Indult Fragrances
Exclusivity seems to be the trend in contemporary perfumery, and, while I have no strong opinions on the subject, I can’t help but wonder if the term can be somewhat misused. For a language nerd as myself, it’s only fair it should imply not only the hard-to-obtain factor but also the one of a kind, distinguishing character. Indult perfumes is yet another perfume line that chose this route, “for people who appreciate the feeling of exclusivity”. There’re three fragrances, all created by my favorite Francis Kurkdjian (“create trends, never follow them” is his secret), each being released in 999 bottles as we speak (which is a total coincidence with my review) only at French Sephora stores. As I share my impressions, I’ll use a ranking system (on a scale of 1 to 10) of originality and noteworthiness.
Isvaraya (a fantasy of India, means “divine”) is based around patchouli, jasmine, and Indian plum trees. The scent is my favorite of the line for its complex character and fulfilling on the promise of exclusivity. The patchouli here is soaked in caramelized jasmine, cardamom, and a perhaps a hint of milky sandalwood. Isvaraya reminds me of another Kurkdjian’s creation, MDCI #3, perhaps a bit watered down and with less presence. Exclusivity rank – 9 out of 10.
Tihota (“sugar” in Polynesian) basically smells like burnt sugar which is usually enough to turn me off. In this case, however, it’s not cloyingly sweet a la Aquolina Pink Sugar and is actually quite pleasant. It has a soft smoky-woody undertone that adds more character and appeal. Even though Tihota is a very wearable gourmand skin scent, it’s rather linear and definitely not original. If it were up to me, I’d make it more “boozy”. The exclusivity rank – well, perhaps 5 out of 10.
Manakara – named after a Madagascar area famous for the most beautiful litchis in the world, the scent is a blend of rose and litchi. It’s a toned down fruity floral with a sweet, caramel-like undertone and a soft musky, non-cloying drydown. The rose is quite prominent, and the litchi seems to accentuate it instead of overpowering the entire composition which is a good thing. Manakara is pretty but it seems to lack complexity and character for my taste. The exclusivity rank – 6 out of 10.
For more purchasing information, please check Indult online.
Image source: www.indult.fr
14 comments January 8th, 2007