Perfumes That Unveil In Heat
June 27th, 2007
It’s hot, hot, hot in Chicago! Every year I ask myself what I can tolerate better: heat or cold. Every summer, when humidity levels reach beyond bearable, I tell myself it’s heat - it just makes me feel yucky all over. Yet each winter I practically curse through my teeth at how unbelievably unfair it is for a human being to have to live through such freezer temperatures (and wind!) So here I am today, breathing through this hot and humid Chicago June, and guess what? I can handle it. Give me heat any time over cold. This year, more than ever before, I’ve had to face the practically biting cold of the air conditioning at my work, to the point where exiting the building seems like bliss making me want to dissolve in the heat. Thus I’ve once again confirmed my utter dislike of artificial cold air and have purposely refused to have this convenient commodity turned on in my apartment on my day off. It not only worked just fine, despite sweating and puffing while doing housework, but I also discovered a fragrance that unveiled its true beauty like it never did before - Carnal Flower by Frederic Malle.
Which finally brings me to today’s topic: perfumes that reveal their true beauty only in heat. Perhaps it’s all subjective and a matter of perception but with Carnal Flower, never before did it smell like it does now. This opulent white floral with crisp, green opening and radiant, milky drydown has always appealed to me. However, it often seemed to clash with my skin - too sharp, too cloying, too cold, too unlike me. Then came the heat and polished off all the rough edges. Carnal Flower in heat is what I believe it’s meant to be - a mesmerizing, warm, opulent bouquet of tuberose, jasmine, and orange blossom. The longer it’s on my skin (and the hotter the air is), the more lavish it becomes, as if pouring out its entire soul to intoxicate me. I really wish I had a poetic talent to describe its beauty. What I find particularly appealing about Carnal Flower is that, in spite of its spell-binding, unconventional charm, it is not haughty and does not demand a certain approach. Quite on the contrary, it’s unconditionally at your disposal, giving her all…
Carnal Flower is available at Barney’s New York as well as directly from Editions de Parfums.
P.S. I recall having a similar experience last summer with Chergui by Serge Lutens - it was amazing on hot days. What other perfumes do you find smell best in heat?
Image source: giftsonline.net
Entry Filed under: Perfume Reviews
45 Comments Add your own
1. Amy K | June 27th, 2007 at 9:46 pm
Hi Ina,
I’ve never tried Carnal Flower in the heat, but now I’m going to have to dig out my sample because it sounds great! My personal favorite in the summer is Fifi EDT. I love it in the winter too, but warmth really gives it some extra oomph.
2. voyageuse imaginaire | June 27th, 2007 at 11:45 pm
Fleurs d ‘Oranger and Tubereuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens are fragrances that bloom beautifully in hot weather too.
I tested Carnal Flower last year in the spring, it was nice, great intense tuberose but a little bit too green and strong for me.
3. tmp00 | June 28th, 2007 at 12:10 am
Well, as you pointed out, Chergui is one. I bought Fumerie Turque on an oddly (for Los Angeles) humid, hot summer day and it was fantastic.
Unlike you, I rather love AC, but I don’t use it at home unless it’s really torrid, and even then just to take the edge off. I guess because I can just peel off whatever I am wearing and sit around in boxers and a t-shirt at home. Having written that however I rather like the idea that I will be able to wear cashmere and Ambre Sultan to the office in July since it will be about 40 below there..
4. tmp00 | June 28th, 2007 at 12:19 am
And as an aside- having lived in the midwest (and loved it) I’d vote for the heat. Midwest heat can be annoying- Midwest cold can kill your a$$. I’ve waited for a #10 bus in Milwaukee at 10pm in January. I’d rather have heat, thanks.
5. Flora | June 28th, 2007 at 1:02 am
Oh yes, Carnal Flower - I can’t imagine a better perfume for heat! I have some left in my sample and now I am saving it for just such a day. I can’t stand the idea of it being gone….
I adore SL Un Lys in the hot weather - its coldness loosens and reveals the softness undreneath. And Annick Goutal Gardenia Passion is just wonderful the warmer it gets. The gardenia is restrained by the oakmoss and enhanced by the orange blossom and jasmine. Its slight soapiness is so refreshing, not heavy at all.
6. carmencanada | June 28th, 2007 at 1:33 am
I’m with Voyageuse and Flora: those Lutens florals really bloom in the heat… As does his Santal de Mysore, all smoky rich dryness.
Another category that does amazingly well in the heat — which unfortunately, we haven’t been enjoying in this cool, rainy June in Paris — is chypres. Bandit loses its occasional “ashtrayness” and brings forth its floral heart. Femme (the vintage) feels like the sweat of a goddess fed on spices. Jolie Madame (again vintage) also reveals its opulence, but as Flora mentions about Gardenia Passion, the oakmoss cuts through with a bracing bitterness.
