Olfactory Tricks
May 20th, 2007
As I’m getting used to my new work schedule, the main challenge is not so much the lack of time to conduct proper sniffing sessions and prepare reviews – it’s the olfactory fatigue, shall we call it. I’m getting there, though. Working in a perfume shop is most certainly delightful. A couple vital things I’ve learned in the past couple of weeks are: 1) frequent smelling of scents that contain a good amount of natural materials does change your perception of what’s offered in department stores today. OK, I already knew that but it seems to be more acute now. Examples: the new Coach fragrance and Eclat de Jasmin by Armani Prive. Both lovely florals, sheer and bright and pretty. Both leave me uninspired – my nose detects synthetics, and I cannot help myself. 2) Boy, does skin chemistry play tricks on people! I’ve smelled the same scents on many a wrists, and none is alike. Yes, I knew that already, too, but not so much in practice. Sheer mystery! Oh, there’s also another vital thing I’ve witnessed at this job: the associations scents evoke in people are simply fascinating and completely unpredictable. The most vivid example is Jour de Fete, a scent inspired by celebratory almond desserts (almond cookies, candied almonds, bitter almonds, marzipan – you name it). Apparently, to one person it smells of fall air and leaves. Actually, make that two – I’m one of them now. Surprisingly, these associations tend to rub off on you.
Do you have any olfactory tricks stories? Do share!
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14 Comments
1. Leopoldo | May 21st, 2007 at 2:57 am
Jour de Fete – this had gone unsniffed by both March and me – until Saturday. We exclaimed, ‘heliotrope!’ and moved on. I wish I had your associations.
I think Voleur des Roses is a l’Artisan that has very different reactions from people.
2. peppernuts | May 21st, 2007 at 4:14 am
Yes, the mystery of Chéne…I bought the perfume, for me it was pure delight…Corsian Macchia, a fresh cut reinous tree in the sunheat…all of that. And then: A friend says: “you smell like “Maggi”, but it´s nice.” Umph. Another time, my boss (who likes most of my perfumes) mentioned: “Hm. reminds me of my last visit at the dentist. Not a nice memory” And then suddenly the dream of a perfume changed into a monster in my nose. And never went back. If the nose sniffs, the mind sniffs as well….
3. Elle | May 21st, 2007 at 6:45 am
Skin chemistry completely fascinates me. I used to test scents on at least two different people (DH and a friend) before I’d write a review, but even since I quit writing reviews, I still compulsively test on DH, any friend in sight (they accept my wierdness) and take detailed notes about how it dries down on them over a period of a few hours. I never cease to be amazed at how very different scents can smell on different people.
Fall air and leaves for JdF? Definitely would not have expected that. Must retest on some new people and see if I can convince myself it smells like that one me…I wish!
4. Judith | May 21st, 2007 at 7:00 am
I feel as you do about the Armani, though not for the same reason, since I don’t have that sharp a nose. I just thought is was very pretty, but it didn’t move me further. I haven’t tried Jour de Fete–must do, since Fall is my favorite season. And I was astounded, at my first sniffa, to experience how radically different the same scent could smell on different people.
5. SniffQ | May 21st, 2007 at 12:08 pm
Jour de Fete is available in the US? Oh, please, tell me where! I have a very odd skin chemistry, and can smell synthetics. Those two factors mean that I have a lot of trouble buying a long-lasting perfume that I like. Jour de Fete was one of those–I didn’t smell like a Marizipan cookie, but almond works with my skin chemistry to produce a wonderful smell. AND good memories. I’ve read that scent is strongly linked to memories and memories can be retrieved most vividly through scent. –Q
6. Ina | May 21st, 2007 at 7:55 pm
Lee, heliotrope? I’ve never even thought of that. I get lots of powdery almonds and vanilla. You’re right about Voleur. My fave one is it smells like a wine cork.
7. Ina | May 21st, 2007 at 7:56 pm
Peppernuts, what a shame! I adore Chene. Maggi? How on earth? Go figure.
8. Ina | May 21st, 2007 at 7:57 pm
Elle, you crack me up with your detailed notes.
9. Ina | May 21st, 2007 at 7:57 pm
Judith, I kept wanting Eclat de Jasmin to move me further as well. The jasmine just seemed so… unreal.
10. Ina | May 21st, 2007 at 7:59 pm
SniffQ, yes! Jour de Fete is only available at L’Artisan boutiques. Along with Verte Violette, L’Eau du Navigateur, Santal, Fleur de Carotte, Jacinthe de Bois, Oeillet Sauvage… there, now you know.
Btw, our store ships.
11. Nereis | May 22nd, 2007 at 8:53 am
I always thought skin chemistry might be closely related to the other scented products one use in shower and the skin care that follows. It would be highly difficult to go scentless in shower, and I’ve given up on this approach. Although I like unscented body lotions they cost much more/has less features, and I’d rather save a few bucks towards a possible next bottle.(The truth is as long it’s not too strongly scented, the difference isn’t worth writing home about)
It’s amazing what that strongly tarry Polytar shampoo can augment scents, and often not in a bad way(!) I find that it cuts back on the sweetness of things in musky scents and brings out the more spicy side of things. Similar story here I’ve once ran out of a bottle of body lotion and ended up using different lotions on my 2 arms, which really caused the fragrance applied afterwards seem like different animals.
I definitely think that the fixatives in perfume often has this amplification effect that can revive the existing scents which pass unnoticed. Spray something on one arm and wait long enough that you don’t smell a thing having your nose up close, and spray on say a light musk or even better maybe a ambergris tincture, and see the scent come back. Maybe I am not so much of a believer in skin chemistry anymore.
12. winterwheat | May 23rd, 2007 at 2:20 pm
Now you’ve got me craving a bottle of Jour de Fete. Is there a l’Artisan boutique in San Francisco? I’ll be there later this week.
13. Ina | May 25th, 2007 at 12:33 pm
Nereis, wow, what an interesting theory. It makes total sense. I’ll have to experiment.
14. Ina | May 25th, 2007 at 12:34 pm
Kris, not a boutique but it’s gotta be carried somewhere. You can check on the web site for retailer info. Have fun on your trip!