Tom Ford boutique on Madison. Seemingly intimidating, the shop houses the coolest display of the new Tom Ford private collection fragrances as well as the charming sales lady who made us feel very welcome in that posh world of Tom Ford.

Henri Bendel’s on Fifth. Despite its array of niche fragrances, the highlight of the fragrance department is the L’Artisan boutique in the adjacent room. A true eye candy.

That’s about it. I should also mention that meeting Miss Colombina and her lovely family was the biggest highlight of my trip. I could fly there any time just to be in her fragrant company and play with her numerous perfumes. She’s truly a rock star!

Images: perfume fanatics at the Guerlain counter at Bergdorf Goodman and Aedes de Venustas.

27 comments July 18th, 2007

Ormonde Jayne Comes to The U.S.

Exciting news from Ormonde Jayne: in November, the brand will launch its new website in the USA with next day delivery for all its American admirers. Also new in November, Orris Noir will be available in three different ways: Parfum d’Or Naturel, Essential Bathing Oil, and Large Scented Candle. Parfum d’Or Naturel is made of natural sugars mixed with perfume and gold, and is alcohol-free. Essential Bathing Oil has been reformulated and is now free of mineral oils, artificial colors, sulphates, petrochemicals, and parabens. It also contains orchid oil extract, vitamin E, and 15% pure essence. I’m super thrilled about this and am about to go put on some Orris Noir.

Image source: ormondejayne.com

6 comments June 6th, 2007

B-Glowing: Interview with Lisa James

Lisa JamesYou might have noticed, I like to do Featured Shops posts once in a while as I find it fascinating to get to know the people behind the business, especially fragrance etailers. You might also have noticed, there’s a Shopping page on this blog where you can find listings of beauty/fragrance boutiques nationwide, by state. Part of the reason I decided to create the page was an incident I had once when I lived in Minnesota. One time I was doing an onilne search for Fragonard retailers and quite accidentally came across a shop in the Twin Cities that carried the line. I drove there one sunny May afternoon, unsure of what to expect. Great was my surprise when I discovered an amazing little boutique with tons of niche, hard to find lines. I had no idea such a shop existed, and I can guarantee it’s the only shop in the entire state of Minnesota that carries such assortment. To make a long story short, I hope the Shopping page will help you find shops like that in your area!

Today’s featured shop is B-glowing, an online boutique for skincare/beauty/fragrance. A brief interview with its founder, Lisa James:

1. How did B-glowing come about? What was your career before that?

I worked in television advertising helping produce tv ads for advertisers like Nike, Coke for about 15 years. I always knew I wanted to work for myself. I’ve been a beauty junkie my entire life and it made sense to do what I love while sharing my passion. On-line was the obvious because I wanted to start the company while I still worked in advertising. I managed both jobs for about 2 years before resigning and working for b-glowing full time this past January.

2. How do you select the lines you carry?

I look for superior performance and great packaging helps. Mostly it is just a gut feeling that tells me whether it fits into the b-glowing portfolio. It should compliment a beauty catalog that is fun and hip, yet still sophisticated.

3. What are your favorite products?

At the moment, Yosh Ginger Ciao, Crazylibellule & The Poppies Blue Orchidee, LaLicious (I love every product and scent!) and of course Apivita is a great staple.

4. What are your hobbies/interests?

I love traveling! My favorite trip was a few years ago when I spent 2 weeks in Fiji . I love to get away as much as possible, even if it’s just a 3 day weekend down in Sun River , Oregon . When I’m not traveling I love hanging out with my boyfriend, dog and friends eating great food and drinking great wine! Oregon has a bounty of amazing restaurants and wineries.

5. Does B-glowing have a brick & mortar store?

Not at the moment. We’re undecided whether we want to move in that direction. We’ll decide in the next couple years. If we do build a brick and mortar, of course Portland will have to be our flagship store.

