Perfume Review: French Lover by Frederic Malle
May 17th, 2007
Let me start by saying I really love the Frederic Malle line of fragrances: the brilliant concept, the genius perfumers, the understated packaging, and, of course, the scents themselves. Vetiver Extraordinaire, Noir Epices, Lipstick Rose, Une Fleur de Cassie, even Carnal Flower are very fitting, tastefully chosen names that I’ve never questioned or paid much attention to. Along comes French Lover, and, before I get a chance to smell the juice, I’m slightly flustered. The only vivid example I can liken the emotion to is the memory of finding out a new boy is about to join our class in middle school. He’s not local, comes from a solid family and has traveled the world. We hear he’s tall, dark-haired, and very, very smart (and speaks English!). All the girls are a-twitter, and what we really want to know is whether he’s good-looking (well, he’s gotta be because we won’t have it any other way). The news of French Lover affected me in a similar fashion. Even now, after the initial sniff test, I feel like I have to say something demure and flirty, blush a few times, and casually drop a handkerchief (neatly embroidered by my great grand-mother). But, just as the case was with the new boy (who was, by the way, smashingly handsome), I never acted demure and flirty or dropped a handkerchief (although I did blush many a times), simply because I pathetically lack a single bone in my body that could possibly warrant such behavior. Nevertheless, the boy was my secret crush, and so is French Lover. Except it’s not quite secret – I proclaim my love right here and right now.
That said, I still feel like I don’t really know how to act around French Lover. He’s ever so smashing! His voice is husky, his shoulders are broad, his demeanor is as virile as can be, and his shoes are always polished. Apparently, Pierre Bourdon (the perfumer) and Frederic Malle aspired to create the ultimate man fragrance – modern and refined. They’ve succeeded. French Lover is what I’d call dry chypre very much in the classic tradition, yet with certain contemporary twists and turns. It’s built around angelica (an aromatic, medicinal herb) and woods (mostly, cedar). It’s decidedly full-bodied – a hearty mix of pimento, cedar, vetiver, and incense. As I said earlier, I get rather bashful and nervous around it, yet I’m filled with the urge to wear French Lover. When I do, I happily forget about all things ladylike and courtly – I’m a woman with power and am not afraid to use it.
French Lover will appeal to you if you favor such scents as Derby by Guerlain, Querelle by Parfumerie Generale, Navegar by L’Artisan Parfumeur, Incensi by Lorenzo Villoresi, Antaeus by Chanel, and even Miss Dior by Christian Dior.
French Lover features the notes of angelica, pimento, galbanum, iris, bay rum, clove, cardamom, juniper, cedar, oakmoss, frankincense, patchouli, vetiver. It’s said to be sold in the U.S. under the name of Bois d’Orage. Hrmph. Well, you know, he’s a spy, so you gotta do what you gotta do. Meanwhile, he’s still in France, at the Editions de Parfums online shop.
Image source: editionsdeparfums.com
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17 Comments
1. carmencanada | May 18th, 2007 at 5:21 am
Funny how the combination of name and perfume summons a very definite projection of a character, isn’t it? I’m wondering whether any man can step into this particular French Lover’s shoes, and live up to the scent itself… I haven’t sprung for it yet, but I’m also considering wearing it myself — I love Derby and the vintage Miss Dior. You’re right, it is a “full-bodied” scent, as we’d say of coffee and whiskey.
I think the pimento note is one of the contemporary touches that make it smell un-classic: it wasn’t found in traditional perfumery, yet it recalls cloves and carnations, without the headiness.
2. chayaruchama | May 18th, 2007 at 5:25 am
Well, I’m lost.
I love Querelle big time.
3. Elle | May 18th, 2007 at 6:55 am
Want. Now. Almost wish I hadn’t purchased a sample, since that’s delaying the time till I can sniff and move on to own a full bottle. Have a feeling this would be an unsniffed purchase I’d not have had morning after regrets about.
