Indult Fragrances
January 8th, 2007
Exclusivity seems to be the trend in contemporary perfumery, and, while I have no strong opinions on the subject, I can’t help but wonder if the term can be somewhat misused. For a language nerd as myself, it’s only fair it should imply not only the hard-to-obtain factor but also the one of a kind, distinguishing character. Indult perfumes is yet another perfume line that chose this route, “for people who appreciate the feeling of exclusivity”. There’re three fragrances, all created by my favorite Francis Kurkdjian (”create trends, never follow them” is his secret), each being released in 999 bottles as we speak (which is a total coincidence with my review) only at French Sephora stores. As I share my impressions, I’ll use a ranking system (on a scale of 1 to 10) of originality and noteworthiness.
Isvaraya (a fantasy of India, means “divine”) is based around patchouli, jasmine, and Indian plum trees. The scent is my favorite of the line for its complex character and fulfilling on the promise of exclusivity. The patchouli here is soaked in caramelized jasmine, cardamom, and a perhaps a hint of milky sandalwood. Isvaraya reminds me of another Kurkdjian’s creation, MDCI #3, perhaps a bit watered down and with less presence. Exclusivity rank - 9 out of 10.
Tihota (”sugar” in Polynesian) basically smells like burnt sugar which is usually enough to turn me off. In this case, however, it’s not cloyingly sweet a la Aquolina Pink Sugar and is actually quite pleasant. It has a soft smoky-woody undertone that adds more character and appeal. Even though Tihota is a very wearable gourmand skin scent, it’s rather linear and definitely not original. If it were up to me, I’d make it more “boozy”. The exclusivity rank - well, perhaps 5 out of 10.
Manakara - named after a Madagascar area famous for the most beautiful litchis in the world, the scent is a blend of rose and litchi. It’s a toned down fruity floral with a sweet, caramel-like undertone and a soft musky, non-cloying drydown. The rose is quite prominent, and the litchi seems to accentuate it instead of overpowering the entire composition which is a good thing. Manakara is pretty but it seems to lack complexity and character for my taste. The exclusivity rank - 6 out of 10.
For more purchasing information, please check Indult online.
Image source: www.indult.fr
Entry Filed under: New Perfumes, Perfume Reviews
14 Comments Add your own
1. Leopoldo | January 8th, 2007 at 3:27 am
Okay so I’ll try the Medici number (the original Florentine Mafia?) before any of these, but if I’m in Paris in May and they’re still languishing on Sephora’s shelves (behind glass? On a rotating platform? With armed guards?) I’ll sniff em.
2. Judith | January 8th, 2007 at 7:09 am
I see the similarity to MDCI #3, and I think I like that better b/c I don’t pick up the fruit. So far, my favorite Indult is Isvaraya + Tihota.
3. newproducts | January 8th, 2007 at 8:29 am
Indult Isvaraya sounds good, but I don’t dare let it grow into a lemming, seeing how exclusive (read: unattainable for me) these are.
4. March | January 8th, 2007 at 9:54 am
I tried them all again this weekend, including the Marina/Judith thing of layering Tihota and Isvaraya. Man, maybe it’s skin chemistry? Nothing happens. The vanilla is nice, but still… however, I’m working my way through the FK MDCI’s right now, there’s an interesting juxtaposition — they are SO much more appealing.
5. Marina | January 8th, 2007 at 11:52 am
Agree with everything, except that I would give 10 out of 10 to Isvaraya and 7,5 out of ten to Tihota.
I am leaning towards liking MDCI K/3 more…but just a tiny little bit more. I’d love to own both.
6. Gaia, the non-blonde | January 8th, 2007 at 9:38 pm
I should be happy that I don’t need to plan a trip to Paris around these. I have so many other sniffing plans as it is, but I can’t help wishing that when I go in the spring the Next Big Thing would be releases.
7. Ina | January 9th, 2007 at 3:35 pm
Leo, you crack me up. I really hope they’re still there!
8. Ina | January 9th, 2007 at 3:35 pm
Judith, I haven’t tried layering them yet but will do so soon.
9. Ina | January 9th, 2007 at 3:36 pm
Newproducts, I always hesitate reviewing such exclusive scents for this same reason - I want people to be able to smell them. Oh well.
10. Ina | January 9th, 2007 at 3:36 pm
March, I agree. MDCI are way more appealing and deserve the exclusivity label.
11. Ina | January 9th, 2007 at 3:37 pm
Marina, I’d love to own them both, too! But MDCI #3 much more.
12. Ina | January 9th, 2007 at 3:38 pm
Gaia, lucky you! You’ll have to report on all the new releases.
13. Elle | January 9th, 2007 at 6:16 pm
Hmmm….if Isvaraya’s a watered down version of #3, I think I’d rather have the full bodied version. Besides, I really like the owner of MDCI. The other two definitely sound like passes.
14. Ina | January 10th, 2007 at 12:13 am
Elle, I second your sentiments.
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