Archive for January, 2007
While reading the Perfume Legends book, a chapter on Poison in particular, I came across an interesting and thought-provoking quote. Edouard Flechier, Poison’s creator, while explaining the long-term process of creating the scent, said the following, “Today, I do not think it would be possible to go as far as we did with Poison. The new perfumes are tame by comparison. I think that’s why Poison has become a classic, because all the classics have an extreme dosage of some component. Consider Chanel No 5 (1921), for example, with its overdose of aldehydes; Vent Vert (1947) with its jolt of galbanum; or Shalimar (1925) with its signature of ethyl vanillin. I think that a classic is characterised by an overdose of either an ingredient or an accord.” (p. 227)
I must say I’ve never thought of it this way but it makes sense, doesn’t it? What makes perfume a classic, in your opinion?
Image source: www.imagesdeparfums.perso.orange.fr
January 16th, 2007
It looks like the weather has finally chosen to get back to winter (which is always the case in January), and we had our first so-called snow storm in weeks - lovely snow flakes which turned into water as soon as they touched the ground. I grabbed my warmest fleece scarf, wrapped it around my neck twice, and bravely marched the streets of Chicago (I proudly choose walking over public transport). Needless to say, I didn’t go scentless. As I was relishing in the warmth of my fleece scarf, I craved an olfactory equivalent of that sensation and picked none other than Dior’s Eau Noire, probably the most “fleece-like” scent I know.
Eau Noire is part of the cologne trio (Bois d’Argent and Cologne Blanche being the other two), created under the direction of Dior’s men’s clothing designer Hedi Slimane by Francis Kurkdjian. These colognes are brilliantly made, with unique compositions that are both classic and modern, and can be worn both by men and women (and then some!) Eau Noire seems to be the most fitting for winter with its warm, bitter-sweet effect. It features such typical for men’s colognes notes as thyme, sage, lavender, and cedar. In Eau Noire, however, the result is far from crisp and well-groomed. Thanks to immortelle and vanilla pairing, it has a slightly sweet, curry-like accord in which the lavender and herbs are simmering. It’s both cozy and elegant, and can be easily dressed up or down. I simply adore it!
Eau Noire is available at Neiman Marucs, Saks, and eLuxury.
Image source: www.eluxury.com
January 16th, 2007
Rousse is the newest addition to the Serge Lutens export fragrance line due for official release in February of this year. Rumor has it the scent was inspired by the finale of Mylene Farmer’s show “Avant Que L’Ombre”, particularly her haute couture dress designed by Franck Sorbier (”rousse” meaning “red-haired”). True or false, it makes no difference to me as there’s nothing particularly evocative or noteworthy in that finale neither does Rousse conjure up images of redheads. On the contrary, it’s a scent of honeyed, golden hues, very much in the spirit of Serge Lutens.
Rousse is all about cinnamon. Not as gourmand and vanilla-heavy as, say, Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium or Fendi’s Theorema. In Rousse, cinnamon is first illuminated by mandarin, enriched by carnation later, and polished by amber and sandalwood in the drydown. Picture Feminite du Bois by Shiseido minus the dried fruit accord and slightly less cedar. As much as I love Serge Lutens fragrances, most of them have a conceptual appeal (which simply means I find it hard to wear them). Rousse seems to be the exception. Not only does it strike me as wonderfully blended and very much wearable but also takes the first place among the latest Serge Lutens offerings, i.e., Chypre Rouge and Mandarine-Mandarin.
Rousse features the notes of mandarin, cinnamon, carnation, cedar, sandalwood, violet, vanilla, amber, resins.
Image source: www.femina.fr
January 14th, 2007
Basenotes has announced the nominations for the 7th Annual Basenotes Fragrance Awards sponsored by Aedes de Venustas. The nominees were voted by Basenotes visitors at the end of 2006. Winners will be announced in February 2007. Be sure to check out the nominees! There’s a new category this year for the Best Fragrance Blog, and I’m very grateful to see Aromascope nominated. Thank you!
January 12th, 2007
Plus Que Jamais (Now, More Than Ever) was created by Jean-Paul Guerlain on the occasion of the reopening of La Maison Guerlain on 68 Champs-Elysees. Now, more than ever, Guerlain is my favorite perfume house. I’ve come to appreciate its classic jewels such as Mitsouko, Jicky, L’Heure Bleue… Their recent releases, Bois d’Armenie, Cuir Beluga, Metalys, have quickly become an integral part of my fragrance wardrobe. Then came Plus Que Jamais with its polished, voluptuous, regal beauty and left me all weak in the knees. Now, more than ever, I cannot escape its charms and neither am willing to.