7. Bryan | June 28th, 2007 at 2:49 am
I count Carnal Flower as my Holy Grail. I tend to stockpile it for no reason other than I go through it quickly. I inevitably spray it on liberally…..perhaps too liberally….but I can’t get enough. In this Kansas City heat it’s intoxicating…just amazing. I adore it.
Iris notes tend to “bloom” in the summer on me. I adore the earthy quality that seems to bloom in the heat.
Beautiful blog. Beautiful review.
8. Leopoldo | June 28th, 2007 at 3:09 am
Well, there’s all my summer staples which I won’t go into just now, but I’ll agree with Denyse on Santal de Mysore - a fantastic hot weather ‘fume. And Santal Blanc too. In fact, all of the Lutens are surprisingly good, if applied sparingly. At least, the ones I love. Not so sure about Ambre Sultan though…
9. Nina | June 28th, 2007 at 3:57 am
Bois d’Encens is my hot weather discovery - the heat brings out all the nuances. Mind you, the way summer is going this year in the UK, I don’t think the Bois d’Encens is going to see much action…
10. Elle | June 28th, 2007 at 5:52 am
I’m currently discovering (w/ half of the perfume community it seems) the magic of Montale ouds in summer and A Maze. I also think incense scents are brilliant in summer - including NK’s power house Incense. Definitely agree w/ Carnal Flower and all the SLs that have been mentioned. I put on a tiny bit of Arabie the other day and it was truly gorgeous in the heat.
11. Lucy | June 28th, 2007 at 6:47 am
Beautifully written evocation of perfume rising in the heat and humidity, its natural theater…
Definitely trying Carnal Flower today, it is 93 and humid, but it may
be too powerfully strong for us in NYC — we nearly had a blackout yesterday and if too much CF was out there I can imagine it might push some over the edge — such as those dieting girls who faint on the train in the mornings from not having eaten breakfast…
12. chayaruchama | June 28th, 2007 at 7:06 am
VERY funny, those poor cachectic girls on the train…
I agree, many SL’s, classic florals, chypres, bloom in the heat.
I’ve been on a bender w/ La Haie Fleurie and Velvet Gardenia [ pretending I’m a Southern belle, lol], enjoying the sillage.
Neonatura Cocoon has been just heavenly, too.
[A lot like Borneo, for about 1/10th of the price.]
Today, though, the humidity makes me want to wear Osmanthe Yunnan, for its cheery, optimistic disposition, and delicacy.
It goes both ways.
Be careful out there, my friends !
13. Marina | June 28th, 2007 at 7:10 am
Absolutely, the headier the floral, the better it unfolds in the heat. I am not so lucky with amber-heavy scent like Chergui. Amber just kills me in hot weather.
I am totally with you on AC. Summer is supposed to be hot. Hrmph.
14. aliki | June 28th, 2007 at 7:20 am
I tried Bois des Iles/Chanel last winter ans was soooo disappointed. Now in summer it’s surprisingly subtile, behaving wonderfully under heat. And Marina, try Eau d’Ambre from l’Arisan parfumeur: I suppose it’s the only valuable summer amber!
15. annE | June 28th, 2007 at 8:19 am
After reading a couple of comments on the boards about wearing 10 Corso Como in the heat, I decided to give it a try. I first tried it last winter, and I could never make up my mind about it; I liked it very much, but was so dry on me that I couldn’t love it. Now all that has changed, and it’s on my FBW list. It is absolutely wearable in the heat, and its dryness keeps it from going over the top. Marvelous.
16. Judith | June 28th, 2007 at 8:36 am
I agree that Carnal Flower (and most white florals) are wonderful in the heat.
I find many incenses good in the summer, but Passage d’Enfer is my special “summer incense.” It seems boring to me in the winter, but it’s really great in the heat!
17. Kelley | June 28th, 2007 at 9:54 am
M7…M7…M7 baby! There is nothing quite like it in the heat. It seems that it’s primarily base notes and so it stays pretty close to the skin, except in the heat. Oh, how I love M7 in the heat!
18. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:21 am
Amy, oh yes! Fifi works amazing in heat, too. Must wear it soon!
19. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:22 am
Voyageuse, you’re absolutely right! I especially love Tubereuse Criminelle in heat. What is it with tuberose?
20. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:24 am
Tom, interesting about FT. It’s the ultimate fall scent for me, maybe because evokes those memories of burning leaves at home…
40 below! Yikes! I crank up our AC at work to almost 80. So glad we can control our own - the mall is f r e e z i n g.
21. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:24 am
Tom, exactly! It’s evil, bitter cold. I thought MN was bad. Chicago is even worse with all that damp air from the lake. Shudder!
22. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:25 am
Flora, ah, Un Lys! Of course! Must wear it soon.
23. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:27 am
Carmencanada, wow, what an interesting observation! I haven’t ever thought that of chypres but it makes total sense. Loved “the sweat of a goddess fed on spices”. Who can resist that?
Must dig out all my chypres pronto.
24. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:28 am
Bryan, thank you! I think I can smell you all the way from Kansas City.
So glad you love CF so much. I think from now on I’ll only wear it in summer.
25. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:29 am
Leo, Ambre Sultan almost killed me once when I applied it in summer. It’s a bit too spicy, maybe. But Santal de Mysore - that’s gotta be good. Must try soon.
26. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:31 am
Nina, I can see that with Bois d’Encens. I think lots of incense scents can seem a bit cold in chilly weather. I’ll be sure to wear BdE soon. All these great suggestions!
I spent one summer in the U.K. several years ago - lots of clouds. I don’t think I ever saw the sun, I mean, the typical summer sun.
27. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:32 am
Elle, perhaps that explains the Montale craze.
I agree, the ouds are amazing in heat. Arabie, though… hmm. Will have to try. Another fall scent for me.
28. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:33 am
Lucy, oh, one spritz is perfectly enough. I don’t even dare to do more. Go teach those girls some class.
29. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:36 am
Chaya, I’ve seen (heard?) La Haie Fleurie compared to a Cool-Aid drink (or is it Kool-Aid?) So it makes sense.
30. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:36 am
Marina, DH and I had our typical AC war last night, and he won. Only to wake up to a perfectly chilly day. Hrmph, indeed!
31. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:37 am
Aliki, absolutely agree on L’Eau d’Ambre! It’s so light and sheer, perfect for summer. Will have to experiment with Bois des Iles.
32. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:39 am
Anne, ah, that makes sense, too. It is indeed very dry and crisp. Will have to try it.
33. violetnoir | June 28th, 2007 at 10:39 am
Really? I would have thought that CF would be too stifling in hot weather.
I’ll have to take the plunge!
Hugs!
34. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:39 am
Judith, sadly, PdE does not want to work on my skin. I’ve tried so hard! I won’t go into detail what exactly it smells like but it’s pretty bad and starts with a “p”.
35. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:40 am
Kelley, yes! M7! But of course!
36. Ina | June 28th, 2007 at 10:40 am
Robin, please do take the plunge and report back!
37. Teri | June 28th, 2007 at 10:59 am
I recently, quite by accident, discovered TDC’s Jasmin de Nuit blossoms beautifuly on my skin in the extreme heat. In winter it was pleasant, but fleeting. In summer, it’s a diva! I’ve been puddling around for the last few days with some other jasmine scents (Goutal’s Le Jasmine and SL A La Nuit) and found the same happy effect in varying degrees. I’d always thought jasmine scents would be too much of a muchness in the summer, but instead, on me, they are being all they can be.
I remember AC as being a blessing on those midwestern nights when the temp never sank below 98 degrees, with humidity at 98%. But since I’ve moved to Colorado, where the heat is usually dry heat and the nights cool down beautifully, I scarcely use it all.
Give me heat over cold any day. I don’t have to shovel heat!
38. carmencanada | June 28th, 2007 at 3:56 pm
I agree with Teri about Jasmin de Nuit. I love its warm, cuddly spiciness… Jasmine was made for the heat. It’s a hot climate flower!
39. Ina | June 29th, 2007 at 12:10 am
Teri, oh, absolutely! Jasmin de Nuit is a true beauty in summer.
Ah, I know. Sometimes, on very rare occasion, it is indeed a blessing for the night.
Shovel heat! LOL!
40. Ina | June 29th, 2007 at 12:10 am
Carmencanada, “jasmine was made for the heat” - love it! So true!
41. decembergrl | July 9th, 2007 at 3:44 pm
Caron’s Narcisse Noir in hot weather is positively narcotic. But the even better thing to do is combine Narcisse Noir with Bellodgia. The hotter it is outside, the better these two grande dames smell. They are wonderful on their own, but combining them every so often on a scorching hot day (or humid sultry evening) is a truly wonderful experience.
42. Rachel | July 9th, 2007 at 3:47 pm
I tried Zagorsk today and loved it’s piney coolness in the heat… with violet and iris coming in on the breezes. Also, Terre d’Hermes is great, too, for something warmer.
43. Ina | July 9th, 2007 at 10:59 pm
Decembergrl, ooh! Just reading about it gives me goose bumps - sultry! Must try this combo.
44. Ina | July 9th, 2007 at 11:00 pm
Rachel, Zagorsk is such a winter scent for me, now you got me curious to try it in the heat! Terre d’Hermes is perfect in any weather - a true modern day classic.
45. Aromascope » Summer&hellip | July 19th, 2007 at 11:10 pm
[…] Carnal Flower by Frederic Malle is the scent I enjoy most in heat. […]
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