Archive for December, 2006
Perfumes can often evoke memories, experiences, objects, locations. Zagorsk by Comme des Garcons is a location-specific scent, named after a town in Russia (presently called Sergiev Posad) that’s known for its historic Orthodox monastery and churches. It’s part of the Incense series in the Comme des Garcons fragrance line, featuring interpretations of incense scents around the world. Zagorsk is an olfactory experience of being in a Russian Orthodox church in the middle of winter - the warmth of incense inside and the chill of pines and birch trees outside.
In spite of its olfactory promise, it’s not what Zagorsk evokes in me. Perhaps it’s due to the fact I didn’t grow up going to Russian churches. While it doesn’t bring to mind a certain location, it does evoke a certain type of weather - a chilly winter day, with the sky gray and stubbornly overcast, crusty, old snow on the ground, and the wind blowing right through your bones. On a day like this you happen to be walking on a road surrounded by pine trees, taking notice of occasional smoke coming out from banyas (Russian wood-fired saunas). It’s a Saturday, the official banya day, and you’re overcome by a sudden yearning to be in one right this minute.
Zagorsk is probably the most “Russian” scent I’ve ever smelled (although, in my case, it’s also very Baltic). It features the notes of white incense, pine, pimento berries, violet, cedar, iris, hinoki wood, birch wood. Also available as a candle (that I’m dying to possess). It can be purchased from Luckyscent as well as other select stores.
Do you have any scents that evoke winter weather?
December 18th, 2006
Parfums MDCI is an exclusive French perfume line that believes “fine fragrances should be an art more than an industry, a source of pleasure, pride and beauty more than a commodity”. It distinguishes itself not only in giving recognition to perfumer’s talent and their freedom to explore but also in unique bottle design - “the Art of Crystal brought to its highest level”. The inspiration came from the Renaissance, old buildings, sculptures, the Louvre, the Greek and Roman antiques (more details about their bottle design here). “A modern evocation of these pieces of beauty” is the idea behind MDCI fragrances. Today Marina from Perfume-Smellin’ Things and I are sharing our thoughts on MDCI perfumes.
Parfums MDCI currently consists of five fragrances: three for women (created by Francis Kurkdjian, the nose behind Armani Mania, Guerlain Rose Barbare, Narciso Rodriguez For Her) and two for men (created by Pierre Bourdon, known for YSL Kouros, Dior Dolce Vita, Davidoff Cool Water, and Stephanie Bakouche, a young perfumer).
Promesse de L’Aube (FK No 1) - bergamot, mandarin, lemon, ylang-ylang, jasmine, sandalwood, tonka beans, vanilla. An oriental floral “pour le jour” (daytime wear). With a tart lemony beginning, the scent settles into a sandalwood based, velvety ylang-ylang and jasmine blend. Even though it doesn’t strike me as particularly original and actually reminds me of this year’s F de Ferragamo, I find it very pretty and well-blended. It’s a fairly inoffensive, subdued floral - a daytime office scent, fitting well with a business casual outfit.
Rose de Siwa (FK No 2) - litchi, peony, hawthorne, Moroccan and Turkish roses, violet, cedar, musk, vetiver. A “tout en rose”, “moments doux” scent (all pink, for soft moments). It has an incredibly bright and sunny beginning with a fruity rose and a touch of peony. The scent is all about radiant, honeyed, dewy roses with a fizzy, almost aldehydic effect. Very much along the lines of Rose d’Ete by Rosine. A weekend romantic getaway.
Enlevement Au Serail (FK No 3) - bergamot, mandarin, ylang-ylang, jasmine sambac, tuberose, Turkish rose, wallflower, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla, vetiver. “Parure pour le soir” - an evening attire. A sultry interplay of ylang-ylang, jasmine, and tuberose on the base of embracing patchouli and what seems to be animalic creamy sandalwood. The flowers sort of dissolve in the vetiver-sandalwood-patchouli blend, exuding a most gorgeous aroma. Very much along the lines of a classic Guerlain, No 3 is by far my favorite. It requires fine clothing, sensuality, and an agenda.