What Guerlain does, none other can do, and the scent is a perfect example. Plus Que Jamais masterfully combines the classic floral-oriental elements with the modern gourmand trend, all while maintaining its own unique identity. Its top notes of bergamot, ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine are drenched in toffee syrup; its warm and velvety heart has a crystallized orris accord; its drydown is tonka bean infused amber and a hint of vetiver. In simple terms, it’s sophisticated toffee candy. It manages to be both frivolous and solemn. Plus Que Jamais conjures up warm, caramel hues, like this chic Yves Saint Laurent dress that’s also both classic and contemporary:
Plus Que Jamais features the notes of lemon, bergamot, ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine, orris, vanilla, amber, tonka bean, vetiver. It can be purchased from the Guerlain boutique in Paris.
Please visit Perfume-Smellin’ Things to find out Marina’s take on the matter.
Image source: www.prodimarques.com, www.style.com
January 12th, 2007
A few weeks ago I woke up, and said to my husband that I felt like I didn’t do enough to deal with “winter dandrums”. “Doldrums, dear”, he corrected me, as we both cracked up laughing. Whichever it is, about this time in winter you realize it’s actually barely started, even though it seems like we’ve had enough of this cold (although, I can’t complain this year). This is also the time when a tropical vacation isn’t just a nice thought any more, and you start craving the sunshine. If real sunshine isn’t an option, you look for it in perfume, naturally. Ensoleille Moi, the new perfume by Andre Gas, a famous French jewelry maker, promises just that - “liquid sunshine” and the scent of the tropics.
“Sunbathe me” it demands, with the notes of tiare, bergamot, ylang-ylang, coconut, vanilla, white musk, and sunbathe you it does. You find yourself lying in the scorching sun, by the water, with heavy-duty coconut-vanilla sunblock all over you. Everything is right with the world again, except it’s way more sun than you can handle, way more water than you need, and the smell of the sunblock is simply overbearing. This goes on for hours, and there’s no escape. Theoretically, I should have loved Ensoleille Moi but I cannot help but scream, “Tone it down!” as I flee the imaginary beach. After all, the scent is created by Mathilde Laurent, the nose of Guerlain’s magnificent Guet-Apens and crafty Guerlain No 68. Alas, it’s simply too much, and I’d rather save the dollars and go to the tanning booth instead.
Ensoleille Moi is available at Beautyhabit. For more information, please check Andre Gas Parfums.
Image source: www.vogue.fr
January 10th, 2007
In case you didn’t know, fragrant things do come from the Baltics. I’m not just talking about Dzintars (that probably had its best days back in the Soviet times). I’m referring to the country just south of my dear homeland, namely, its native, Juozas Statkevicius, a world famous Lithuanian fashion and theater costumer designer, and his signature scent. Shame on me for my ignorance - I knew nothing of him or his designs until I tried the scent (in this case, a celebrity scent revealed the celebrity). Juozas Statkevicius perfume is a reason enough to travel to Latvia so you can make a side trip to Vilnius (a mere few hour drive) to visit his boutique and smell/purchase this amazing scent.
Juozas Statkevicius perfume, quite honestly, shocked me. An incense scent for elegant, feminine with a flair designs? Bravo! About time someone breaks the cycle of ultra-fruity-floralness (extra credit for that someone being from the Baltics). The scent contrasts “shadow and light, past and modernity, simplicity and complexity, power and softness”, and I couldn’t agree more. Created by Fabrice Pellegrin (Caleche Eau Delicate, Diptyque Do Son), it’s everything I want an incense perfume to be: it has enough density, moldiness, spice, and sweetness to make it dark, mysterious, and very easy to wear. It’s incense with a soft dried fruit accord and an aromatic ambery drydown. It’s a love child of Etro’s Messe de Minuit and Paco Rabanne’s Black XS.
Juozas Statkevicius perfume features the notes of incense, jasmine, patchouli, coriander, vanilla, benzoin, musk, amber, cashmere wood. To my knowledge, it can only be purchased from the Vilnius boutique (time to write a petition?)
Image source: www.oberon.ru
January 10th, 2007
A very short post today - a mini poll of two questions:
- What’s the best perfume you’ve smelled in the last few days and why?
- What’s the worst perfume you’ve smelled in the last few days and why?
