Perfume Review: Philtre d’Amour by Guerlain
March 1st, 2007
Philtre d’Amour was first released as a limited edition scent in 1999 and has recently become part of Les Parisiennes collection (available only at the Guerlain flagship store in Paris). As much as I adore Guerlain and have tried most of their perfumes, Philtre d’Amour had somehow managed to escape me. I knew it was a lemon scent, and somehow that combined with the name Guerlain didn’t sound very promising. One valuable lesson I’ve learned in my perfume addiction years is to never give in to your prejudices. In other words, smell as much as you can, smell everything, even if it doesn’t sound potentially good. The lesson is particularly priceless when it comes to limited edition fragrances - if you pass on the opportunity to smell it while it’s here, you might have to pay an arm and a leg in the future. In this case, I didn’t have to (thank goodness for eBay!) But you get my point.
Philtre d’Amour is indeed a lemon scent but there’s more to it than that. It’s a hesperidic (citrus) chypre. Its beginning is a literal overflow of all things citrus - tart and juicy lemon, bergamot, mandarin. The effect is so bright it’s borderline pungent. Since it’s a chypre, there has to be oakmoss. It seems to show up quite a bit later, somewhat towards the drydown, bringing out a completely different facet - green and slightly dry. Jasmine and rose become more apparent in the heart, tinged by soft geranium. The best part of Philtre d’Amour is the drydown - it’s more complex and embracingly warm and sort of bitter-powdery. Philtre d’Amour is without doubt the most interesting lemon scent I’ve ever encountered. Another lesson learned: never doubt Guerlain.
Philtre d’Amour features the notes of mandarin, lemon, bergamot, myrtle, oakmoss, lily, carnation, jasmine, iris, musk, rose, coriander, geranium, sandalwood, amber, patchouli.
P.S. Some might disagree with the doubting Guerlain statement. I know, I know. L’Instant and Insolence haven’t necessarily lived up to our expectations. Ah, but who doesn’t make mistakes?
Image source: courtesy of Perfume-Smellin’ Things
Entry Filed under: Perfume Reviews
20 Comments Add your own
1. Victoria | March 2nd, 2007 at 1:12 am
I never doubt Guerlain.
Considering that Guerlan had more than 600 releases over the course of its history, can I really expect every single release to be Mitsouko? The time will tell what will stay and what will fall by the wayside. Then again, I actually own and wear Insolence and L’Instant in the extrait. I think that they are pretty, even if not monumental. And if they bring new generation to the Guerlain counter and help them discover other gems, I am all for it. 
2. chayaruchama | March 2nd, 2007 at 6:27 am
OHHH, Inushka-
I’m excited !
You have got my ear [ and my nose, and my heart…].
Where do I go for this ?
Will they have it in NY, at the Sniffa ?
[It’s too early in the am for this much fun]
Does this remind you of Alpona, on any level ?
MWAH
3. Judith | March 2nd, 2007 at 7:16 am
Despite my citrusphobia, I actually own this, and enjoy it very much. I agree that the drydown is the best part.
4. March | March 2nd, 2007 at 7:55 am
Ina — actually, I blame all this on Marina. I decided I *had* to have the 1999 version and did, in fact, spend stupid money (per oz) on eBay for it out of desperation. You captured it beautifully!
5. Elle | March 2nd, 2007 at 8:01 am
You’re absolutely right - this is indeed the most interesting lemon scent around. However, am still not absolutely sure I need it. I’ll try it one day and am ready to declare permanent love. However, before I can snag a bottle on ebay, I’ll try it again and it will produce no magic on my skin that day. A mystery. But a budget saving mystery, so I’m not quibbling.
6. Marina | March 2nd, 2007 at 9:04 am
I won’t doubt Guerlain just yet. But one more Insolence from them, and I will start getting worried
I love Philtre d’Amour too. I thought the reissued version, which is now part of Les Parisiennes series, wasn’t bad at all, in fact, not that much different. Maybe less powdery.
7. Gaia | March 2nd, 2007 at 11:13 am
The sound you’ve just heard was me running to ebay in search of this one
8. Ina | March 2nd, 2007 at 9:53 pm
Vika, I agree! I’m yet to try Insolence in extrait.
9. Ina | March 2nd, 2007 at 9:53 pm
Chaya, as far as I know, only in Paris and ebay. I suggest European ebay.
10. Ina | March 2nd, 2007 at 9:53 pm
Judith, you played an important part here.
11. Ina | March 2nd, 2007 at 10:17 pm
March, thanks to your sample!
This should be more widely available.
12. Ina | March 2nd, 2007 at 10:17 pm
Elle, it’s done that to me as well. But I still love it.
13. Ina | March 2nd, 2007 at 10:18 pm
Marina, I need to try the reissue version.
14. Ina | March 2nd, 2007 at 10:18 pm
Gaia, hope you get it!
15. Jeanne Marie Auclair | March 3rd, 2007 at 7:21 am
I loved reading your interpretation.
I am SO intrigued by the Guerlains now!
16. newproducts | March 3rd, 2007 at 9:01 am
Hmmm, a citrus heavy scent that I can love? Is it possible?? Actually, I really enjoyed Mona di Orio’s Lux, so I don’t doubt that Guerlain can do it.
17. Ina | March 3rd, 2007 at 10:56 pm
Jeanne, thank you! Guerlains are absolute gems.
18. Ina | March 3rd, 2007 at 10:56 pm
Minsun, if you loved Lux, you’ll love Philtre d’Amour.
19. MarkDavid | March 9th, 2007 at 12:57 pm
Ina!, this post is a few days old but I had to comment b/c this is my first time to your blog (I have no idea why I’ve not been here before) and I’m wearing PdA right now. I bought my bottle in 99 at EPCOT center in Florida. I actually bought it for my mother for christmas but then when I noticed she wasn’t wearing it I asked her if she liked it and she said no. Well, I took it and I’ve been wearing it ever since - sparingly b/c I cant shell out a few hundred to replace it just yet. I haven’t tried the re-issue, yet. I will one day! Thanks for reviewing this, one of my favorites!!
20. Ina | March 9th, 2007 at 9:29 pm
MarkDavid, glad you love it so much! It’s not that pricey on eBay, by the way. My bottle was dirt cheap but I highly recommend checking European eBay.
Welcome to Aromascope!
Leave a Comment
Some HTML allowed:
<a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <code> <em> <i> <strike> <strong>
Trackback this post | Subscribe to the comments via RSS Feed