Perfume Legends by Michael Edwards
January 5th, 2007
I’m happy to announce that I’m now a proud owner of Perfume Legends, a wonderful comprehensive anthology of modern perfumery. The book is written by Michael Edwards, a perfume evaluator and author of a web-based fragrance encyclopedia, Fragrances of the World.Info, as well as U.S. Fragrance Foundation Fragrance Directory, an automated online fragrance finder. Perfume Legends starts out with a chapter called “The Dawn of Modern Perfumery” and progresses into a detailed overview of various perfumes the selection of which is based on three criteria, according to Michael Edwards, “an accord so innovative that it inspired other compositions; an impact so profound that it shaped a new trend; and an appeal that is likely to transcend the whims of fashion.” As I read the book, I plan to share with you my impressions as well as things I find fascinating or new to me.
In 1889, Aime Guerlain created Jicky which is regarded as “the first modern perfume because it was the first sophisticated composition” as opposed to linear floral waters that had been favored earlier. It was also the second perfume that combined natural and synthetic ingredients (the first one was Fougere Royale by Houbigant). In Jicky, the synthetic components are coumarin (derived from tonka beans) and vanillin (derived from the vanilla pod). The first time I tried Jicky, it struck me as a very sophisticated lavender scent with a warm, animalic drydown. It seemed so classic, yet so contemporary. Jicky was also one of the first Guerlains I smelled, when my nose was still not quite developed to appreciate vintage beauties. I have since put it aside focusing on and being enamored by other Guerlain gems like Mitsouko or Samsara. But after reading a chapter on Jicky in Perfume Legends, I’m overcome by a longing to acquire Jicky, especially in parfum.
Jicky features the notes of lavender, bergamot, rosemary, rosewood, geranium, jasmine, rose, tonka bean, opopanax, vanilla, coumarin.
Have you been inspired to revisit a perfume lately?
Image source: www.amazon.com, www.cosma-parfumeries.com
Entry Filed under: Perfume Reviews, This and That
37 Comments Add your own
1. Flora | January 5th, 2007 at 1:54 am
As a matter of fact, I have - I just got my new bottle of Jean Patou Colony in the mail today. I have not owned this for many years, but I love it, so when I found a discounted bottle to my amazement, I snapped it up. (My very favorite Patou, Vacances, is now going for $500 a bottle and up as it is no longer made, and is a target for bottle collectors. Sob!) This deep, mysterious chypre infused with heady pineapple is liike no other. And no, the pineapple does NOT smell of freshly cut fruit, oh no. That would be too obvious, and too modern. It is more of a pineapple syrup aroma, tantalizing and langourous, yet not too sweet. I can hardly wait to wear it again!
2. Patty | January 5th, 2007 at 6:55 am
All the Guerlains in Parfum. Vol de Nuit is just amazing, as is Mitsouko and Jicky.
3. chaya ruchama | January 5th, 2007 at 7:07 am
I recently revisited many of the Carons and Guerlains, as well as the Molinards- a sort of classics retrospective.
Many, I have to possess because of the memories they evoke so powerfully; others,because their beauty is timeless, and flattering.
Enjoy your new acquisition, babe !
4. Gaia, the non-blonde | January 5th, 2007 at 8:20 am
I haven’t revisited anything of this caliber, but I did went back to find an old favorite of mine, Rykiel’s Le Parfum that I haven’t worn in well over a decade. I feel much more comfortable with it now.
5. Marina | January 5th, 2007 at 8:22 am
Fascinating stuff!! Please share more! I am revistiing and re-revisiting and re-re-revisiting the old Diors. I just love them so. I heart Dior.
6. Leopoldo | January 5th, 2007 at 8:40 am
I love Jicky in parfum. Dreamworthy.
7. Judith | January 5th, 2007 at 9:35 am
Love Jicky–though my favorite is the PdT. Must get perfume legends. Always revisting old scents–even those I never visted in the first place.:)
8. greeneyes | January 5th, 2007 at 10:42 am
Jicky was one of the first Guerlains I wanted to try. I wanted it to work for me, but sadly, it doesn’t…at least not the EDT. PErhaps the parfum would fare better?
Vol de Nuit is unbelievable, but I also am loving Weil Zibelene. I’d like to try Antilope. And I haven’t even ventured into the Carons yet.
9. Elle | January 5th, 2007 at 11:36 am
I really want to be able to love Jicky, but it just won’t work on me w/ that lavender. I’ve recently been revisiting Nocturnes. So underrated.
10. newproducts | January 5th, 2007 at 12:05 pm
I was suddenly taken over by the compulsion to buy Shalimar. I got it at a steal on Scentiments and can’t wait for it to arrive. I wore this in 7th or 8th grade and remember loving it. I wonder if the magic will still be there. I know it has loads of opoponax in it, so I feel predisposed to love it.
11. tmp00 | January 5th, 2007 at 12:09 pm
Yes: Jicky, and you are the one inspiring me to go back and give it a whiff.
12. Cait | January 5th, 2007 at 12:50 pm
I second everyone’s praise for classic perfumes. I have been revisiting Chanel No. 5 which never fails to be exquisite. Jicky is a difficult yet alluring scent. I recently lost my ever-lovin’ mind and bought what appears to be a 40 year old Diorella soap. I can’t come to any fair conclusion about the scent from that!! Have a great day.
