Perfume Legends by Michael Edwards
I’m happy to announce that I’m now a proud owner of Perfume Legends, a wonderful comprehensive anthology of modern perfumery. The book is written by Michael Edwards, a perfume evaluator and author of a web-based fragrance encyclopedia, Fragrances of the World.Info, as well as U.S. Fragrance Foundation Fragrance Directory, an automated online fragrance finder. Perfume Legends starts out with a chapter called “The Dawn of Modern Perfumery” and progresses into a detailed overview of various perfumes the selection of which is based on three criteria, according to Michael Edwards, “an accord so innovative that it inspired other compositions; an impact so profound that it shaped a new trend; and an appeal that is likely to transcend the whims of fashion.” As I read the book, I plan to share with you my impressions as well as things I find fascinating or new to me.
In 1889, Aime Guerlain created Jicky which is regarded as “the first modern perfume because it was the first sophisticated composition” as opposed to linear floral waters that had been favored earlier. It was also the second perfume that combined natural and synthetic ingredients (the first one was Fougere Royale by Houbigant). In Jicky, the synthetic components are coumarin (derived from tonka beans) and vanillin (derived from the vanilla pod). The first time I tried Jicky, it struck me as a very sophisticated lavender scent with a warm, animalic drydown. It seemed so classic, yet so contemporary. Jicky was also one of the first Guerlains I smelled, when my nose was still not quite developed to appreciate vintage beauties. I have since put it aside focusing on and being enamored by other Guerlain gems like Mitsouko or Samsara. But after reading a chapter on Jicky in Perfume Legends, I’m overcome by a longing to acquire Jicky, especially in parfum.
Jicky features the notes of lavender, bergamot, rosemary, rosewood, geranium, jasmine, rose, tonka bean, opopanax, vanilla, coumarin.
Have you been inspired to revisit a perfume lately?
Image source: www.amazon.com, www.cosma-parfumeries.com
37 comments January 5th, 2007