Chicago has had a few humid days this week, and I said to myself, “Summer is here!” I must say, living in the city, the only descriptive words I can find for the summer season are something along the lines of stifling dirty mess. However, as I look at this picture of the Latvian countryside (while experiencing the typical seasonal homesickness), I’m instantly filled with olfactory images of summers past. Below is the list of fragrances I find best representative of each olfactory image:
Fresh grass and hay: L’Eau de L’Artisan by L’Artisan Parfumeur, Vie de Chateau by Parfums de Nicolai, Hierbas de Ibiza, Sous Le Vent by Guerlain, Bel Respiro by Chanel, Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca by Guerlain, Eau Sauvage by Dior.
Days at the beach: Monyette Paris, Ginger Ciao by Yosh, Azuree Soleil by Estee Lauder, Beach by Norma Kamali, Ananas Fizz by L’Artisan Parfumeur, Juste Un Reve by Parfums de Nicolai.
Inevitable humidity (in this case, the best scents for such days): Mure et Musc Extreme by L’Artisan Parfumeur, Divine Bergamot by The Different Company, Cologne Blanche by Dior, Nanadebary Green.
Sultry, balmy evenings: Jasmin Full by Montale, Climat by Lancome, Lipstick Rose by Frederic Malle, Songes by Annick Goutal, Nuits de Noho by Bond No 9, Rouge by Hermes, Nahema by Guerlain.
Summer desserts: Ciel, Mon Jardin! by Le Prince Jardinier, Eau de Reglisse by Caron, Vanilla by Jalaine, Philtre d’Amour by Guerlain.
What is summer to you and what fragrances best represent it?
Image source: balticholidays.com
May 30th, 2007
By Tove Solander
The next couple on the dance floor is the Caron classic Yatagan and Eloge Du Traitre from the even more infamous Etat Libre d’Orange. I know they have been spotted as smell-alikes all over the blogs by now but I said it first. I did. Only I said it in Swedish so nobody could hear me… Looking at the notes, the likeness hardly comes as a surprise: four hits and a clear belonging to the same family. Thus the real question is: “Mirror, mirror on the wall, who’s the manliest man of all?” Will the Turkish warrior slay the French traitor with his sabre or will the latter traitorously assassinate the former?
Yatagan: geranium, pine, patchouli, leather, lavender, wormwood, petitgrain, artemisia, vetiver, castoreum, styrax
Eloge Du Traitre: geranium, pine, patchouli, leather, bay, armoise, clove, jasmine, musk
The original: Yatagan is the man, the Seventies macho man who aspires to be a fox-hunting English gentleman but whose tweed suit has flared legs, oversized lapels, and a chequered pattern in orange, brown and green. Yatagan knows nothing of British subtlety. Sometimes he’s refreshingly bold and outdoorsy, like a walk on a forest floor covered with pine needles and pine cones. Sometimes he’s just a loud drunkard picking fights at the disco. Wearing Yatagan requires a certain energy, otherwise the sharp, dry, herbal notes might give you a headache or just get on your nerves. I think I prefer just smelling it from the bottle as a refreshing aromatherapy kick - wearing it I tend to tire of its one-dimensional harshness. There’s something dirty hidden in the vast forest but not dirty in a good way, more like wet dog. Now there’s an animalic note I fail to appreciate!
The copy: wearing the scents side by side, they’re more different than I expected. Or perhaps I just develop partial anosmia from smelling the one and can only pick out the notes that differentiate them in the other. Sure, Eloge Du Traitre has spicy herbs and dry pine too but it also has a hint of powdery sweetness which I guess is from the jasmine and the musk which oddly seems to be a clean white musk. It reminds me both of green chypres like Cabochard and of more conventional soapy men’s colognes, while Yatagan firmly belongs to the family of ruggedly masculine scents like L’Eau Du Navigateur and Jules. If this is a competition in machismo, Yatagan easily beats the more effeminate Eloge Du Traitre which even has – gasp! – a floral note. If it’s a competition in wearability, the slightly softer and “chicer” Eloge Du Traitre wins. Perhaps being a nancy boy dressed up as a lumberjack in borrowed clothes is a winning strategy?
May 30th, 2007