6. What are your current best-selling perfumes?

Kai, La Maison de la Vanille, Crazylibellule and L’Aromarine.

7. What lines that you carry are under-appreciated, in your opinion?

Tisserand Aromatherapy from the UK . It’s super affordable and intensely rich in essential oils. Also, Belli. Their eye gel and body lotion are some of the best I’ve used. The bonus is they are 100% natural, but you’d never know it because they are super effective beauty products.

8. Do you have favorite perfumes besides the ones you carry? What are they?

Yes, Jo Malone! I can’t get enough of them. My absolute favorite is French Lime & Blossom. The scent is intoxicating to me.

4 comments October 11th, 2006

L’Artisan Parfumeur Event

Francois DuquesneL’Artisan Parfumeur is a niche French perfume house that’s been around since 1976. It “proposes an individual approach to fragrances for those who are looking for their personal perfume, regardless of trends” and the “fragrances are inspired by nature and familiar scents found in the sweetest corners of the memory” (Lartisanparfumeur.com). I first became familiar with the line about 3 years ago and was immediately fascinated by their one of a kind creations. Today I’d like to tell you you about an exciting L’Artisan Parfumeur event I attended last night. It took place at the Ruby Room salon-spa in Chicago that will be carrying the line from now on. I went there with a friend from Makeupalley, Lauren, who I have to thank publicly for bringing it to my attention. Since I’m quite fond of L’Artisan perfumes, it’s always exciting to see them available at different shops. This time, however, it wasn’t just that. It was also the fact that I got the opportunity to meet an owner and the U.S. president of L’Artisan, Francois Duquesne (you can see him in the picture holding a Dzongkha bottle).

As I write this post, I find it quite challenging to bring my thoughts in order simply because I’m still all aflutter over the experience. Not only did I get a chance to sniff some of the perfumes but also heard Monsieur Duquesne talk about the L’Artisan approach to perfumery - the “moment of life” concept which means capturing various olfactory moments. For instance, the famous La Chasse aux Papillons was inspired by a picture of running through the flower meadow chasing butterflies. In contrast, Mechant Loup represents the image of the Big Bad Wolf from the Little Red Riding Hood, with the notes of cedar, liquorice, hazelnut, and honey - a woodsy, smoky blend that’s quite mischievous in character (and my new favorite). Their perfumes are created in the tradition of artisanship, with much thought and dedication as well as excellent quality ingredients. I find this particularly appealing, and in spite of having my personal L’Artisan favorites, keep discovering more and more - Fleur de Narcisse being the most recent one. I got a brief chance to smell it last night, and I can just tell you, it’s out of this world gorgeous. It’s being released this November, as a limited edition of 3,000 bottles worldwide. I’ll wait to write a proper review once I get a chance to have some in my hands. Meanwhile, you can read Marina’s impressions here.

Now on to some important bits of information regarding the line. Contrary to the recent rumor regarding discontinuation of Dzing! - I personally asked Monsieur Dequesne, it is not true. Big sigh of relief! L’Artisan also plans to open their signature shop in Chicago next year - very excited about that! Dzongkha, that’s to be released in October, is now available for pre-orders at Ruby Room as well as Barney’s.

In conclusion, I’d like to share with you some of my L’Artisan favorites: Dzing!, Bois Farine, Safran Troublant, Orchidee Blanche, Oeillet Sauvage, Tea For Two, Mechant Loup, L’Eau du Navigateur. I also immensely enjoy their candles - Pour des Prunes, The et Pain d’Epices, L’Ambre (awesome for colder months!), Trefles a Quatre Fleurs. They have a superb throw and are well worth the price.

L’Artisan perfumes are available at such online shops as Aedes, Luckyscent, Beautycafe, Lusciouscargo as well as numerous shops nationwide (for more info, please check the Retailers page on the L’Artisan site).

