New York Sniffage Report
April 16th, 2007
Seems like ages since I’ve written here but what can you do, when work sends you to New York with plenty of free time to sniff, your priorities change drastically (plus I had no internet access). But I’m glad to be back and report on my fragrant adventures. The first time I traveled to New York was about three and a half years ago when I had barely started out in my perfume addiction. I was thrilled to visit the fancy perfume shops but was also highly intimidated by the abundance of scents I knew nothing of, so the result was quite lamentable – I barely sniffed anything and bought nothing (the fact of accidentally kicking a dog in a shop didn’t help either). Many a times since I’ve looked upon that adventure with piercing regret – ah, if only I had savored the experience! That’s what you do when you find yourself surrounded by the multitude of perfumes – you savor and partake. This time around, I did just that.
My first fragrant stop was Aedes de Venustas, a posh boutique in West Village that’s an absolute must for any self-respecting perfume aficionado. I could literally spend hours in that store (it was close to two this time). Besides charming and very knowledgeable owners, the selection of niche/hard-to-find scents is simply incredible. Having previously smelled a lot of what the shop offers, I must say I didn’t so much discover as rediscover – Musk by Lorenzo Villoresi (powdered rose musk), Bursch by Acqua di Biella (warm, boozy spices), and, new to me, Yu, the $5,000 perfume that smells gorgeous and very much along the lines of Gardenia by Chanel.
Bergdorf Goodman required a couple visits. The beauty and fragrance department is one of the best around. My first point of attraction was obviously Guerlain. Iris Ganache, while a bit weaker now, is still a lemming. From the one drop I was able to spray it was a lovely mix of Cuir Beluga and Insolence. The Garden Ouds I whimpered about earlier are a disgrace to the house of Guerlain. Not only there isn’t anything remotely oud-like about them but the utter flat character is inexcusable, especially for such a hefty price. Thankfully, there was one fragrance I fell for upon first sniff – Mayotte, the reissue of Mahora, with a couple distinct changes (a separate review to come soon). Another magnetic appeal at Bergdorf’s was the new Tom Ford scents. I must say the appeal waned the minute I found myself standing in front of the display table – 12 scents in identical bottles with lots of similar sounding names (there’re lots of “noirs” and “blacks”), all smelling suspiciously like clones or distant relatives of Black Orchid. Frankly, I was overwhelmed. I started picking them up, one by one, and spraying on a card, only to discover one heavy smell after another, with not much identity or charm. But I won’t judge them yet as I still hope to obtain samples to conduct further thorough testing. What I found deplorable, however, was the presentation – way too many perfumes, way too alike, with nothing to back them up (what’s behind the name, for instance?) The conclusion: exclusivity doesn’t equal mastery.
My other stops were Barney’s and Takashimaya, neither of which had any substantial thrill (although still worth visiting). A real highlight, however, was the L’Artisan Parfumeur boutique on Madison Ave. It was my first time visiting the boutique, and I fell all over in love with the line. The perfumes are neatly and tastefully arranged on the shelves for you to interact with, the staff is ever so smiley and helpful (and French!), the whole atmosphere is just charming. I fell in love with the Mood Swings coffret again as well as the new Jatamansi organic body care products (I hear the body mist is due to be released in May).
Pardon my eloquence today – too many fragrant impressions at once. That’s what four days in New York would do to you. Ah, I want to go back already.
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26 Comments
1. newproducts | April 16th, 2007 at 3:25 am
I too thought Mayotte was gorgeous and was surprised to hear that it was the reissue of Mahora, since the latter is much maligned. I think you have just started another lemming for me.
2. newproducts | April 16th, 2007 at 3:28 am
Sorry, commenting again to ask, how much is the Mayotte?
3. carmencanada | April 16th, 2007 at 3:51 am
Hi Ina, nice to have you back. I’m looking forward to reading your compare/contrast between Mahora and Mayotte. I actually went and bought Mahora on the…. grrrr… Bay, after having sniffed Mayotte. I utterly loved its slightly over-ripe tropical lushness.
I’ve yet to see the Tom Fords anywhere — I don’t even know where they’re sold in Paris — but I think there are just too much to launch at the same time. How are we to orient ourselves? Much as I try to keep an open mind, I’m not very partial to Mr Ford’s persona and perhaps I’ll just, simply, pass on these.
4. Elle | April 16th, 2007 at 6:38 am
Sigh. What a fab trip!!! Can’t wait to hear a full review of Mayotte! And I hadn’t heard of Yu either….as if it matters, given the price point.
