Performance Flunkers
August 7th, 2007
Typically, I judge perfume not only by its olfactory characteristics and lasting power. I also examine its performance: what it does on my skin, where it takes me, how much it opens up, etc. In my perfume pilgrimage, I’ve encountered quite a few exceptional scents that have had but one pesky yet substantial flaw - they failed the performance test. The most recent ones standing in shame with their heads down are the new Kelly Caleche by Hermes and Strip by Agent Provocateur. I don’t think it’d be unfair to say both project rather high expectations. Yet I find myself shaking my head in disapproval and going “tsk-tsk” every time I test them (and believe me, I’ve given them a few chances to redeem themselves).
Kelly Caleche. First of all, named after the Kelly bag and said to smell of leather. Secondly, a Caleche. Thirdly, Jean-Claude Ellena. The result: a beautiful scent, with a lush, almost fruity beginning, and smooth, creamy, floral heart (built around the notes of iris, lily of the valley, mimosa, tuberose, climbing rose). The drydown is rather disappointing: it smells simultaneously like Rose Ikebana from the Hermessence collection, with some hints of Jardin Sur Le Nil, and even Terre d’Hermes. All of these are nice scents, no doubt. But do I want to smell them again, in a brand new creation? I’d rather not. Thus, Kelly Caleche flunks the performance test on my skin - it doesn’t deliver what it promises. That also includes a complete lack of leather. At some point, in top notes, I get a faint hint of it but it’s more like a ghost hovering around in bewilderment, wondering why on earth did they kill him off.
With Strip, the situation is almost ironic. I mean, come on, the name is all about performance, right? Yet Agent Provocateur hasn’t played the game quite right this time. The scent is supposedly built around all the base notes of the popular Agent Provocateur perfume - ylang-ylang, iris, geranium, hot amber oils, vetiver, precious exotic woods, and musks “that react to your body temperature and exude from your skin to release the sexual attractant within” (agentprovocateur.com). Um, how do I say this nicely… let’s just say it did none of such things to me. When I first sprayed it on, I got soft, warm amber with a slightly dirty accord, and at that point it did get me euphoric. And then it just sort of stopped. As in, pretty much vanished from my skin. I kept waiting for some intensity (come on, Strip!), some boudoiresque action, some performance, after all. Alas, it was all but a tease without the strip part.
To sum it all up, I’m still in the state of olfactory ennui. I really hope this passes soon, and the fall season will greet us with truly exciting performance (and action!).
Image source: sybarites.org, agentprovocateur.com
Entry Filed under: New Perfumes, Perfume Reviews
25 Comments Add your own
1. violetnoirr | August 7th, 2007 at 10:25 pm
Yep! A perfume named Strip better perform. Too bad it fizzled, Ina.
And, what’s with J-C lately? His recent fragrances tend to have a common thread between them, but this Kelly Caleche sounds more like a re-play, or better yet, re-mix. Lately, I’m digging Celine’s creations more than her dad’s.
Hugs!
2. faizanjax | August 7th, 2007 at 10:38 pm
Not suprised about the Kelly fragrance. Many Ellena fragrances now smell alike. Time for Mr. Ellena to seek new inspiration methinks - I still love TdH though.
3. Leopoldo | August 8th, 2007 at 2:28 am
I’m sorry for your ennui. I get it every year, hence my pretentious phrase, scentnui (I know, I know); fortunately for me, it was out of the way by the middle of May. It must be warmth fatigue with you…
Perhaps you could have a short break in Antarctica or something?
4. Aline et Valcour | August 8th, 2007 at 4:24 am
JC Ellena and his hesperedic notes, I ‘m so not into that. Hermes deserves a real perfume, something that has more character than just another refreshing scent!
5. chayaruchama | August 8th, 2007 at 5:36 am
I haven’t sniffed Strip, but KC was awful on mmy skin; pretty in the vial, on the paper.
The drydown was so sour and unpleasant.
The reaaly lovely stuff is the new release for NM’s anniversary.
That one has extra mimosa, jasmine, rose.
Very lovely, and doesn’t disappoint.