9 comments September 15th, 2006

Aus Liebe Zum Duft: Interview with George Wuchsa

George WuchsaYou might have noticed I often mention Aus Liebe Zum Duft (For The Love of Fragrance) as a place to buy the perfumes I review here. Even though the shop is located in Germany, it’s quite popular in the U.S. amongst niche perfume aficionados. They have a great online shop (as well as a brick & mortar shop) that features some of the best/rare lines. They also have a generous sample program (samples come in spray vials, usually with extras thrown in). Today I’d like to present to you a short interview with the shop’s owner, George Wuchsa.

1. First of all, tell us a little bit about yourself. How did you decide to open a perfume shop? What was your career before that?

Besides the perfume shop I own two jewelry stores which I took over from my parents. I have worked in this business all my life. But in my spare time I have always collected fragrances. I wanted to integrate this in my shop. Seven years ago I fulfilled my desire: … aus Liebe zum Duft ! Now we have an internet presentation and in one of my jewelry shops I also offer scents and cosmetics.

2. What are your best sellers currently?

Fragrances like Alamut by Lorenzo Villoresi, the collection of the Clean perfumes and Acqua di Parma are at the moment very popular scents.

In the cosmetic section Dr.Sebagh, StriVectin and Cellex-C are some of our bestseller brands.

3. What perfumes do you love (not necessarily the ones you carry - anything)?

Some of my favourite perfumes include Ambre Precieux by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Patchouli by Mazzolari, Patchouli by Lorenzo Villoresi and Patchouli by Jalaine.

4. What are your hobbies? Do you collect anything?

Perfumes, Perfumes, Perfumes!

My private collection consists of 200-250 flacons from all over the world.

Besides that, I collect porcelain figurines from the German company Hutschenreuther.

5. Would you ever want to work with perfumers to create your own signature Aus Liebe Zum Duft fragrance?

YES. As soon as I have more time this will definitely be my next project which I have in mind.

6. What do you enjoy most about this business?

You are always searching for the Holy Grail. You always think you are in search of something new, and when you hold it in your hands, you already have something new in mind. You are always on the move. There is no standstill.

7. Your shop is quite popular amongst American perfume aficionados. What would you say is the main difference, if any, between the American and European markets/tastes?

The American people prefer sweet, floral scents. The European love a more lighter cologne, in the Italian style.

8. Please share a tip or two regarding perfume - anything that comes to mind!

It is very important to deal with the offered scents. It is very hard to understand the scents the first time you smell them. You first have to let the scents settle in your nose. It’s all about training your nose. That’s the best way to find “your” fragrance.

Wuchsa shop Shop address:

Wuchsa
Bahnhofstrasse 10
D-76646 Bruchsal
Tel.: 0049 (0) 7251 - 97 77 0
FAX.: 0049 (0) 7251 - 81 19 1
info@ausliebezumduft.de

14 comments August 9th, 2006

Beautyhabit: Interview with Teresa Mitchell

Beautyhabit1. Tell us a little bit about the people behind Beautyhabit. Who are you, and how did you decide to open Beautyhabit? What was your career before that?
I founded Beautyhabit back in 1997, deciding to open an online business at the encouragement of my then fiancée (and now husband and father of my 2 children) - he works in the tech industry and at the time, I worked in the Spa & Beauty Industry. At first I was hesitant, but after I got over learning the technical aspect, it was a lot of fun to set up! Through my college years I worked at Nordstrom in the cosmetic department and did freelance make-up work. After college - I decided to go to esthetician training and then worked in various day spas and continued with the free-lance make up artistry work. I felt it was extremely important to finish my education at UC Berkeley, even though in my heart - I knew I would be doing something in the ‘beauty’ industry. My concentration at Berkeley was in religious studies, I focused on the world’s religions and cultures.

2. Niche perfumes and beauty products is quite a unique venue. What made you select this line of business? What inspired you?
It is not that much different than being into fine wine or eclectic music. I seek out the best new and interesting products and of course a touch of the classics… Quality is what ties the assortment of brands together. I also like the idea of supporting artisan products and their creators. People, places and plants inspire me and of course I can’t resist pretty packaging!