4. Patty | May 18th, 2007 at 7:15 am
I wish I could smell it properly. I get everything you’re saying out of the bottle, but my skin eats this poor man up and spits him out as pure alcohol. Wonder what that says about me?
“It’s not you, French Lover, it’s me. I love you in theory, but together we just don’t work.” Waaaahhhh! I’m so sad!
5. Leopoldo | May 18th, 2007 at 7:26 am
Woop! Woop! testing this tomorrow with March. I’m interested in the comparisons – you list four scents I love, one I hate (Incensi – my stomach rolls) and one that hates me (Querelle – my head rolls). I’m fascinated to see how it turns out.
6. Steve | May 18th, 2007 at 7:31 am
Patty,
You are not the only one! I am a big fan of the Malle line and was very excited to hear about this one and had very high hopes. Alas, the first few minutes are great then it all but disappears. After an hour, I wouldn’t even have known I put it on. Count me a hugely disapointed.
Regards,
Steve
7. carmencanada | May 18th, 2007 at 7:36 am
Popping in again… Patty, Steve, that disappearing act is very strange. FL lasted at least 10 hours on me with just one timid spritz. I wonder if this is due to musk anosmia (musk is listed in the official description, but from Osmoz I got mostly amber substitutes). And Lee, I’m eager to read your and March’s opinion.
8. Judith | May 18th, 2007 at 8:29 am
Oh, yay! This sounds perfect for me! I love all the scents you mention except for Incensi (there is some note in there that hates me)–and the description sounds wonderful! Luis from FM at Barneys NY also opined that I would really like this! And that’s a very good thing, b/c I already went in on a split of the 3×10 ml. Can’t wait to get mine!
9. newproducts | May 18th, 2007 at 9:15 am
Of the scents you mention, I have only tried (and love) Incensi. Do you think that bodes well for me and French Lover? Wonderful review. I’m salivating at the thought of this scent.
10. Patty | May 18th, 2007 at 9:35 am
Steve and D — I do think it is anosmia to some note or compound in there. I get it here and there, but not with all musks. I know CB told us last summer that there is a couple of musk compounds that a lot of people are anosmic to or ultra sensitive to, which explains why one person can wear a perfume by the gallon and think it doesn’t smell, and another is ready to choke on the musk fumes.
I think it has great lasting power, though! The alcohol smell on my skin lasted through two showers, and i still could smell it. I just wish whatever it was wouldn’t turn to alcohol on either my skin or my nose, because everything I smell in it seems just perfect up to that point.
11. Amy | May 18th, 2007 at 9:40 am
Oh, my goodness me. I’m fanning myself after that. I adore Derby, and long for the day I can actually afford it. I need to smell some of this stuff NOW.
12. eaumy | May 18th, 2007 at 9:44 am
Oh my! I am positively atwitter with anticipation as I await my very own French Lover to arrive. Hurry, Lover. Hurry!
13. violetnoir | May 18th, 2007 at 10:48 am
Ooh baby! This sounds g-o-o-o-o-o-d!
Hugs!
14. tmp00 | May 18th, 2007 at 10:55 am
I am getting a sample of this and you are making me want to blow off work and go home and wait for it..
15. Ina | May 18th, 2007 at 8:40 pm
Thank you all for your comments! I wore French Lover today, and it was fab. The more I wear it, the more comfortable I am around him.
Mr.Aromascope complimented a few times today which is a good thing but I have to be careful. Ha!
16. joe | May 23rd, 2007 at 4:54 pm
I don’t get it….I received this scent about a week ago.
It’s really a whisper which is not worth listening to.
Ultra light, not much of anything, just a meek bore.
I guess blind purchases should no longer be made from FM.
$200 for a shy scent, low concentration…not for me. L homme Sage, now we are talking breathtaking.
17. john Parodi | May 18th, 2008 at 12:13 am
YAAY! I spoke to Frederic Malle yesterday, and he did recognise some inherent flaws whithin the scent. mainly it’s staying power. It has now been reformulated, and the concetration is higher. and the base drier. I’m gonna test drive tomorrow.