Perfume Review: Rock Crystal, Amethyst by Olivier Durbano
April 8th, 2007
Olivier Durbano is a French jewelry designer whose keen interest in gemstones has expanded to perfume as an olfactory poem to the gem it represents. The correlation between precious stones and perfume is not a novel concept as it has already been explored in Armani Prive fragrances (Cuir Amethyste, Eau de Jade, Pierre de Lune) as well as the eclectic Stoned. The concept as such might not be novel but the approach certainly is - to convey the mood, the symbolism of each stone. This proved to be true for me as I caught myself focusing on the general feel of the scent more than its ingredients. The first two fragrances in the line are Rock Crystal and Amethyst (with five more to come), created in collaboration with the perfumers of Grasse.
Rock Crystal (the colorless variety of quartz) represents the belief that wearing quartz crystals benefits health and spiritual well-being. Hence, it is an incense scent built around frankincense and dry spices. Rock Crystal evokes images of old, forgotten small village churches with dusty interior and incense smoke instilled in the air. It’s dark but not brooding, aloof but not cold. I find Rock Crystal soothing and contemplative. It embraces and stays close to skin. While not particularly original (Rock Crystal could be a cousin to the Incense series by Comme des Garcons or Armani Prive Bois d’Encens), it is definitely well-balanced, a sort of a mellow take on incense.The scent features the notes of orange, pepper, coriander, cardamom, cumin, olibanum, benzoin, myrrh, cistus, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, everlasting flower, oakmoss, musk.
In contrast, Amethyst, much like the gemstone, is a vivid, robust scent. Symbolizing peace of mind and protection, it is a playful composition with an uplifting effect. The scent is built around fruity and floral notes (quite successfully, I must say), spiced up by pepper, and rounded by vanillic orris. It’s rather sweet and aromatic bringing to mind such scents as Haute Couture by Givenchy or even Putain des Palaces by Etat Libre D’Orange. The incense here has a suede-like, slightly minty undertone. The scent very much conveys the intensity of the color purple. While I find it quite pleasant, it doesn’t seem to grab me as much as Rock Crystal does (which is probably due to my general lack of interest in fruity-florals). The featured notes are bergamot, pepper, grape, raspberry, incense, palisander wood, jasmine, orris, vegetable amber, sandalwood, musk, vanilla.
Rock Crystal and Amethyst are available at Luckyscent and Aus Liebe Zum Duft.
Image source: luckyscent.com
Entry Filed under: New Perfumes, Perfume Reviews
12 Comments Add your own
1. newproducts | April 9th, 2007 at 12:58 am
Wow, Rock Crystal must be different on the skin from how it is on a scent strip. From the strip that I smelled, it wasn’t so much incensey as a resinous, ambery scent. I’m so glad I ordered a sample of this (it’s on its way). I think I may need this scent, based on how you describe it! Amethyst was…nice. If only it didn’t have any fruit…
2. Judith | April 9th, 2007 at 5:45 am
Rock Crystal is very nice, but I don’t think I need it b/c
–it does remind me very much of Bois d’Encens (and several other things)
–on me, at least, there is very little sillage; I have to stick my nose to my wrist to smell it..
3. Elle | April 9th, 2007 at 5:55 am
RC sounds potentially small decant worthy, Amethyste sounds like one sampling out of curiosity will be all that will be required. Budget relief!
4. chayaruchama | April 9th, 2007 at 7:57 am
Hey, baby !
I hope Easter was very good for you, Baltic Beauty.
I liked these, but I’m with Judith {surprised ? I think not !-
If I don’t stop ‘being with Judith’, there’s going to be some waggling tongues to contend with-lol ] -
I don’t think I need to OWN them, just appreciating them will suffice…
What a change for me, olfactorily lustful creature that I am.
5. Marina | April 9th, 2007 at 7:59 am
I liked RC, but I agree with what you and Judith said. It is reminiscent of lots of similar scents, and it has no sillage to speak of. Still, I think it is going to be very popular. Amethyst, on the other hand, sounds downright scary. Minty? Putain-de-Palaces-like? Gaah!
6. Ina | April 9th, 2007 at 8:58 am
Minsun, I get tons of incense and dry spices, not as much resins. Curious to know how you like it on your skin.
7. Ina | April 9th, 2007 at 8:58 am
Judith, yes, the sillage is a problem here, too. Overall, I’d love to have a bottle but I don’t think I want to spend this much.
8. Ina | April 9th, 2007 at 8:59 am
Elle, yes, decant-worthy for sure. Ah, how nice to have budget reliefs once in a while!
9. Ina | April 9th, 2007 at 9:00 am
Chaya, well, after reading your Sniffa purchases list I can understand why you chose to admire it from a distance.
10. Ina | April 9th, 2007 at 9:01 am
Marina, yes, it’ll be very popular for sure. Amethyst isn’t really that scary, just not as grabbing.
11. Judith | April 9th, 2007 at 6:55 pm
Well, hey, Chaya, you live nearby, so why doncha . Oh, well.
12. Judith | April 9th, 2007 at 6:58 pm
The last post was supposed to include the following notation between sentences:
*tries to do either a Mae West or a Groucho Marx impression, and fails miserably at both*
I surrounded it in diamond brackets, the blog took it for wacky html, and I failed more spectacularly (and incomprehensibly) than I had intended.
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