13. Morgan | January 5th, 2007 at 1:24 pm
Hey there,
Jicky is my desert Isle frag. It encompasses everything that I love about the art of perfumery. I could never be without it. Love the blog by the way. Maybe we’ll run into eachother some day at barneys or nordies tee hee.
m
14. Victoria | January 5th, 2007 at 4:49 pm
I love reading this book and wearing the fragrance I am reading about. It always give me a whole new appreciation for fragrance.
15. shifts | January 6th, 2007 at 8:24 am
I’ve os far only tried the EdT of Jicky but have a bottle of the EdP on it’s way. Same with Mitsouko. The only one I’ve tried (and own) is Mitsouko, but I guess the EdP is one order away now.
Keep the snippets coming now!
16. Ina | January 6th, 2007 at 1:38 pm
Flora, I have a sample of Colony some place. I’ll have to give it a thorough test. Enjoy!
17. Ina | January 6th, 2007 at 1:39 pm
Patty, I agree! I need some Vol de Nuit in parfum.
18. Ina | January 6th, 2007 at 1:40 pm
Chaya, it’s unbelievable how many of them are truly timeless. I’m yet to revisit Carons.
19. Ina | January 6th, 2007 at 1:41 pm
Gaia, I’m afraid I’ve never smelled it but you got me intrigued!
20. Ina | January 6th, 2007 at 1:41 pm
Marina, Diors are next on my list.
21. Ina | January 6th, 2007 at 1:42 pm
Leo, it sure is!
22. Ina | January 6th, 2007 at 1:42 pm
Judith, I don’t think I’ve tried it in PdT. Must do so.
23. Ina | January 6th, 2007 at 1:43 pm
Greeneyes, parfum is the answer. I’ll have to revisit the Weils.
24. Ina | January 6th, 2007 at 1:44 pm
Elle, haven’t tried Nocturnes yet but will do so soon.
25. Ina | January 6th, 2007 at 1:44 pm
Newproducts, I want Shalimar in parfum, the vintage version. It’s nothing like what they have out there today.
26. Ina | January 6th, 2007 at 1:45 pm
Tom, please do and report back!
27. Ina | January 6th, 2007 at 1:45 pm
Cait, Chanel No 5 is superb, in vintage parfum.
28. Ina | January 6th, 2007 at 1:46 pm
Morgan, thank you! I’m downtown a lot.
29. Ina | January 6th, 2007 at 1:47 pm
Vika, same here! I have a whole list of scents I need to get samples of to match the book’s selection.
30. Ina | January 6th, 2007 at 1:48 pm
Shifts, Guerlains in parfum are so worth a try. Vast difference. EDPs are generally better versions, too.
31. evilpeony | January 8th, 2007 at 8:04 pm
hi ina! i heart classic guerlains. i tried jicky edp (i think) in bloomingdales and fell in love with it. it’s very modern and sophisticated, yet timeless. when i came home with it, the BF did not accuse me of infusing the apartment with “great grand-aunt smell” (He did accuse me of this, however, when I came home with Mitsouko edt sillage… *giggles*) Nevertheless, I’m still infatuated with Mitsouko, but only in EDP.
32. Ina | January 9th, 2007 at 3:39 pm
Evilpeony (love the name!), I highly recommend you try both Mitsouko and Jicky in parfum.
33. Aromascope » Rose A&hellip | January 24th, 2007 at 11:50 pm
[…] It goes without saying, Angel by Thierry Mugler is the Poison of the 90s. Olivier Cresp, its perfumer, intended to create “a perfume that was also a drug” (Perfume Legends, p.283). Its ingenious blend of caramel, chocolate, and patchouli has indeed accomplished that. Whether you favor Angel or not, it’ll be sure to alter your existence simply because you’re bound to smell it on others, and, once you smell it, you won’t forget it. My first encounter with the scent happened roughly four years ago when I instantly fell into a state of euphoria - I practically bathed in it, applying several spritzes per day (when one spritz would suffice perfectly). It was truly a drug. However, instead of developing a severe addiction, I actually grew intensely weary of it. Today, I still appreciate the scent but cannot bring myself to wear it. The latest addition to the Angel Garden of Stars collection (Lily Angel, Violet Angel, Peony Angel), Rose Angel is the only rendition I absolutely love and wear on occasion. […]
34. Aromascope » Vintag&hellip | April 25th, 2007 at 10:15 pm
[…] by Guy Laroche came out in 1966 and, according to Perfume Legends (p. 135), “pioneered a new generation of fresh perfumes: Norell (1969), Charlie (1973), Gucci […]
35. Aromascope » Tuesda&hellip | May 7th, 2007 at 11:40 pm
[…] and instead of forcing myself too much, I want to share a quote I came across while reading my Perfume Legends book. Speaking of writing, there was a discussion yesterday on the fragrance discussion forum I […]
36. black hot ebony pussy&hellip | June 9th, 2007 at 3:18 pm
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37. Aromascope » Quotes&hellip | July 22nd, 2007 at 10:54 pm
[…] reading my Perfume Legends book, I came across a few quotes that I consider gems or little odes to some of the classic […]
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