Perfume Review: Fleurs De Sel By Miller Harris
May 31st, 2007
Fleurs de Sel, the newest fragrance by Miller Harris, was inspired by a small village in Brittany called Batz sur Mer, a place of retreat for the perfumer Lyn Harris. “This delicious scent is refined by the delicacy of the materials chosen from the edge of the salt marshes.” (Millerharris.com). Fleurs de Sel is one of those atmospheric fragrances that perhaps can be best understood by actually being in the place they represent. L’Air de Rien, the previous Miller Harris creation, was done in a similar, although somewhat abstract way. Even though it took some warming up to, I was soon able to relate to L’Air de Rien to the point of getting quite attached to its ghostly character. With Fleurs de Sel, things are a bit more complicated. While I appreciate its unconventional composition, it remains rather cold and aloof.
Perhaps this aloofness can be explained by the pungent herbal notes that seem to permeate the entire composition. Thyme, rosemary, and clary sage (lots of it!) produce a medicinal effect, as if I’m smelling an herb tincture of some sort. Then again, I’m also getting whiffs of an aftershave. So I’m quite torn for the first twenty minutes or so. It’s only after that the iris becomes prominent, with a soft smoky undertone that seems to be achieved by bitter oakmoss and dry vetiver. The iris shimmers, as if trying to overpower the herbs. Alas, on my skin it’s quite the opposite: the herbs are rather adamant about staying as aromatic as can be (especially the sage), not even showing due respect to the presence of vetiver which seems to be pretty much weeping in the corner. So I’m left with a no doubt interesting scent but one that leaves me rather dispassionate. Perhaps if I ever make it to the coasts of Brittany, Fleurs De Sel will make sense and win a place in my heart.
Fleurs de Sel features the notes of red thyme oil, rosemary, clary sage, iris nobilis, narcisse, rose, ambrette, vetiver, moss. It’s available directly from the Miller Harris online shop.
Please be sure to check Marina’s take on Fleurs de Sel.
Image source: millerharris.com
Entry Filed under: New Perfumes, Perfume Reviews
16 Comments Add your own
1. Leopoldo | June 1st, 2007 at 2:16 am
I think I’m with you on this one. I liked it, but that clary sage note did make me think of medicine and aromatherapy rather than perfume….
2. chayaruchama | June 1st, 2007 at 5:34 am
This is fascinating.
A definite schism, here.
This one plays nicely with me-
I do think that my split is just enough, though.
There are few scents that require me to own a biggie…
3. Elle | June 1st, 2007 at 5:46 am
Yep, the clary sage took aim, shot and deep sixed this one for me. Very sad, because I really wanted to love this one.
4. newproducts | June 1st, 2007 at 6:21 am
Interesting review, Ina. You don’t mention the salty note, which leads me to believe maybe I will like this one. But if it is rather reminiscent of aromatherapy, as Leo says, then I will pass. I know what you mean about interesting scents that still leave you cold.
5. Solander | June 1st, 2007 at 6:44 am
Wow, what a lemming, everybody is reviewing this one!
I don’t mind herbs like thyme and rosemary, in fact, I’d like to own more scents featuring them. The sage scares me though… I think it might be the evil herb that makes me really dislike some herbal/green/aromatic scents… And I don’t want to smell like an aromatherapy store!
Well, still have to try it though, sooner or later. Hopefully I’ll actually come across a Miller Harris store pretty soon, so I don’t have to pay for samples..
6. Judith | June 1st, 2007 at 7:40 am
Just got a decant of this and put it on, and yay!–it seems to be Fleurs de Sel day on the blogs. On me (so far) it’s mostly salty wood and herbs. Like it, don’t love it. So far, no FB in view.
7. Marina | June 1st, 2007 at 8:59 am
Yep, I do get some aftershavey thing from it too at times. Not thrilled with that aspect of it.
8. tmp00 | June 1st, 2007 at 10:26 am
Hmmm- I just get the salty woody part with only a hint of the herbs- just enough. Still not sure that I will pop for a full bottle though, and still afraid it will have the Mr Hyde thing that Rien did on me.
9. Ina | June 1st, 2007 at 10:04 pm
Leo, exactly. Too much like aromatherapy.
10. Ina | June 1st, 2007 at 10:04 pm
Chaya, I’m the same! I’ve even become more picky lately. Alas, with this one, I don’t need more than a sample.
11. Ina | June 1st, 2007 at 10:05 pm
Elle, I wanted to love it, too. Oh well, there’ll be more.
12. Ina | June 1st, 2007 at 10:05 pm
Minsun, I get no salty note whatsoever. Wah!
13. Ina | June 1st, 2007 at 10:06 pm
Tove, sage can be good in very moderate amounts. In this case, it’s a total overdose.
14. Ina | June 1st, 2007 at 10:06 pm
Judith, no salty woods on my skin. Not sure if it’s good or bad, though.
15. Ina | June 1st, 2007 at 10:07 pm
Marina, I’m just happy we have L’Air de Rien.
16. Ina | June 1st, 2007 at 10:07 pm
Tom, just a hint of herbs? You’re so lucky!
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