Absolu-tely Divine
May 22nd, 2007
By Donna Hathaway
When Jean Patou’s Sublime was released in 1992, I was immediately drawn to it, but I was reluctant to actually buy it at first. It was so different from anything I had ever worn before that I was not sure it was “me”. Until then, the only “big” perfume I had in my possession was Guerlain’s Nahema, which I could not wear in very many situations due to its intensity. I was afraid that Sublime would overwhelm me with its power. It was not a huge blast of olfactory overload like Poison or Giorgio, the twin plagues of the Eighties, but it was pretty assertive. However, after trying it on and wearing it for a few hours, I was amazed to discover that Sublime and I were meant for each other. The mandarin and orange blossom agreed with my skin as I never dreamed they would, and the bergamot, coriander and cedar kept it from being too sweet as the rose cast its spell over the whole, while never being dominant enough to turn it into a true rose scent. This was also one of the first perfumes I ever wore that has a generous dose of vanilla, but it is so well balanced that it is never foody; it just gives an embracing warmth to the composition I broke down and bought a big bottle, and whenever I wore it I received many compliments. This was a lesson for me; even a very strong fragrance is wearable when it is of the highest quality and has the seamless balance that Sublime has in abundance.
Recently, I discovered another fragrance that is very much in the same tradition as Sublime; Absolu de Rochas, released in 2002. For some reason I never tried it before, but I either love or admire virtually all other Rochas fragrances I have ever tried, and when I stumbled upon a description of it I was intrigued. This sounded like another winning Rochas fragrance meant for women, not girls, and lately I have really enjoyed wearing such things as I age into what I hope is my prime. So I ordered a small 5 ml bottle of the EDP for about $10.00. (For some reason, this fragrance has never been popular, so it is available at bargain prices at online perfume outlets.)
The only listed notes these two perfumes have in common are mandarin and orange blossom, but since each have enough of them to really make a statement, the similarity struck me immediately when I opened my elegant little bottle of Absolu. In contrast to Sublime, the elements that keep Absolu from being cloying are fig leaf in the opening, fleur de Lys and black pepper in the heart notes, and tolu balsam in the base. The other base notes are labdanum ciste and benzoin, making this a very warm fragrance indeed, and the longer it is on the skin the better it gets. I am a big fan of all three of the major base notes, so having them all in one fragrance is a real treat. This is a perfume for romantic evenings and special nights out on the town, deep and enveloping and very sensual. It is definitely not for women who do not wish to attract attention from men, for it will indeed provide an assist in that department, not only on its own merits but how it makes you feel when you wear it – feminine in the very best sense of the word.
Fashion expert Clinton Kelly of the popular television show “What Not To Wear” says that women should go through their closets and discard any article of clothing that does not make them feel beautiful, or powerful, or both. Absolu does exactly that.
Both Sublime and Absolu are still in production, and Sublime can be found at high quality department stores that carry the Jean Patou line. Absolu may be a bit harder to locate; like 1998’s Alchimie, which I also adore, it was never the big hit that Rochas fragrances such as Femme, Madame Rochas or Byzance have been. It is available at specialty boutiques and online merchants.( Also, in 2003 a new “version” called Absolu Intense Simply Red was released – it adds tuberose, amber and vanilla to the mix, among other things. I have not tried this one yet, but I hope it has retained the good qualities of the original. It’s on my wish list!)
Entry Filed under: Guest Blogger, Perfume Reviews
12 Comments Add your own
1. chayaruchama | May 23rd, 2007 at 5:58 am
Lovely review, Donna !
This is one of those delights that may be overlooked, as it flies under the radar.
I tried it recently, and was similarly pleased-
Why hadn’t I tried it sooner ?
Complex and satisfying, it unfurls itself over time.
2. Elle | May 23rd, 2007 at 7:14 am
Beautiful review! Must try to find Absolu. I will also have to go find my bottle of Alchimie. I remember loving that when it first came out.
3. newproducts | May 23rd, 2007 at 7:20 am
These both sound divine indeed! I must get myself a small bottle of Absolu since that one sounds the more affordable of the two.
