Perfume Review: Vetiver Extraordinaire by Frederic Malle
April 30th, 2007
The presence of vetiver in perfume is just as essential as a high quality rose oil or jasmine essence. It’s widely used as a fixative in base notes. Thankfully, it has also been explored as a single note, so to speak, emphasizing different aspects of its versatile character. In basic terms, vetiver has a rooty, earthy aroma. However, there’s a lot you can do with it. You can make it smoky as in Hermessence Vetiver Tonka or Vetiver by Annick Goutal. You can play upon its cold, wet, and salty facet – Sel de Vetiver by The Different Company, Vetiver by Guerlain, Original Vetiver by Creed. Quite opposite, you can also make it all warm and woody as it’s been done in Vetiver by Jalaine or Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens. Or you can simply rejoice in its rooty, earthy dryness that’s been rendered the best in Vetiver by L’Artisan (sadly, discontinued) and Vetiver Extraordinaire by Frederic Malle.
There’s nothing unusual or extraordinary about Vetiver Extraordinaire as far as vetiver is concerned – it’s vetiver at its core, unadulterated – green, herbaceous, earthy. However, it’s the most extraordinary rendition of the note I’ve smelled so far. It’s the King of Vetivers. Created by Dominique Ropion, the scent is said to contain the largest amount of Haitian Vetyver essence in the industry. Upon first spray, it’s seemingly straightforward vetiver, enhanced by bergamot, bitter orange, and just a hint of nutmeg. The longer it stays on skin, the trickier it gets: the ordinary green earthiness welcomes the extraordinary balsamic mossiness followed by a mild ozonic/watery undertone. The result is crisp, modern, and insolent. Take it or leave it, this vetiver will not budge. It was not an instant love for me. In fact, it’s taken a considerable amount of time to not only like it but actually love it with a passion. I reach for it most on days when my mood is chaotic, and my outfit is ordinary, and I need a healthy dose of understated, yet extraordinary charisma.
Vetiver Extraordinaire features the notes of bergamot, bitter orange, pink pepper, nutmeg, floralozone, Haïtain vetyver, sandalwood, cedarwood, oakmoss, myrrh, cashmeran, musks. It can be purchased from Barney’s New York or directly from the Editions de Parfums online shop.
Image source: barneys.com
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20 Comments
1. Elle | May 1st, 2007 at 6:56 am
Hmm. Will have to retry this one. I still haven’t become a serious vetiver convert – basically, I like my vetivers warm and woody or, as I think of them, starter vetivers. I think this one is still too advanced for me. But understated, yet extraordinary charisma? How can I resist something that does that?
2. Marina | May 1st, 2007 at 7:01 am
Great review of a great scent! I think my favorite vetivers are still Djedi and Vetiver Bourbon, but I like this one very much as well.
3. Patty | May 1st, 2007 at 7:04 am
This always strikes me as one I really need to try again. I tried it too early on in my, um, looking for more original scents journey. It sounds really pretty perfect!
4. Judith | May 1st, 2007 at 7:19 am
A wonderful scent, though I don’t know that it is one of my favorite vetivers. I am sad to hear that L’artisan Vet is discontinued; I didn’t know:(
5. Solander | May 1st, 2007 at 8:06 am
I must try this. I’ve only ever tried 2 of the Malles (the 2 samples got for free when doing the scent type test on the homepage)
6. newproducts | May 1st, 2007 at 8:34 am
Vetiver is a note I have yet to fully explore. Sounds like this would be a good vetiver to sample.
7. Divina | May 1st, 2007 at 10:27 am
I really like vetiver so I too am looking forward to getting a chance to sniff this. The vetiver I regard as most true and attractive is the old (before the reformulation) Kenzo pour Homme. Pure northern sea dune fantasy.
8. faizanjax | May 1st, 2007 at 5:34 pm
I used to like this one. Its pretty linear and the quality of the vetiver is good, but that ozone note makes it smell like lighter fluid at times. Overall still a very wearable if rather unremarkable vetiver fragrance. Is it worth $200? Hell no!
My two favorite vetivers are Guerlain Vetiver, and Creed Vetiver ’48 (not Original Vetiver). If you want a raw rooty interpretation of the note, try Route Du Vetiver by MPG/
9. Ina | May 1st, 2007 at 8:10 pm
Elle, I used to like my vetivers warm and woody, too, but I must have done a total turnaround – Vetiver Extraordinaire seems to be indispensable somehow. Especially the charisma part.
10. Niney | May 1st, 2007 at 8:10 pm
I’m glad you gave a descrption of what vetiver smells like.I was under the impression for some reason that it had a citrus, lemony smell.It seems to be present in alot of fragrances for Men.Will have to try this one and some of the others mentioned.Thanks!
11. Ina | May 1st, 2007 at 8:11 pm
Marina, now that you mention Vetiver Bourbon, I must go sniff it again. Djedi is vetiver? Somehow I didn’t notice that.
12. Ina | May 1st, 2007 at 8:11 pm
Patty, yes, this one you have to grow up to, for sure.
13. Ina | May 1st, 2007 at 8:12 pm
Judith, yes, isn’t it a shame? They get rid of the good guys way too much.
14. Ina | May 1st, 2007 at 8:13 pm
Tove, yes, it’s a must try. I think you’ll like it.
15. Ina | May 1st, 2007 at 8:14 pm
Minsun, if you’re just starting out in vetiver, I’d actually not recommend VE as a starting point. I’d go with milder versions like maybe Creed Original Vetiver or Guerlain Vetiver. This one is pretty hard core.
16. Ina | May 1st, 2007 at 8:14 pm
Divina, I’ve never smelled that one! Wow, sounds really good.
17. Ina | May 1st, 2007 at 8:15 pm
Faizan, I remember quite liking Route du Vetiver by MPG. Must resniff. I agree, the price for VE is atrocious. Thankfully, the ozone note isn’t too strong on my skin.
18. Ina | May 1st, 2007 at 8:16 pm
Niney, it’s often combined with citrus in men’s colognes, you’re right. But the note itself is sort of dirty as in earthy/wet/rooty and green. Truly amazing!
19. Bryan | May 1st, 2007 at 9:41 pm
My holy grail is Carnal Flower from the same line. The only reason I bring it up is because I would love to smell VE on a woman. Then I would love to smell the air as we embrace…granted it would be platonic ; ) but we’d smell fab.
20. Ina | May 1st, 2007 at 10:52 pm
Bryan, ah, what an image! You just made me weak in my knees.