Perfume Review: Muscs Koublai Khan by Serge Lutens
March 5th, 2007
Muscs Koublai Khan is part of the exclusive Serge Lutens collection available only at the boutique in Paris. Its exclusivity should never be considered as an obstacle*, however, and every self-respecting perfume fanatic absolutely must try this scent. “Luminous and feline”, the only two and very fitting adjectives used in its description, Muscs Koublai Khan has become a sort of informal gold standard of stink (or, to be more appropriate, the level of animalic notes) in perfume. Fondly labeled as MKK, it is the ultimate animalic scent brought to olfactory sophistication. It is indeed the Emperor of Musks, in all its ferocious charm.
Upon first contact with skin, Muscs Koublai Khan attacks and takes you captive. It makes no jokes, it doesn’t let go, resistance is futile. The top notes of civet, castoreum, and ambergris are relentless like the breath of a beast. The more you resist, the more it persists. The trick is to stop resisting - the vehement beast will then release its grip and turn into the most amicable little creature. In other words, the scent will do wonders on your skin. On mine, it transforms into a most luxurious, velvety blend. The more I lower my defences and allow it to be itself, the more lovable it becomes. Muscs Koublai Khan’s true character is revealed at this stage, in the drydown, where muted, slightly smoky resinous notes blend in with soft patchouli and cushioned, furry vanilla. Muscs Koublai Khan is my favorite olfactory pet.
Muscs Koublai Khan features the notes of civet, castoerum, costus roots, cistus labdanum, ambergris, Moroccan rose, ambrette seed, vanilla, patchouli.
*The Salons-Shiseido shop does ship to most European countries.
Image source: salons-shiseido.com
Entry Filed under: Perfume Reviews
33 Comments Add your own
1. Leopoldo | March 5th, 2007 at 3:45 am
You’re seduced Ina.
I vacillate on this perfume. In fact, I think I can say rather weakly that I like it, which is rather remarkable for such a love it / loathe it number. Am I strange?
2. Konstantin | March 5th, 2007 at 5:33 am
Oh, I absolutely LOVE this one and it’s been ages since I’ve seen it discussed. On my skin it also transforms but it deso that immediately - I love it from the beginning to the end and I never resisted. In fact, it was love at first sniff and it’s been a couple of years since the first encounter.
3. aliki | March 5th, 2007 at 6:44 am
Unfortunately, this has been the most desastrous experience ever… The very first- and last - time I tried it on my skin, I was trying to guess how animalic it would go, since I was already fealing the hay inside the zebras cage of a very poor circus, when my husband comes into the room complaining that our cats had peed inside the house… Then he realized I was the one badly stinking. I shall never forget his face of repugnance. Needless to say I could not wash it off and had to live with it for 24h approximately.
4. newproducts | March 5th, 2007 at 7:21 am
I still have not tried this one. To be honest, I have been putting off trying it, but as a “self-respecting perfume fanatic” I suppose I must at least try it.
5. Elle | March 5th, 2007 at 7:44 am
“My favorite olfactory pet.” *Love* that! And it’s mine as well. Truly gorgeous skank.
6. Marina | March 5th, 2007 at 8:02 am
Resistance is indeed futile!
You know, I don’t find it that stinky anymore. I mean, yes, it is still animalic, but as I get more and more familiar with it, it is turning from an unwashed Mongol soldier into a rather urbane, probably French, charmer 
7. March | March 5th, 2007 at 8:11 am
What Marina said
It terrified me for awhile there. But past the first 10 - 15 minutes it softens up so beautifully. I think my patch tolerance is a lot higher than it used to be, which helps.
8. Judith | March 5th, 2007 at 8:26 am
One of the all-time scents: I find it really addictive–and it’s fun to layer with pretty much everything. Interestingly, while I smell skank on myself, DH doesn’t smell it; when I asked him if he got lions and tigers and bears, he looked at me strangely and said “no, it’s sweet; I like it.” (Of course, when I asked him what Rose Poivree smelled like, wondering whether he would come up with “unwashed testicles,” he said “I don’t know, but it’s something VERY pretty. . .”"
9. Patty | March 5th, 2007 at 9:05 am
It really is a wonder. I always assumed I would hate it, but I adore the little darling.
10. Tamara | March 5th, 2007 at 11:06 am
I couldn’t agree more Ina. The dry down is so cozy. It’s my “bad girl” scent.
11. Julia | March 5th, 2007 at 11:06 am
I’m everything but a shy little rose but MKK can suddenly make me blush. MKK is like a dark and handsome lover who just asked you to do something very naughty. Me likes a lot!
12. tmp00 | March 5th, 2007 at 12:41 pm
I don’t know what I was expecting with this one- I’d heard it talked up so much that when I finally smelled it, it sort of went right over my little round head. I loved it, but it wasn’t the terrifying thing that I thought it was going to be. I also think that I tend to neuter musk- the most feral of scents turn to mewling kittens on me. But I do love and adore this one: I’ve bored you all with the machinations I’ve gone through to get a bell jar..