Ambre Topkapi (Pierre Bourdon) - oakmoss, vetiver, sandalwood, rosewood, leather, Darjeeling tea, amber, musk, vanilla, jasmine, violet, cinnamon, cardamom, grapefruit, pineapple, melon, nutmeg, ginger, basil, thyme, lavender. Meant “to incarnate strength, power, wealth, and the conflicting feelings” of the sculpture on the men’s flacon, it manages to do just that, except in a very modern way. Its marine vetiver opening is reminiscent of many men’s colognes. The leather is airy and rosy in a sort of politically correct way. Its velvety, slightly spicy drydown makes me think of a freshly shaven, showered, starched, and stylishly-shod young businessman whose conflicting feelings range between the color of his shoes and the choice between single or double shot espresso.
Invasion Barbare (Stephanie Bakouche) - grapefruit, bergamot, violet leaves, thyme, cardamom, lavender, ginger, cedar, bourbon vanilla, musk. Its dry, herbal-aromatic opening, with a very soft interplay of spices, is reminiscent of Cuir Beluga or Sables by Annick Goutal. My second favorite of the line, the scent is what I’d call different, and the kind that’ll have to grow on you. Thyme, cardamom, and lavender on a vanilla base create an association of some herb-infused honey. Stephanie Bakouche draws inspiration from her travels, so no wonder her scent is so, shall we say, unbiased and peculiar. It can be easily worn by women - perfect for non-conformists like myself.
For more information on the pricing of the MDCI perfumes, please refer to their web site.
Image source: www.parfumsmdci.com
December 15th, 2006
As the year draws to a close, I’ve been going over all the 2006 fragrance releases, and came to the sad conclusion that, with very few exceptions, a lot of them are simply uninteresting. Too much mass market appeal and not enough originality is my verdict. Thank goodness for the exceptions, one of them being L de Lolita Lempicka. To my knowledge, it hasn’t officially launched in the U.S. yet (although some online discounters have had it in stock) but it is for sale in Europe. The fragrance is created by one of my favorite perfumers, Maurice Roucel, the nose behind Gucci Envy, Hermes 24, Faubourg, Rochas Tocade, Guerlain Insolence, Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur, amongst others.
Just like its predecessor (the licorice-laden Lolita Lempicka), L de Lolita Lempicka is a gourmand scent. With the notes of bitter orange, bergamot, cinnamon, immortelle, vanilla, musk, tonka beans, and sandalwood, it’s “a fragrance exuding the beauty of the ocean coupled with the myth of the mermaid.” The beauty of the ocean in this case refers to nothing but the bottle, it seems. Its top notes remind me of those white lemon cookies covered in powdered sugar (Spritzers is the name, I believe), with perhaps some added caramel, a touch of cinnamon sprinkled on top, and a slight salty flavor. In spite of such a foody association, L de Lolita Lempicka manages to be a very elegant scent, with an airy, vanillic-musky drydown. Instead of going along with the current trend of syrupy-sweet, cotton-candy-like, toothache-inducing perfumes, it turns to powdered sugar, used in moderation and tastefully. I love its enveloping effect. It’s sultry and cozy at the same time - it can be easily dressed up or down.
L de Lolita Lempicka is available at Imagination Perfumery.
Image source: www.sephora.fr
December 14th, 2006
A couple of months ago I did a list of my ultimate fall scents, and since it’s practically winter (unfortunately), it’s time to put together a list of my ultimate winter perfumes. The list includes olfactory equivalents of wrapping yourself in a warm coat, scarf, gloves, and whatever it takes to stay sane during freezing months. In winter, I look for dense, solid, substantial perfumes, so no wonder most of them are heavy on spices and woods. Please share your own!
IUNX Splash Forte - cardamom, cumin, bay leaf, nutmeg, coffee, cinchona bark, red cedar, musk. Created by one of my favorite perfumers - Olivia Giacobetti - Splash Forte is hard-core cedar with hot burning spices. Sadly, the IUNX line has been discontinued.
