Archive for February 16th, 2007

Perfume Review: Dianthus by Etro

Etro DianthusDianthus is the newest addition to the Etro fragrance line. I love Etro fashion, with a particular weakness for their paisley scarves. Alas, I can’t say the same for their fragrances. With the exception of Messe de Minuit and perhaps Shaal Nur, I find most of them a little on the insipid side. The news of Dianthus gave me some hope as it’s a carnation based scent, and I simply adore carnation in perfume. Carnation works best in floral oriental compositions such as my favorite Metalys by Guerlain, Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, Poivre by Caron. When done as a soliflore, it is much less appealing, with the exception of Oeillet Sauvage by L’Artisan Parfumeur. I mistakenly assumed Dianthus would be fall into the latter category but a simple carnation scent it is not.

Dianthus opens up with a gentle blend of carnation and rose that’s almost immediately spiced up by red pepper giving the composition a fiery feel. Red pepper seems to be the second leading note. Its interplay with carnation is accentuated by dusty cedar in the drydown. What I like about Dianthus is its dual nature: it’s bright and moderately dark simultaneously. The scent is well-blended and has a certain appeal. Sadly, I find it a little flat, with not much development or sillage. However, it is a nice scent, and a must try for carnation lovers. Dianthus features the notes of carnation, rose, red pepper, orange, cedarwood, musk.

Dianthus can be purchased at Aedes.

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