New York Sniffathon
As many of you may know by now, last weekend was the Great New York Sniffathon - Miss Aromascope went to visit Miss Colombina from Perfume-Smellin’ Things. Sadly, we didn’t make the news for the people of New York do not find such affairs worth noticing. For us, however, it was a big thing. New York is possibly the only city in the U.S. with such ample perfume offerings, and, needless to say, for a perfume fanatic the experience is akin to that of raiding a toy store for a child. There was much sniffing, grabbing things off the shelves, clapping hands, leaping for joy, staring into space pondering financial future, bemoaning the lack of available arm space, and a general state of emotional confusion. In short, we had a blast! At the end of it, a couple of conclusions were mutually drawn: 1) sniffing is a bit challenging in super humid weather; 2) despite the abundance, there was not a whole lot of novelty. To clarify the second point, novelty in this case implies the lack of new releases at this particular time combined with our blasé state of mind (and nose). But enough of this. Miss Colombina has written a superb detailed report on her blog, and I’ll give you a more concise version, pointing out the highlights and letdowns.
Top Highlights
For a Guerlain maniac as myself, the beautiful Guerlain counter at Bergdorf Goodman seemed like my second home. My beloved Iris Ganache is already there, Vol de Nuit parfum is still my lemming, and Cuir Beluga chose to spend the rest of its life with me. On the upcoming addition list this fall is the former travel exclusive Vetiver Pour Elle that will grace the famous bee bottle, and Cologne 68 that will join the Bergdorf Goodman selection. There will be two new releases: Quand Vient La Pluie (which will be quite pricey), and Spiritueuse Double Vanille, an impressive vanilla scent a sample of which is in my possession to be scrutinized and reviewed in the near future. What can I say, I’m all a-twitter!
Barney’s New York Frederic Malle section. After a lively and quite enlightening chat with Luis (whom you must see at least once in your life), we left in physical pain over having to keep our mouths shut until further notice. If you haven’t figured it out already, I’m talking about a new release that’s due this September - a masculine scent that’s supposed to sweep us off our feet. Meanwhile, the U.S. version of French Lover that will be called Bois d’Orage will actually be slightly different - heavier on musk, we hear. In addition, there will be a new floral scent next year. An exciting piece of info for those living in Chicago and nearby - there will be a Frederic Malle counter at the Chicago Barney’s this fall. Yippee!
Aedes de Venustas. If you love perfume and have been to New York but not to Aedes, you don’t really love perfume. The shop is a must visit for the experience will be unforgettable. Although we were more enchanted by the lovely Karl than actual sniffing, a few fragrances were fun to try: the new Passion Bresil and Secret Afrique by Esteban, both quite nice for the price; the new Parfums 06130 - Feuille de Reglisse, Lentisque, and Lierre Rose (reviews coming soon). We paid tribute to the exorbitant beauty of Yu by Mane (a limited edition scent that costs $5,000) but chose to proclaim our love for A.Maze by People of the Labyrinths (preferring the eau de toilette concentration). There will be a new signature Aedes fragrance soon but that’s all I can tell you right now.
Takashimaya Tea Room. Yes, even though the store has a newly arranged fragrance department (that’s now on the first floor), there was absolutely nothing perfume-wise that tickled our fancy. So down we went to drown our grief in tea. I’m not a regular tea room goer but I can tell you it’s the best. We blissfully sipped the signature rose petals tea and lunched on the most delicious grilled Gruyere cheese bread and salad with the most amazing dressing. A gustatory highlight for sure!
Fragrance Highlights
Infusion d’Iris by Prada. Due in stores very soon, this is a nice, understated, easy-to-wear iris blend. As you may have noticed, iris is the note du jour, and, frankly, I’m a bit jaded about it. However, Infusion d’Iris is a pleasant exception. There will also be an iris scent by L’Artisan Parfumeur coming this October called Iris Pallida but I haven’t smelled it yet. I hear it’s quite good.
Vetiver Extreme by Guerlain. That one was spotted at Sephora. An earthy, smoky vetiver with substance - just the way I like it.
Yerbamate by Lorenzo Villoresi. I’m still in disbelief it took me so long to find this. A tea scent with a twist: smoky meets minty on the base of patchouli and soft spices. A perfect summer scent!
Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia by Estee Lauder. This was a big surprise for both of us. A review to come soon. For now I’ll just tell you that it’s very, very good.
Fragrance Letdowns
Vivara by Pucci. The bottle is the only appealing thing about it. For a reissue of the classic, it’s a bit of a joke. No sight of anything remotely chypre - a transparent aquatic floral instead. Shame, shame.
Guerlain Ouds. I can call this nothing but a big, fat mistake. Had there not been enough Guerlains for me to revel in, I’d never have forgiven this mishap. First of all, these are supposed to be ouds (think Montale ouds) but there’s nothing oud-like about them - a complete lack of character, staying power, and appeal. Gone in less than 10 minutes.
Numerous Light Blue clones that I don’t find necessary to even list here.
Other Fun Shops To Visit Just For The Fun Of It
Space NK in Soho. The newly opened U.K. apothecary in a contemporary, minimalist style with a few European skincare lines but mostly familiar Sephora stock. We smelled all the Space NK fragrances and found nothing too exciting.
Le Labo in Soho. Since we were both very familiar with the line and its fragrances, we left rather underwhelmed. An interesting, industrial style lab of a shop that seemed to lack a certain flair.
Lafco in Soho. The shop is gorgeous and has the entire Santa Maria Novella collection.
Tom Ford boutique on Madison. Seemingly intimidating, the shop houses the coolest display of the new Tom Ford private collection fragrances as well as the charming sales lady who made us feel very welcome in that posh world of Tom Ford.
Henri Bendel’s on Fifth. Despite its array of niche fragrances, the highlight of the fragrance department is the L’Artisan boutique in the adjacent room. A true eye candy.
That’s about it. I should also mention that meeting Miss Colombina and her lovely family was the biggest highlight of my trip. I could fly there any time just to be in her fragrant company and play with her numerous perfumes. She’s truly a rock star!
Images: perfume fanatics at the Guerlain counter at Bergdorf Goodman and Aedes de Venustas.
27 comments July 18th, 2007