Perfume Review: Courtesan By Worth

June 4th, 2007

Courtesan by Worth came out in 2005 following the relaunch of the the vintage gem Je Reviens by the house of Worth. It was created by Pierre Bourdon “to recreate the spirit and tradition of Parisian Courtesans of old.” March at Perfume Posse wrote an excellent review of Courtesan, and it’s thanks to her I’ve had the opportunity to smell this amazing fragrance. Interestingly enough, it is also my introduction to the house of Worth - I’m now determined to try as many of the other perfumes as possible, especially Je Reviens.

Courtesan strikes me as a full spectrum contemporary scent with distinct hints of the past. It’s ultimately a fruity floral but done so right it leaves no room for criticism. The list of notes alone promises a rich, complex blend, and such it is. Courtesan seems to undergo a reverse development on my skin: its beginning is sumptuously lavish and dense while the drydown is sheer and thin. The top notes create a liquor-like feel - fruit drenched in cinnamon in the style of Fendi Theorema. The heart is marked by a luscious bouquet of flowers underlined by soft, peachy sweetness. The drydown is less complex and sort of stripped away, leaving nothing but velvety, mouth-watering fruity (think raspberry souffle!) musk that reminds me of the outwardly brutal Muscs Koublai Khan’s more angelic, lovable nature. Courtesan possesses a quiet, unobtrusive sillage reminiscent of the wafting smell of lipstick. I’m truly mesmerized by it and would like to find a way to obtain a bottle.

Courtesan features the notes of cinnamon, cardamom, clove, pineapple, red berries, bergamot, orange blossom, magnolia, jasmine, rose, sandalwood, peach, caramel, raspberry, chocolate, cocoa beans, amber, vanilla, musk. As far as I know, it’s currently availabe only in select U.K. shops such as Harrod’s, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges. For more U.K. retailer info, please check this page.

Image source: worthparis.com

Entry Filed under: New Perfumes, Perfume Reviews

21 Comments Add your own

  • 1. chayaruchama  |  June 5th, 2007 at 5:46 am

    Well, my beauty…
    I’m enamored.
    If you get any in, I’ll split with you !
    This has got my name all over it.

    Thanks for the heady review !

  • 2. Elle  |  June 5th, 2007 at 6:18 am

    I’m completely convinced I need this. Am wondering if they’re planning a US release. They probably are and it will take place exactly one day after I order it from the UK.

  • 3. Elle  |  June 5th, 2007 at 6:46 am

    Just called Worth in the UK and they said there are no immediate plans for a US release, but she implied there would be eventually. However, it doesn’t sound like it’s going to be soon enough. She also said it could be ordered directly from their website and probably would be less there than it would be at one of the retailers.

  • 4. March  |  June 5th, 2007 at 7:19 am

    Wow, what a great review! You get a different scent — I don’t get the berries, I keep looking for the berries — but I’m thrilled you like it. I’m sort of amused they make it this difficult to find, for a fragrance that (honestly) doesn’t project a particular exclusivity — and I mean that in a good way.

    I think it would be really reasonably priced — if you weren’t converting US dollars to pounds sterling. I *think* I paid something like 45 pounds (90+ dollars) but considering the stuff we buy, that’s pretty reasonable. It’d be even cheaper in Euros, I’d bet, if they sold it somewhere else outside the UK.

    I did look on eBay, from curiosity, a couple days ago and couldn’t find it anywhere, even searching worldwide. I’d say if they’ll ship it from the site, that’d probably be a good bet. I’d nag Lee to get us some, but he doesn’t live “in” London, it’s a really long trip for him, unfair to ask…

  • 5. Marina  |  June 5th, 2007 at 7:26 am

    Well, now I really can’t wait to try it!

  • 6. Leopoldo  |  June 5th, 2007 at 7:38 am

    I could get them posted out to me though, and forward em. If any readers would like a bottle, I’m sure there’s a way of sorting this….

    You have my email addy, Ina.

  • 7. Jennifer  |  June 5th, 2007 at 8:25 am

    I suppose the irony is you can get Je Revians here so easily, I remember I went through a bit of obsession with worth last summer, and went to their website and read the blurb for the scent and thinking it sounded generic and now hearing so much about it being unique is very ironic. For once the blurb for the scent was actually crappy compared to the actual scent, considering these days the blurb is often gorgeous and the scent is dull.

  • 8. AngelaS  |  June 5th, 2007 at 10:22 am

    Body chemistry is such a crapshoot! On me (thank you, March) Courtesan starts with a little stewed fruit and a pinch of spice, but quickly turns to a sultry musk. A little goes a long way, too. I’m wearing the same cardigan I did yesterday, and I still smell the musk loud and clear. I really do like it.

  • 9. violetnoir  |  June 5th, 2007 at 10:42 am

    I have wanted to try this one since I first read about it last summer. I love the melange of notes…love the perfumer…love the ’scandalous’ name. I know that one of these days I will be able to test it.

    Thank you for the great review, Ina!

    Hugs!

  • 10. Leopoldo  |  June 5th, 2007 at 11:47 am

    Update: this is avalable in my nearest town. If any of you folks want a bottle, let me know through perfumeposse… happy to help.

  • 11. winterwheat  |  June 5th, 2007 at 1:48 pm

    Great review! I love the reference to “wafting lipstick.” That’s exactly what I get from Après l’Ondée (my mother must have worn some sort of iris-scented lipstick). Your description makes Courtesan sound like a must-try. :-)

    p.s. I have a question: What are the little pictures on the l’Artisan labels? I figured out Drole de Rose and Voleur de Roses (it’s a rose), as well as Safran Troublant (crocus with saffron stamens), but I don’t know what the image is on both Jour de Fete and Tea for Two. Also, what does the ideogram on Patchouli Patch mean? (Clearly I was puzzling over these this morning, LOL! Please inform!)

  • 12. Ina  |  June 5th, 2007 at 9:21 pm

    Chaya, would love to if I ever get a hold of the bottle.

  • 13. Ina  |  June 5th, 2007 at 9:21 pm

    Elle, thanks for finding this out! I sure hope it’s available here soon.

  • 14. Ina  |  June 5th, 2007 at 9:22 pm

    March, exactly my feelings! It’s much better than you’d expect. Thank you for the sample!

  • 15. Ina  |  June 5th, 2007 at 9:23 pm

    Marina, can’t wait to hear what you think!

  • 16. Ina  |  June 5th, 2007 at 9:23 pm

    Leo, thank you! You’ve got mail. ;)

  • 17. Ina  |  June 5th, 2007 at 9:24 pm

    Jennifer, yes, the blurb does make it sound too generic, and the abundance of notes is off-putting but the scent is a whole other story, thankfully.

  • 18. Ina  |  June 5th, 2007 at 9:25 pm

    Angela, stewed fruit is exactly what I get in top notes. The drydown is all sheer and musky and ever so soft. Love it!

  • 19. Ina  |  June 5th, 2007 at 9:25 pm

    Robin, Pierre Bourdon can do no wrong. ;) Hope you get to try it soon!

  • 20. Ina  |  June 5th, 2007 at 9:28 pm

    Kris, yes, I get that from Apres l’Ondee as well.

    As for L’Artisans, those images stand for different categories the scents are divided into: Soliflores/Floral Bouquets, Spicy Orientals, Precious Woods, Blackberry Follies, Fresh Blends, etc. Jour de Fete goes under the Spice Route category, I believe. Does this make sense? You should come to the store, and I’ll show you the manual. :)

  • 21. MARGE  |  June 27th, 2007 at 8:11 pm

    how can i obtain COURTISAN

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