My own answers: the best perfume I’ve smelled recently is the signature scent for the Lithuanian fashion designer, Juozas Statkevicius (or Josef Statkus) - a hip spicy incense. Review to come soon. The worst scent is probably Ensolleile Moi by Andre Gas (available at Beautyhabit now), a tiare based floral with a smothering effect. Both are initial impressions, with further testing necessary.
January 9th, 2007
Exclusivity seems to be the trend in contemporary perfumery, and, while I have no strong opinions on the subject, I can’t help but wonder if the term can be somewhat misused. For a language nerd as myself, it’s only fair it should imply not only the hard-to-obtain factor but also the one of a kind, distinguishing character. Indult perfumes is yet another perfume line that chose this route, “for people who appreciate the feeling of exclusivity”. There’re three fragrances, all created by my favorite Francis Kurkdjian (”create trends, never follow them” is his secret), each being released in 999 bottles as we speak (which is a total coincidence with my review) only at French Sephora stores. As I share my impressions, I’ll use a ranking system (on a scale of 1 to 10) of originality and noteworthiness.
Isvaraya (a fantasy of India, means “divine”) is based around patchouli, jasmine, and Indian plum trees. The scent is my favorite of the line for its complex character and fulfilling on the promise of exclusivity. The patchouli here is soaked in caramelized jasmine, cardamom, and a perhaps a hint of milky sandalwood. Isvaraya reminds me of another Kurkdjian’s creation, MDCI #3, perhaps a bit watered down and with less presence. Exclusivity rank - 9 out of 10.
Tihota (”sugar” in Polynesian) basically smells like burnt sugar which is usually enough to turn me off. In this case, however, it’s not cloyingly sweet a la Aquolina Pink Sugar and is actually quite pleasant. It has a soft smoky-woody undertone that adds more character and appeal. Even though Tihota is a very wearable gourmand skin scent, it’s rather linear and definitely not original. If it were up to me, I’d make it more “boozy”. The exclusivity rank - well, perhaps 5 out of 10.
Manakara - named after a Madagascar area famous for the most beautiful litchis in the world, the scent is a blend of rose and litchi. It’s a toned down fruity floral with a sweet, caramel-like undertone and a soft musky, non-cloying drydown. The rose is quite prominent, and the litchi seems to accentuate it instead of overpowering the entire composition which is a good thing. Manakara is pretty but it seems to lack complexity and character for my taste. The exclusivity rank - 6 out of 10.
For more purchasing information, please check Indult online.
Image source: www.indult.fr
January 8th, 2007
I’m happy to announce that I’m now a proud owner of Perfume Legends, a wonderful comprehensive anthology of modern perfumery. The book is written by Michael Edwards, a perfume evaluator and author of a web-based fragrance encyclopedia, Fragrances of the World.Info, as well as U.S. Fragrance Foundation Fragrance Directory, an automated online fragrance finder. Perfume Legends starts out with a chapter called “The Dawn of Modern Perfumery” and progresses into a detailed overview of various perfumes the selection of which is based on three criteria, according to Michael Edwards, “an accord so innovative that it inspired other compositions; an impact so profound that it shaped a new trend; and an appeal that is likely to transcend the whims of fashion.” As I read the book, I plan to share with you my impressions as well as things I find fascinating or new to me.
In 1889, Aime Guerlain created Jicky which is regarded as “the first modern perfume because it was the first sophisticated composition” as opposed to linear floral waters that had been favored earlier. It was also the second perfume that combined natural and synthetic ingredients (the first one was Fougere Royale by Houbigant). In Jicky, the synthetic components are coumarin (derived from tonka beans) and vanillin (derived from the vanilla pod). The first time I tried Jicky, it struck me as a very sophisticated lavender scent with a warm, animalic drydown. It seemed so classic, yet so contemporary. Jicky was also one of the first Guerlains I smelled, when my nose was still not quite developed to appreciate vintage beauties. I have since put it aside focusing on and being enamored by other Guerlain gems like Mitsouko or Samsara. But after reading a chapter on Jicky in Perfume Legends, I’m overcome by a longing to acquire Jicky, especially in parfum.
Jicky features the notes of lavender, bergamot, rosemary, rosewood, geranium, jasmine, rose, tonka bean, opopanax, vanilla, coumarin.
Have you been inspired to revisit a perfume lately?
Image source: www.amazon.com, www.cosma-parfumeries.com
January 5th, 2007
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