Aromascope

Perfume Review: Magnolia Pourpre By Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier

March 28th, 2007

This winter reminds me of a stubborn woman who is reluctant to leave long after her company is welcome. It is wrangling with timid bright signs of coming spring, affirming its presence from time to time with cold gusts of wind, pouring rain or silver frost settled over gentle green growth early in the mornings.

At this time of the year I get utterly confused as what perfume to put on as I get ready to take on a day. The dark warming winter scents (Nuit de Noel, Ambre Sultan, and Musc Ravageur) seem to be a bit too much; they seem to hold on to winter moods and remind me of Christmas or first snow. (Don’t get me wrong, I love Christmas and I am Russian – so snow is the first thing I hate to see disappear – but I need to change the décor around here! Pacific Northwest and I need spring). The thin airy florals like Annick Goutal’s Chevrefeuille or my beloved Fleur de Carotte from L’Artisan seem to require a bright cotton dress and pretty colorful pumps. They need the comfortable, carefree warmth of late spring. Freezing in a cotton dress is not an option when you wear these numbers, fresh like a May breeze.

So, this time of the year I turn to my beloved Magnolia Pourpre from Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, line created by Jean-Françoise Laporte that re-established the idea of “perfume and glove making salons” (yes, they still produce luxurious gloves) where customers lounge around, while the perfumer fills in their orders. Think Boutique de Baldini or, probably better, Salon du Pelissier.

Some scents from this line are new interpretations of traditional perfume themes: rose, iris, jasmine, tuberose, freesia, amber, vetiver, musk, sandalwood, aromatic herbs. Other standouts from Maitre are more complex blends conceived to recreate a particular mood or exotic destinations, such as India (Or des Indes), Brazil (Bahiana), the Nile (Jardin du Nil), or China (Eau de Camelia Chinois).

Magnolia Pourpre is described as white floral with notes of magnolia, jasmine, rose, iris, lavender, white orchid and leather. However, in the case of Magnolia Pourpre I would suggest to forget about the labels. To me, it is not really a white floral. It is more of a honeyed floral, ambery in color and resinous in texture, like thick, clear honey poured over candied flower petals. Also, I would not call it a perfect interpretation of a scent of magnolia flower, as it barely reminds me of a smell of actual magnolias, blossoming each spring under my balcony. Magnolia Pourpre is more of a floral fantasy, capturing the feel of magnolia’s petals: lush, rich, strong, complex, powdery, fresh and opulent at the same time. The perfume is still warming, probably due to leather and honey notes, but it has a gorgeous floral accord that carries the promise of impeding riot of blossoms and smells. Magnolia Pourpre is the perfect “transition” perfume as it helps me make peace with this finicky time of the year.

By Elena Singh

Entry Filed under: Guest Blogger, Perfume Reviews