Featured Perfumer: Francis Kurkdjian
June 11th, 2007
There’re several perfumers whose works I adore (Olivia Giacobetti, Pierre Bourdon, Michel Roudnitska, to name a few) but there’s only one who resonates with me the most - Francis Kurkdjian. Not only is he exceptionally gifted but also quite renown for his young age - the author of such a big hit as Le Male by Jean Paul Gaultier at the mere age of 25 and the recipient of the Francois Coty Prize for Lifetime Achievement as a perfume designer. All the awards aside, Francis Kurkdjian to me is first and foremost an artist whose creations touch me on a personal level and reciprocate - I love them, and they love me back. To borrow the quote from his web site - “perfume as a work of art is a transmitted expression of intimacy”.
French of Armenian heritage, Francis Kurkdjian learned perfumery at the International Institute of Perfume, Cosmetics and Flavors and has worked at Quest International and Takasago (a leading Japanese fragrance company). In 2001, he created his own atelier of custom made perfumes. If I could ever afford to have a custom perfume made for me, he’d be my perfumer of choice (a girl can dream).
I have categorized Francis Kurkdjian’s creations into two main groups: The Glorious Rose and Something Completely Different.
The Glorious Rose: I absolutely adore what he does with the rose. In my pre-Kurkdjian years, my notion of a good rose perfume consisted of a true-to-life, straightforward, honeyed rose along the lines of the famous Bulgarian rose oil. Kurkdjian takes the rose for a total spin: Rose Barbare by Guerlain (a perfect modern day chypre!) is a rose with thorns and proud of it; Lady Vengeance by Juliette Has A Gun - a deeply sensual, intense rose; Rose de Siwa by Parfums MDCI - a radiant, glowing queen. I’m yet to try the new Ferre Rose by Gianfranco Ferre which promises to be a fruity-floral (yes, I know, but it’s Kurkdjian!) rose.
Something Completely Different: simply put, exploring new dimensions in perfume. The scents in this category are my ever so cherished Eau Noire and Cologne Blanche by Christian Dior, Isvaraya by Indult, and the burning papers Papier d’Armenie with the most soothing scent (incense, myrrh, vanilla). These fragrances have become part of my human existence (cheesy, I know, but there you have it), and I’ll never want to be without them.
Other Francis Kurkdjian’s creations include:
Iris Nobile by Acqua di Parma, 2004
Green Tea by Elizabeth Arden, 1999
Mania by Armani, 2002
Fragile by Jean Paul Gaultier, 1999
Fleur de Male by Jean Paul Gaultier, 2007
Miracle Homme by Lancome, 2001
Lily Chic by Escada, 2000
Rumeur by Lanvin, 2006
Kouros Cologne Sport by Yves Saint Laurent, 2004
Papier d’Armenie, 2006
Sillage de la Reine, 2006
Silver Shadow by Davidoff, 2005
Narciso Rodriguez For Her (co-signed with Christine Nagel), 2003
Narciso Rodriguez For Him, 2007
Image source: parfums-et-aromes.com
Entry Filed under: Featured Perfumer
13 Comments Add your own
1. Tigs | June 11th, 2007 at 10:30 pm
Great article, Ina! I love Kurkdjian, as well. (By the way, don’t mean to be petty, because I appreciate all the info here, but a pamphlet I have from Guerlain says Annick Menardo did Bois D’Armenie?) I like almost all of his stuff, and he looks so dashing! The weird thing for me is that I’ve never been able to connect with NR for her, which he co-nosed with Christine Nagel, who is one of my very favourite noses, as well. I can’t remember your impression of NR?
2. Ina | June 11th, 2007 at 10:55 pm
Tigs, shame on me! I got it mixed up with Papier d’Armenie which is what inspired Bois d’Armenie. Thanks for correcting me! I got a bit carried away there.
I do like NR quite a bit and used to have a bottle. It’s truly a trend-setter.
3. Elle | June 12th, 2007 at 6:36 am
You’re so right about the magic he can work w/ roses. Rose Barbare was the scent that first made me sit up and take notice of all the rest of his creations - rose and non-rose. Am actually quite hopeful about Ferre Rose. A genius nose and insanely gorgeous to boot. Swoon. Yes, I know I’m tragically shallow.
4. Judith | June 12th, 2007 at 8:23 am
I also am a fan of K’s roses. I am currently really loving Lady Vengeance. So I will join those who are hopeful about the Ferre.
5. Sara | June 12th, 2007 at 9:29 am
I think my favorite of his is another he did for MDCI–Enlevement au Serail. Thanks for an interesting profile on such a talented man!
6. violetnoir | June 12th, 2007 at 12:48 pm
Yeah, this dude is “bad!” And, it doesn’t hurt that he is easy on the eyes. :):)
How about the instant classic he created for MDCI, Enlevement Au Serail (#3)? Pure liquid poetry in a bottle.
Francis is running neck and neck with my babe, Michel Roudnitska, Ina. Maybe we can arrange a perfumed threesome, lol!
Hugs!
7. Ina | June 12th, 2007 at 1:16 pm
Elle, gorgeous indeed. Sigh.
8. Ina | June 12th, 2007 at 1:17 pm
Judith, I think I need a bottle of Lady Vengeance… of course now that I’ve finally made up my mind, I can’t find it on ebay.
9. Ina | June 12th, 2007 at 1:17 pm
Sara, I love that one, too! He’s a genius.
10. Ina | June 12th, 2007 at 1:18 pm
Robin, naughty you! Let’s hope nobody saw that comment. LOL! As for MDCI #3, I completely agree and love the way you put it - poetry in a bottle. Ah, must wear it soon.
11. zara | June 13th, 2007 at 3:08 pm
i was surprised to see that rumeur (2006) was his creation, i found it rather loud and disappointing…maybe i should resniff. still, his nose rules
12. Aromascope » Needle&hellip | June 14th, 2007 at 11:14 pm
[…] also add I’m enjoying Rose Barbare as my pick for yet another reason: its author is my lovely Francis (ah, I’m all a-twitter!) Rose Barbare was created in 2005 as part of the L’Art et la […]
13. Aromascope » Interv&hellip | July 30th, 2007 at 10:05 pm
[…] little while back I did a post on one of my favorite perfumers, Francis Kurkdjian. Ever since then, I’ve been on pins and needles about doing an interview with him, and I […]
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