Idole de Lubin - rum, saffron, bitter orange, cumin, Doum palm, ebony wood, sugar cane, leather, red sandalwood. Another creation of Olivia Giacobetti, Idole is a mesmerizingly warm, boozy, spicy scent that’s both rich and sophisticated at the same time. Available at Beautyhabit and Luckyscent.
Anne Pliska - vanilla, orange, geranium, bergamot, patchouli, amber, musk. Anne Pliska is an orange creamsicle and sweet amber scent, with just a touch of patchouli. There’s something very winter holiday-ish about it. Available at Lusciouscargo.
Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens - amber, myrrh, styrax, incense, cinnamon, aloe wood, cedar, civet, nutmeg, clove, cumin, musk, mandarin peel, orange blossom. The typically harsh leather is perfectly balanced with warm spices and camphorous woody notes. Available from Salons Shiseido in Paris.
Tubereuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens - orange blossom, clove, musk, nutmeg, jasmin, tuberose, styrax, vanilla, hyacinth. A spicy tuberose with a menthol beginning. I simply adore it but can only pull it off in very, very cold weather. The drydown is gorgeous beyond belief. Available at Salons Shiseido in Paris.
Aroma Allegoria Exaltant by Guerlain - bergamot, cypress, bitter orange, cinnamon, cedar, neroli, cardamom, coriander, vanilla, tonka bean, pepper, sandalwood. Another unjustly discontinued scent, Exalting is exactly that - spicy vanilla with hints of pepper. I call it Feminite du Bois on vanilla steroids. Occasional bottles pop up on eBay.
Regina Harris Amber Vanilla - amber, vanilla. The other notes of this perfume oil are kept secret but an inquisitive nose can detect some incense, cedar, and, perhaps, spices. An extremely long-lasting oil, sophisticated and well-balanced. Pefect for going out on winter evenings. Available at Beautyhabit and Luckyscent.
Yosh La Contessa - sandalwood, oriental Kush, Night Queen, cucumber, vanilla, bergamot. Another perfume oil that to some smells of dill pickles but to me is a complex, exotic sandalwood blend. Absolutely unbelievable lasting power and sillage. The best part comes with the drydown - dark and brooding. It’s been discontinued, I hear, but it looks like there’s some leftover stock at La Creme Beauty.
Images from: luckyscent.com, osmoz.com, lacremebeauty.com, lusciouscargo.com, salons-shiseido.com, hyperbelle.com
December 13th, 2006
L’Inspiratrice is the new addition to Parfums Divine, a French niche perfume line created by Yvon Mouchel. I have a very high appreciation for the entire line, my constant favorites being L’Ame Soeur and Divine. Needless to say, the news of a new scent sent me over the moon, and, while I’ve been thoroughly testing L’Inspiratrice the minute a sample was in my hands, I feel like I cannot quite give it justice just yet - I see new facets each time it touches my skin.
L’Inspiratrice is “a lofty meeting between patchouli and rose” which seems to occur instantly, and immediately breaks up with patchouli disappearing in the crowd of what seems to be white chocolate, ylang-ylang, and white musk. Chocolate isn’t listed as a note, yet there’s a distinct sweet suede-like effect, almost along the lines of Keiko Mecheri Loukhoum but with more floral emphasis and sophistication. L’Inspiratrice strikes me as a very pink scent with a soft, powdery, borderline aldehydic character. It doesn’t quite measure up to the sensual charm of Divine or classic elegance of L’Ame Soeur - it’s less mature, innocent, and perhaps even a bit too modest. Yet I find it so pretty and delectable that it’s impossible to resist. The lasting power is average, and I absolutely adore the bottle (but would make it pink instead).
L’Inspiratrice features the notes of rose, patchouli, ylang-ylang, bergamot, peony, white musk, vetiver, vanilla, tonka bean. It can be purchased directly from the Divine online shop.