6. chayaruchama | August 8th, 2007 at 5:38 am
I can’t type !
please forgive, no coffee yet.
7. Elle | August 8th, 2007 at 6:51 am
KC was definitely an extreme disappointment for my leather loving soul. However, I was hopeful about Strip. Sigh. Well, good news for the budget.
8. Judith | August 8th, 2007 at 7:03 am
I thought KC was the ultimate “meh” scent (a bit of an oxymoron there, I know:). And, like Elle, I was hopeful about Strip, but. . .my CC is happier now!
9. Marina | August 8th, 2007 at 8:25 am
“like a ghost hovering around in bewilderment, wondering why on earth did they kill him off” hahaha!!! Love that.
I second Faizan’s comment. Time for something new, I feel.
10. greeneyes | August 8th, 2007 at 10:17 am
Nothing is worse than when you put on a perfume in the morning, and then in the afternoon you sniff your wrist and think, “what did I put on this morning? I thought I put on X, but this smells an awful lot like Y…” I like distinction!
As for Strip…well, maybe it vanishes, just like a stripper’s clothes? Tee hee hee…
11. Ina | August 8th, 2007 at 1:51 pm
Robin, I agree on Ellena’s recent creations. Every time I smell his Bois Farine or L’Eau du Navigateur, I can’t help but wonder what happened?
12. Ina | August 8th, 2007 at 1:53 pm
Faizan, new inspiration might be the answer. The man is a genius, for sure.
13. Ina | August 8th, 2007 at 1:54 pm
Leo, scentnui! Bah! How could I forget such a brilliant word! Yes, it’s the heat for sure and a general state of unexcitedness.
14. Ina | August 8th, 2007 at 1:55 pm
Aline, I agree with you. Especially in this case when this is supposed to be another Caleche. There’s nothing of Caleche in it. Sad.
15. Ina | August 8th, 2007 at 1:55 pm
Chaya, you mean the new Prada? If yes, I agree, it’s indeed a nice change.
16. Ina | August 8th, 2007 at 1:56 pm
Elle, keep that budget for the fall.
17. Ina | August 8th, 2007 at 1:56 pm
Judith, like I said, Strip has a lot of potential but lacks what it takes to pull it off. A total bummer.
18. Ina | August 8th, 2007 at 1:57 pm
Marina, why name a perfume after a bag and kill off the leather? Makes no sense. It does smell rich, if that’s what they were trying to achieve.
19. Ina | August 8th, 2007 at 2:01 pm
Greeneyes, Strip literally lasts about 20 minutes, tops. You see, even after the clothes are gone, there’s still… a stripper left. In this case, the room is completely vacant.
20. chayaruchama | August 8th, 2007 at 3:56 pm
Well,the Prada’s OK.
It’s not ISM, but it’s nice.
No, I meant the Caleche- Fleurs de Mediterranee.
Only select NM’s have it- and they’re limited edition- whatever THAT means.
But it is seriously bewitching.
21. minette | August 8th, 2007 at 9:23 pm
i sniffed the kelly caleche on paper, and didn’t even want to try it on skin. but then, i’ve not truly, deeply loved anything j-ce has done since first. i have enjoyed his daughter’s work more, actually. and bummer about strip! i was looking forward to it, too. a tease without the strip - that’s just not fair!
22. Divalano | August 9th, 2007 at 10:41 am
I’m a big leather scent fan & very disappointed to read all these “meh” KC reviews. Bah! Even more annoying to go to Hermes site & find the promo they have up now w the whip crack noise. Oh yeah, right. Big tease! Why would they pitch it that way & cultivate that image on a scent w fleeting to no leather at all? Pishaw!
23. Ina | August 9th, 2007 at 10:54 am
Chaya, ah, yes! Forgot. I haven’t smelled it yet and wonder if my local NM has it. Must find out.
24. Ina | August 9th, 2007 at 10:56 am
Minette, I do respect J-C a lot and his approach but, like you, I want something more original.
25. Ina | August 9th, 2007 at 10:57 am
Divalano, beats me. I love that image with the whip and all. The scent is all pretty-girly and smelling rich. So contrary to the ad!
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