3. Do you think the market for niche perfumes/beauty products is growing? Why?
Yes - there are always people with dreams of creating something unique and special!

4. What category of the products you carry has grown, and what gets the most interest?
Skin care is the number one category at Beautyhabit. Another fast growing category is fragrance and this is the category that gets the most interest in terms of sampling. People who are new to niche brands stumble upon our website from press mentions, searching for products etc, and honestly have not heard of 80% of the brands we stock. I feel that it is our job at Beautyhabit to introduce them to something new!! They may have heard of or seen some of the brands that we have such as Kai, Dr. Hauschka or Molton Brown… but it is really after they have placed their order and receive their sample pack, that the customer introduced to some of the more unknown jewels that they will fall in love with!

5. Would you ever want to work with perfumers to create your signature Beautyhabit scent and/or other products?
Yes, of course… everything in time!

6. Does Beautyhabit have a brick & mortar store?
Yes - we just opened a beautiful boutique in Thousand Oaks, California. It is truly stunning - lovely. I’ve attached our boutique press release along with some images for you to see! The boutique is very small and quaint with a European flare - like something you would come across wondering down a little cobblestone walkway in France. Warm chocolate browns meet cool crisp greens, rustic Italian mirrors, elaborate unique chandeliers, and an antique buffet housing a collection of Diptyque. Everyday the store is brimming with arrangements of fresh flowers with that ‘just from the garden’ look and sweet little surprises of succulents and other goodies peeking out from every nook & cranny.

The boutique stocks a very select assortment of the niche luxury brands we stock online - www.beautyhabit.com. We also have specialty items such as Tamara Jewelry, Lollia Sleepwear, Bella Muse baby onsies and Pa Pa Ya cards and journals. These items are very special to our boutique assortment and we will be expanding upon that as we move forward. We chose brands that we considered to be the best of the best for our ‘brick & mortar’ environment and we will be highlighting various beauty brands seasonally as well.

Below are just a few of the incredible brands that can be found…

Fragrance - Fifi Chachnil perfume, Parfums DelRae, Les Parfums de Rosine, be becker.eshaya, Nanadebary, L’Orientaliste

Skin Care - In Fiore, Jurlique, Rodial, Duchess Marden

Bath & Body - Jo Wood organics, Tocca, Les Bains du Marais

Home Ambiance - Agraria, the new BURN FRESH range

7. What are you personal favorites from the lines you carry? Tell us about them briefly.
Oh boy! I have to pick a few categories here…

Skin Care: Dr. Hauschka (love the facial toner and rejuvenating mask), Duchess Marden (love the rosewater), MD Skincare (alpha beta face peel pads) + so much more that I need 5 faces!

Bath & Body: Cinq Mondes (Gommage Aromatique aux Épices scrub & Huile Universelle Corps body oil…heaven), In Fiore (body balms, esp. the Dayala, heaven for Jasmine lovers), for my bath I have always loved the Aromatherapy Associates Revive Morning Bath and Shower Oil - so perfect) - okay, I know I need 5 bodies too!

Hair Care: Leonor Greyl shampoos are my personal favorites, the smells, the texture…. I also use the Christophe Robin Colorist line and his Hydratant Santal Hair Creme daily - Let’s not forget the Lucia Iraci Hydrating Leave-in Conditioner w/ Mediterranean Garden Myrtle Water - heaven for my fine hair.

Candles and Home Ambiance: I try a lot of candles and tend to come back to Diptyque (feu de bois and baies) & Tocca (Tahiti candle) - they are so chic smell amazing. I also love the new Burn Fresh Candles (rhubarb). Alora Ambiance (bimbi) and Agraria (balsam) are my favorite ’stick’ diffusers. I am also a huge fan of the Papier d’Armenie burning papers and the Juniper Ridge sachets and incense. Can I have 5 homes too? =)

Perfumes: I tend to be quite moody with fragrances - soo many factors from the weather to the occasion! Right now I am into light and fresh to beat the heat!