13. Ina | March 5th, 2007 at 12:45 pm
Leo, tsk, tsk. I’m afraid you are.
There’s a good chance you’re simply still resisting. 
14. Ina | March 5th, 2007 at 12:46 pm
Konstantin, I figured I must write about it - no perfume blog should ever be MKK-less. Glad you love it so!
15. Ina | March 5th, 2007 at 12:47 pm
Aliki, yikes! I know what you mean, though. I think musk in general can smell either good or bad on people, depending on your skin chemistry. If it’s bad, it can be *really* bad, especially if it’s animalic musk. Kiehl’s Musk comes to mind. It smells like urine on some, and totally divine on others.
16. Ina | March 5th, 2007 at 12:47 pm
Minsun, but of course!
17. Ina | March 5th, 2007 at 12:56 pm
Elle, gorgeous skank it is.
18. Ina | March 5th, 2007 at 12:57 pm
Marina, French or not, it is a charmer.
I’ve actually smelled MKK on another woman once, and I can’t even tell you how absolutely amazing it smelled! No stink whatsoever.
19. Ina | March 5th, 2007 at 12:58 pm
March, I hated it the first time I tried it as well. Now I can’t be without MKK.
20. Ina | March 5th, 2007 at 12:58 pm
Judith, oh, MKK is a great layerer! LOL at your DH’s response. Mine said it smelled like a dirty old man. Eep!
21. Ina | March 5th, 2007 at 12:59 pm
Patty, “the little darling” - how fitting!
22. Ina | March 5th, 2007 at 12:59 pm
Tamara, “bad girl” scent - perfect! It’s also become my comfort scent lately.
23. Ina | March 5th, 2007 at 1:00 pm
Julia, LOL! Yep, that too.
24. Ina | March 5th, 2007 at 1:01 pm
Tom, you never bore us, darling.
I’m still living off of decants but I see a bell jar in my future…
25. violetnoir | March 5th, 2007 at 1:46 pm
Oh dear!
I smelled this once on the wax sample that SL provides, and promptly wretched.
But, dearest Ina, you make this sound so irresistible, I may have to take a full-on plunge.
Hugs!
26. Ina | March 5th, 2007 at 4:16 pm
Robin, I’m afraid the wax sample won’t do it here.
27. minette | March 5th, 2007 at 4:39 pm
i have loved this perfume since first sniff. it is like a golden elixir for the skin. i feel like i’m inhaling the fumes of a fine cognac or liqueur when i take the stopper off the bee bottle. and on skin it is rich and intoxicating. definitely want a full bottle of this - am hoarding the half-ounce i got from diane at dragonflyblue.
28. Ina | March 5th, 2007 at 5:05 pm
Minette, “a golden elixir” - perfect description! It is indeed intoxicating.
29. Solander | March 6th, 2007 at 3:59 am
I never hated it, but I was pretty neutral to it at first because it didn’t smell “good”. I think of dead animals rather than live ones, and before you imagine roadkills, let me add that I mean the barbecued variety. Yes, savoury spices and dripping fat. Then I realised how addictice and sensual it is and now I love it for those qualities. I never noticed the pretty drydown, but it is pretty discrete and close to the skin. It is a sort of comfort scent maybe, but a sexual comfort scent. More evocative than a “complete” perfume to wear. If I was going out in public, I think I’d rather reach for L’air de rien - MKK with oakmoss and a hint of floral - or Jicky - MKK with lavender and fern.
30. Ina | March 6th, 2007 at 10:18 am
Tove, yikes, what an association!
But I loved your descriptions of L’Air de Rien adn Jicky - right on!
31. Aromascope » Bois B&hellip | March 12th, 2007 at 10:19 pm
[…] L’Ombre Fauve doesn’t quite inspire too much eloquence. This doesn’t have as much to do with its composition as with its effect. For a scent described as “bestial” and “feline”, it’s rather feeble. Once again, the good old MKK serves as a measuring tool, and the result is hardly animalic. L’Ombre Fauve is a somewhat mediocre blend of patchouli, amber, musk, and woods. It neither impresses nor disappoints. It sort of leaves me wanting for more action, more character. Instead, what I smell is a soft, slightly sweet, ambery patchouli. […]
32. Aromascope » Courte&hellip | June 4th, 2007 at 10:54 pm
[…] mouth-watering fruity (think raspberry souffle!) musk that reminds me of the outwardly brutal Muscs Koublai Khan’s more angelic, lovable nature. Courtesan possesses a quiet, unobtrusive sillage reminiscent of the […]
33. Aromascope » Tagged&hellip | August 5th, 2007 at 9:43 pm
[…] Sunshine of the Spotless Mind - one of my absolute favorite movies. I’m thinking Muscs Koublai Khan by Serge Lutens - complex, twisted, and heart-warmingly down to […]
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