Intriguing New Releases
June 6th, 2007
This year is proving to be quite prolific in terms of fragrance releases, and, while I’ve developed a rather sceptical attitude towards most new perfumes these days, there’re a few pleasant exceptions. Here’s a list of what I’m intrigued by and am anxious to smell:
Boudoir Sin Garden by Vivienne Westwood. From Osmoz.com: “an invitation to hide and seek in an English country garden” (*raised eyebrows*). I quite like the original Boudoir, so I’m hoping Sin Garden will appeal as well. I also quite like the notes, with the exception of the first two: freesia, pink pepper, aldehydes, violet, heliotrope, orris, amber, sandalwood, oakmoss, musk.
M Moi by Mauboussin. Saffron, ivy, currant, orange blossom, narcissus, ambrette, cashmere wood, white ambe, musk. I used to wear the original Mauboussin (which is highly underrated, by the way) - a very wearable, sophisticated patchouli scent. M Moi sounds like it has good potential. My prediction is it won’t be widely distributed in the U.S. (online discounters will come to rescue, no doubt).
Matthew Williamson Collection: Jasmin Sambac, Incense, Lotus, Warm Sand. Matthew Williamson has already sent us over the moon once with the original Incense, then smashed us on the ground with its discontinuation, then smashed us again with the arid Matthew Williamson perfume. What will it do now, with all four? I’m hoping at least Incense and Warm Sand will be noteworthy.
First Love by Van Cleef & Arpels. The classic First perfume was created by Jean-Claude Ellena, and the perfumer of First Love is Christophe Raynaud. Osmanthus, mandarin, peony, ylang-ylang, orchid, amber, vanilla, patchouli - it doesn’t really sound like me but I’m still intrigued, perhaps due to my appreciation of First. I hear it’s similar to (shudder) Flowerbomb. Please spare me.
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir by Christian Dior. I love, love, love the original Eau Sauvage! Anything good is better with “cuir” - OK, maybe not always but I can still hope. This version is said to be spicier, with more cedar, and “an ambery leather accord that is “masculine but not animalic” (Osmoz.com) Notes: lemon, hedione, herbs, cedar, chypre accord, amber, leather. Fraicheur Cuir will be a limited edition scent.
Vivara by Pucci: the relaunch of the classic 1966 chypre. I’m especially intrigued by the “more modern chypre” statement. Chypre, you say? It takes guts to make one these days, and I truly hope Vivara will stay true to its classic character. Needless to say, the bottle is beyond gorgeous. Notes: galbanum, bergamot, amaretto accord, jasmine, orange blossom, narcissus, iris, vetiver, patchouli.
What new releases tickle your fancy?
Entry Filed under: New Perfumes, Spotted
13 Comments Add your own
1. Elle | June 7th, 2007 at 6:22 am
Sorry, am holding a grudge against MW and am not sure I can get past it. Apart from having d/ced MWI and put out that insultingly sweet floral, he now goes the popular new route of multiple simultaneous releases (quantity over quality, Matthew!) and names one Incense. Hello! Amnesia, Matthew? You’ve done that. You just drew a complete blank in trying to think of some other name? I don’t want some new insipid version of incense. String of expletives deleted, I want the original! You’ve got the formula, you can surely get the ingredients…bring it back!
Have real hopes for Vivara, but I love the original and hope they don’t change it too much.
The color of the First Love bottle and the name are not inspiring much hope in me that I’ll love it.
But Eau Savage Fraicheur Cuir *does* inspire hope. You’re so right - a little cuir can almost always make anything better.
2. March | June 7th, 2007 at 6:32 am
Hey, Ina — I smelled three of these on my UK trip. The Sin Garden was IMHO extremely generic — a fruity-floral shadow of Boudoir (BTW that was also the first time I’d smelled Boudoir and I thought it was stunning.) Sin Garden would be right at home at Macy’s — but the bottle is gorgeous.
The MWs I smelled at the airport. The incense is … fine … sort of like the Encens Mystic Libellule sticks (that’s the closest incense I can think of) but I didn’t buy it, and I like incense. The Sand was awful (sour musk?). I gave up without smelling the other two.
3. Marina | June 7th, 2007 at 7:32 am
M Moi sounds like it has potential!
4. Patty | June 7th, 2007 at 12:37 pm
The Vivari from Pucci. Not on the notes, just becaues it *better* be great!
5. Ina | June 7th, 2007 at 8:47 pm
Elle, LOL! But I have to agree. Yes, First Love is probably too heavy on vanilla.
6. Ina | June 7th, 2007 at 8:49 pm
March, ah, I figured someone would have tried these. Not surprised about Boudoir. Scratching Warm Sand off the list. But still curious about MW Incense.
7. Ina | June 7th, 2007 at 8:49 pm
Marina, it does! I hope it’s good.
8. Ina | June 7th, 2007 at 8:50 pm
Patty, my sentiments exactly! I just can’t wait to see what they’ve done with the chypre.
9. March | June 8th, 2007 at 6:30 am
To be fair, the duty-free must have been 90 degrees, and obviously I was disappointed (although not surprised) that it wasn’t more like the original MW Incense. It was very linear (today’s topic!) Not vanillic, not woody. But yes. If that bottle were sitting over at Nordstrom instead of the drecky MW that’s there now, I’d probably buy it. I don’t like those bottles though — they should be pretty, but somehow to me they just look insipid.
10. March | June 8th, 2007 at 6:31 am
PS I’m excited by the M (I love saffron) and the Eau Sauvage, which makes my mouth water.
11. Lauren | June 8th, 2007 at 1:38 pm
Hi Ina! I’m finally back in Chicago and happy to hear about your L’Artisan job! I totally forgot about that store until someone on MUA mentioned it today…..sad to have missed the basenotes event.
But my point in posting today is about First Love! I got a few samples of this while living in Rome and loved wearing it. I didn’t buy a bottle though because I figured it would be as easy to find here in the US as it was in Italy! Turns out that was not the case at all. I have been hoarding my lone remaining sample spray but after all this time I am worried that it will seem too sweet and unidimensional in the drydown to keep my interest. Where will it be sold here in the US?
12. Ina | June 9th, 2007 at 9:47 pm
March, I won’t go out of my way to sniff them then but keep on my Curious To Try list.
13. Ina | June 9th, 2007 at 9:48 pm
Hi, Lauren! You should come to our shop! It’s so much fun.
As for First Love, it really isn’t a new release then. But good to know you liked it, although now you say it might be sweet. Hmm. Still curious to try. I’m not sure where it’ll be sold here but I’ve already seen some on ebay.
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