A few Beautyhabit gems to me:

Andrée Putman Préparation Parfumée (unique and fresh)
Cinq Mondes Eau Égyptienne (fresh and spicy)
Diptyque Eau de Lierre (fresh and green)
Fifi Chachnil Fifi Eau de Parfum (warm and yet, still fresh and girly)
Irié Wash Parfums (fresh and citrusy, love all three)
Nanadebary Green (fresh, green and a little spice)

8. What are your current best-selling perfumes?
Child Perfume
Kai Perfume

9. What lines that you carry are under-appreciated, in your opinion?
Cinq Mondes is an exclusive to Beautyhabit and so new to the US market that people have yet to fully catch on to how great the products are.

As far as fragrances go a few of my favorite brands that people tend to judge before trying are:

Les Parfums de Rosine (they think they hate roses… but still need to give this line a try)
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier (so many jewels within this line - it is so large, I think people tend to smell a few and give up)

10. What in your opinion makes Beautyhabit stand out from other etailers? What are you committed to, and what should a customer know about Beautyhabit?
We really listen to our customers and their comments, we value them. I also value our entire Beautyhabit team - I feel this is very important, as our staff is a direct reflection of Beautyhabit and they are the voice to the customer - it reflects the kind of service the customer receives. Each team member at Beautyhabit is an integral and vital part of the team. We also work closely building strong relationships with our brands, especially with product knowledge. We make sure our team has the proper training so they have all the tools they need when working hands on with the customer. I hope that some of the passion that we have for what we do comes across over the internet! I love to shop online and do so frequently - so I know how much fun it is and want our customers to feel great when they receive their box of goodies from Beautyhabit.

19 comments July 11th, 2006

Parfumerie Générale: Interview with Pierre Guillaume

Pierre GuillaumeI’m thrilled to bring you this interview with the nose behind Parfumerie Générale, Pierre Guillaume. But first, his official biography:

Pierre Guillaume was born in 1977. After studying Fine Chemistry, Pierre Guillaume joined the Laboratoire de Formulation Industrielle founded by his father, Christian. Here he worked in the Research and Development department and in particular was involved in the design of speciality products for cosmetics. Fascinated by the artistic expression of Chemistry in the form of Fine Perfumery, he enriched his traditional “Perfumer’s Organ” with a palette of varied ingredients drawn from the worlds of cosmetics and botanical research. Exploring new possibilities, he then applied the techniques and knowhow of industrial chemistry to the work of composing perfumes. Going a step further than the simple manipulation of ingredients in terms of quantity and formulation, he worked on the resulting material itself, and on the interaction of physical factors — light, temperature and ultrasound, to mention just a few. The result was Photo-affinage® or “photo-refining” which creates links between spicy and fruity notes, giving a perfume the “vibrant” character which is a sign of recognition for his creations. When he uses an unusual ingredient, this is solely for the contribution it makes to the olfactive construction of the perfume, not a simple marketing ploy. Today Pierre Guillaume has created 15 fragrances that he formulates in total creative and financial independence in his own workshops. Under the name “Parfumerie Générale,” echoing his own initials and saluting the Alternative Perfumery which he finds so inspiring, his perfumes are identified by a number so that they can be discovered free of any distinction or preconceived classification as men’s or women’s fragrances. PG by Pierre Guillaume is making its mark as an innovating spirit in the world of Perfumery, stimulating it and breaking its rules with invention yet respect. (Copyrights © Pierre Guillaume Parfumeur - February 2005. Marque déposée. N° national 05 3 345 328 www.parfumspierreguillaume.com)