4. Teri | May 23rd, 2007 at 1:29 pm
Absolu first came to my notice when I commented to a clerk in TJ Maxx about how nice she smelled. She walked me right over to their perfume display and handed me a bottle. “Buy it,” she said, “you’ll really like it on.” And I did - right on the spot. For all of $22.95. Best perfume deal I ever found.
5. Tommasina | May 23rd, 2007 at 1:39 pm
Oh, this is one of my HGs: I love it! I’m so glad that you all love it (or are now inspired to look for it): it’s a true unsung beauty.
Talking of Sung - sort of - I am also enjoying Jewel, which surprises me bcs it’s so not complex - uh - that would mnake it simple, right? Anyway, clean, pretty, just right for the humidity and heat of today in NC. Unfortunately, I don’t think Absolu would be very good on me right now. Shame.
6. rosarita | May 23rd, 2007 at 1:52 pm
Thanks for the lovely review! I have wondered what both Sublime and Absolu are like in scanning the fragrance lists of various etailers. Rochas has been a wonderful find for me - I am very fond of the reformulated Femme (as I will probably never find the vintage version) and lately I’ve been enjoying Eau de Rochas as a choice for warmer weather. Now I look forward to seeking out Absolu, the notes sound like something I would love.
7. minette | May 23rd, 2007 at 3:42 pm
absolu is wonderful - and totally underrated. i can only do sublime in the air - as a room spray - it makes me a little sick to my stomach on skin (and yet i can do most of the patous very well). absolu is easy to wear, and smells rich and sweet and soft.
8. Flora | May 23rd, 2007 at 10:41 pm
Thanks everyone - this was my first real full review!
Chaya, isn’t it wonderful? So compelling! Whenever I have it on I can’t stop smelling my wrist.
Elle, I have Alchimie and I just adore the fabulous bottle as much as the perfume.
newproducts, 1stperfume.com is having a sale on it right now and you can get a 5 ml bottle for $4.99! All other sizes are on sale as well. I may have to cave…
Teri, I have never seen it at my TJ Maxx - I must go look! It would be nice to get a bigger bottle now that I know how much I love it. I found my Jolie Madame there, after all, they do have some great stuff sometimes.
Tommasina, I don’t understand why Absolu is not more popular - maybe because it is not a fruity floral?!
Rosarita, it’s worth seeking out. I once had the pleasure of trying vintage Femme - words cannot begin to describe! I think Rochas is an underrated house in general, it’s well-respected but does not get the kind of press that Chanel or Guerlain do. I adore Lumiere but I believe it is discontinued. Alchimie is fantastic. I cannot wear Byzance but I love smelling it. And who does not love Madame Rochas? Their men’s fragrances are wonderful too.
minette, I know what you mean about Sublime, it is very strong! And I will have to put my Absolu away when it gets hot - fortunately we have cool springs where I live, so I am safe for awhile yet.
9. merlot | May 24th, 2007 at 8:56 am
Absolu was the first fragrance I bought from recommendations on another fragrance forum. That was in 2002. It is a rich and haunting fragrance. One of the few scents where I cared enough to acquire a backup. Lovely review.
10. Ina | May 24th, 2007 at 9:40 pm
Donna, thank you for your wonderful review! Absolu is indeed underrated and somehow wasn’t marketed well enough in the U.S. It seems a lot of Rochas scents get unnoticed here which is a pity.
11. Louise | May 25th, 2007 at 8:52 am
Absolu was a French department store find for me several years ago-love it, wear it often in colder months. I haven’t run across it here, but will likely get a re-up this summer in France!
12. Ferdie | May 26th, 2007 at 11:39 am
I’m glad I checked in today, PT! I l o v e ALL your reviews; so well-informed, and passionate. It inspires this fragrance neophyte to be more adventuresome! One in particular about which I know nothing but was mentioned by a friend: Niki de Saint Phalle. Any info about its qualities–or lack thereof? Have a relaxing holiday weekend all!
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