Perfume Review: Muscs Koublai Khan by Serge Lutens
Muscs Koublai Khan is part of the exclusive Serge Lutens collection available only at the boutique in Paris. Its exclusivity should never be considered as an obstacle*, however, and every self-respecting perfume fanatic absolutely must try this scent. “Luminous and feline”, the only two and very fitting adjectives used in its description, Muscs Koublai Khan has become a sort of informal gold standard of stink (or, to be more appropriate, the level of animalic notes) in perfume. Fondly labeled as MKK, it is the ultimate animalic scent brought to olfactory sophistication. It is indeed the Emperor of Musks, in all its ferocious charm.
Upon first contact with skin, Muscs Koublai Khan attacks and takes you captive. It makes no jokes, it doesn’t let go, resistance is futile. The top notes of civet, castoreum, and ambergris are relentless like the breath of a beast. The more you resist, the more it persists. The trick is to stop resisting - the vehement beast will then release its grip and turn into the most amicable little creature. In other words, the scent will do wonders on your skin. On mine, it transforms into a most luxurious, velvety blend. The more I lower my defences and allow it to be itself, the more lovable it becomes. Muscs Koublai Khan’s true character is revealed at this stage, in the drydown, where muted, slightly smoky resinous notes blend in with soft patchouli and cushioned, furry vanilla. Muscs Koublai Khan is my favorite olfactory pet.
Muscs Koublai Khan features the notes of civet, castoerum, costus roots, cistus labdanum, ambergris, Moroccan rose, ambrette seed, vanilla, patchouli.
*The Salons-Shiseido shop does ship to most European countries.
Image source: salons-shiseido.com
33 comments March 5th, 2007