5. Judith | April 16th, 2007 at 8:53 am
Sounds as if I just missed you in NY (waaah!) I was there very briefly on Friday. I only stopped in BGs for a minute to smell the TFs, and I did like a couple a lot–oud wood and moss breches–even though I don’t care for BO either. I didn’t even know about Mayotte (or, for that matter, the Yu). Can’t wait to hear!!
6. Ina | April 16th, 2007 at 9:28 am
Minsun, I like Mayotte much more than Mahora. I think I got too much almond or coconut or whatever that pesky note is in Mahora. It comes in that 125 ml bee bottle for $190.
7. Ina | April 16th, 2007 at 9:29 am
Carmencanada, Mahora smothered me, too. Mayotte is much nicer. As for Fords, weird timing to release such heavy orientals and SO many at once (and pricey!)
8. Ina | April 16th, 2007 at 9:30 am
Elle, the Yu bottle is super cool, and the juice lasts a long time but not $5,000 long.
9. Ina | April 16th, 2007 at 9:31 am
Judith, I left Thursday night. Bummer! I remember liking Oud Wood as well. Black Violet is also nice.
10. Patty | April 16th, 2007 at 9:35 am
I’m finding a lot of the TFs to love/like, but I do think it’s a tragedy they are all released at once. I think everyone needs to pretend they just did one a month or something.
I thought they smelled too much alike just running through the bottles, but once I started playing with them, slowly, on my skin, I’ve found some winners and some losers, but each are very different and distinct.
Moss Breches and Tobacco Vanille are at the top of my list right now, but those are just the two I’ve spent time with.
Gla dyou had a great trip, Ina!
11. March | April 16th, 2007 at 9:47 am
The L’Artisan lady was so nice! She gave me a ton of free samples. It’s a great shop. Glad you made it home — good ol’ Chicago weather!
12. Ina | April 16th, 2007 at 10:10 am
Patty, that’s what I’m hoping will happen. I need to test them one by one, thoroughly.
13. Ina | April 16th, 2007 at 10:11 am
March, free samples are always good.
I personally fell in love (and purchased) a 100% silk La Chasse Aux Papillons scarf! It’s so cute.
14. Marina | April 16th, 2007 at 10:29 am
So glad that you had great time. But even more glad to you have you back
15. Ina | April 16th, 2007 at 10:39 am
Marina, thanks, sweetie! Glad to be back.
16. Robin | April 16th, 2007 at 10:58 am
A La Chasse Aux Papillons scarf! Picture, please!
17. winterwheat | April 16th, 2007 at 11:06 am
I actually still have a full bottle of Mahora sitting on my display, and the reason it’s full is that I want so much to like it but simply can’t wear it. I look forward to trying Mayotte! And please, tell us more about your impression of Iris Ganache. Can’t wait to try this one.
Glad you made it back safely!
18. Ina | April 16th, 2007 at 11:13 am
Robin, I’ll be sure to take one soon! It’s such a cute thing. It has little men chasing butterflies.
19. Ina | April 16th, 2007 at 11:15 am
Kris, I really need to smell Mahora again to compare the two. As for Iris Ganache, I only got one spritz (their lab bottle was almost empty), and I quite liked it – it had that cuddly powderiness of Cuir Beluga and the soft iris that’s in Insolence. Nothing too original but still nice.
20. tmp00 | April 16th, 2007 at 11:52 am
glad to read that you had so much fun- and glad you got out before the deluge!
21. violetnoir | April 16th, 2007 at 12:02 pm
So good to have you back, Ina. I look forward to hearing how Mayotte is the same, yet different, from Mahora.
Hugs and love!
22. Tigs | April 16th, 2007 at 1:17 pm
Nice to have you back, Ina. I found the SAs very pleasant (and very French) at L’Artisan in London, too – but it seemed more expensive than online. I wonder if that was just a crazy London/U.K thing. How did you find the prices?
23. Ina | April 16th, 2007 at 8:24 pm
Tom, no kidding!
24. Ina | April 16th, 2007 at 8:25 pm
Robin, thanks! I wish I had a sample of Mahora around to compare. I’m afraid I’m going to have to do it by memory.
25. Ina | April 16th, 2007 at 8:26 pm
Tigs, thanks! Nice to be back. The prices for L’Artisan, you mean? They’re the same as anywhere else in the U.S.
26. Aromascope » Random&hellip | April 26th, 2007 at 11:38 pm
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