1. How did Parfumerie Générale come about?

The meeting with Mr B., a Swiss businessman and major collector of art and perfumes was the deciding factor… We were introduced at a party and he fell in love with “Cozé” which at that time had been created for the exclusive use of my father and myself … I gave him a bottle and 3 weeks later he called me and dictated his first order: he had introduced the perfume to his circle of friends — businessmen and celebrities from many different fields — and they too had been instantly captivated. The following year saw the addition of female clients, as “Brûlure de Rose” and “Cuir Venenum” were created at his request… Faced with the necessity of designing packaging that didn’t resemble laboratory-type bottles, the choice of 20th century French industrial design immediately seemed to me the obvious solution, like an echo of my initials: “Parfumerie Générale” was born.

2. What is your perfume motto?

“Awakening new emotions…”

3. Are all Parfumerie Générale scents created by you?

To this day all the PGs are the result of my own work, I find it difficult to work as part of a team…However, I do intend to produce creations by young and as yet unknown perfume-makers to help them make their name: I want “Parfumerie Générale” to retain its image as an inventive and innovative company!

4. Have you had any perfume mentors?

I have just one friend in the world of perfume, that’s Francis (Kurkdjian), I also have a great fondness for the work of Alberto Morillas…

5. What are your favorite perfumes?

M7 by YSL, Miss Dior, Shalimar, Fracas……

6. Which of your creations are your favorite?

Always on to the next one …

7. Does Parfumerie Générale plan to export the line to the U.S.?

PG sells to the USA via its internet shop, we do not yet have any sales agreements in place with USA distributors, if a shop wants to work with us it has to be because they’ve fallen madly in love with our products, which is why we don’t go out looking for trade contacts: we want them to come to us.

8. Does your shop have a sample program?

All the perfumes are available in mini-bottles from the internet shop, www.boutique-parfumerie-generale.com

9. Parfumerie Générale perfumes have very unique names. How do you choose names for your creations?

The choice of a name is a difficult task, but also intellectually very stimulating, the important thing is to get across the essential elements of the story of a fragrance, the journey that it takes you on, while retaining a certain poetry and a style which reminds the public that this perfume belongs to a particular Company. Sometimes a name I have thought of has inspired the perfume: this happened with “Jasmin Prédateur” which is coming out in a few months’ time: I wanted a “feline” perfume, the image of a white tiger asleep on a bed of jasmine… revisited!

10. What piece of advice would you give to a perfume lover?

It’s about asking yourself what a perfume contributes to the development of an olfactory family - and about following your heart of course!

23 comments June 28th, 2006

Suravi Shop and Jean Pascal

Quimbaya Pour HommeQuimbaya Pour FemmeI’ve added a new category to my blog called Featured Shops. I plan to do short write-ups about perfume shops I find worth visiting and/or buying from. Today’s featured shop is Suravi, an exclusive fragrance boutique in Riverview, FL. It features such lines as Miller Harris, Amouage, Montale, Jean Pascal, Creative Universe, and more. The shop’s owner, Vijay Wadehra, has informed me that he has one of the biggest collections of Montale fragrances in the U.S. Currently, the products can be purchased directly from their temporary web site (created specifically for Basenotes members and Perfume Critic readers). A full e-commerce site is to be launched in the near future.

The shop carries three fragrances by Jean Pascal, a famous Colombian fashion designer. Quimbaya pour Homme, with notes of citrus, rosemary, thyme, violet, clove, lavender, and musk. It’s a very wearable scent that starts out with a blast of citrus and herbal notes and softens up in the drydown, with a non-offensive mix of violet, clove, and lavender. Quimbaya pour Femme has notes of tangerine, blackcurrant, pear, mango, magnolia, jasmine, and mimosa. An exotic fruity floral that starts out tangy and juicy and dries down to a tropical floral. Both Quimbayas would be perfect for someone who likes light, fresh scents. A great alternative for hot summer days, and the prices won’t break your wallet ($45 for a 3.4 oz bottle).

Image source: www.suravionline.com

4 comments June 13th, 2006


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