Image source: www.divine.fr
December 12th, 2006
Création Privée No 47 (Private Collection) is the latest set of scents in the Parfumerie Generale line, created by Pierre Guillaume. While the previously reviewed Chapitre II was marked by kaleidoscopic variety, the newest additions possess a classic character, perhaps not as unique and striking but noteworthy nonetheless. I find the whole line fascinating and successfully innovative and highly recommend testing all the scents (which can be purchased in convenient sets of minis from their online shop).
Bois de Copaiba - orange pulp, red ginger, amaretto, Copahu balm, Mahogany wood, myrrh, sandalwood. Upon first sniff, the orange pulp and ginger blend is reminiscent of the rose and peach pairing that distinguishes so many classic creations like Guerlain Mitsouko or Chanel Coco. In Bois de Copaiba, the accent is on savory, liqueur-like creaminess of resins. The drydown is marked by an almond note giving the scent more of a sophisticated gourmand quality.
Cedre Sandaraque - vetiver, African cedar, Sandaraque resin, cereals, pralined amber. Very much a gourmand scent from the start, Cedre Sandarique seems to repeat the concept already used in Parfumerie Generale Aomassai - combining dark woody notes with sweet gourmand ones. While I find these pralined resins interesting, especially with the addition of vetiver, it doesn’t stand out enough to surpass Aomassai or make the earth move for me.
Corps et Ames - geranium bourbon, spices, immortelle, Melati wood, leather, sandalwood. Corps et Ames is a geranium-centered chypre. Its composition is intensely familiar, yet I cannot find the exact scent it reminds me of. It falls into the category of sparkling, aldehydic chypres, perhaps something by Dior in the 70s or Paco Rabanne Calandre. I love the dusty undertone of cumin and the earthiness of leather but the exuberance of geranium is off-putting.
Querelle - citrus, black cumin, myrrh, cinnamon, vetiver, incense, oakmoss, ambergris. A namesake for Jean Genet’s novel, Querelle is a masterful dark chypre. Vetiver, incense, and oakmoss are the “vices” here, each fighting for superiority relentlessly. Dusty cumin and savory cinnamon are mere undertones, with myrrh playing a mediator, sort of holding the whole thing together. The effect is gracefully ferocious and is bound to appeal to lovers of Miss Dior, Paloma Picasso, Balmain de Balmain, and the like.
Tubereuse Couture - Kalamanzi oil, green jasmine shoots, ylang-ylang, sugar cane, Indian tuberose, Sumatra benzoin, papyrus. In spite of the name, this Tubereuse Couture doesn’t get any more couture than the legendary Fracas. In fact, I find it a very close replica of Fracas, the exception being its intense saccharine character. Just as much as I tend to avoid foods with high fructose corn syrup, corn syrup, and sugar combined together, I won’t reach for a tuberose that’s practically drowning in the above mentioned ingredients.
Image source: www.parfumerie-generale.com
December 11th, 2006
Busy, busy week here, so a lazy Friday on Aromascope. With minus fifteen weather (Fahrenheit), who wants to wear perfume? I’m all busy making sure my cheeks stay on. Marina at Perfume-Smellin’ Things writes about a cashmere-like scent today, and I can’t help but wonder if there’s ever going to be a down coat scent? I’d buy a lifetime supply of that. After growing up in a northern country, you’d think I’d be used to the cold or at least embrace it. Ain’t happenin’. Off I go to hibernate. If you’re freezing like me, stay warm! Happy weekend, all!
Image source: www.corbis.com
December 8th, 2006
Since we’re on the subject of the upcoming holidays, it only seems appropriate to review one of my favorite candles - Bois d’Orient by L’Artisan Parfumeur. Bois d’Orient (Oriental Wood) is a special Christmas candle (as you can also see from the festive packaging) that brings to your home a cozy wintery blend of cedar, cinammon, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, walnut, and vanilla. Besides its incredible throw, Bois d’Orient makes me feel all warm and fuzzy with its smooth fluffiness - as if it’s been whipped into a perfect creamy mousse and sprinkled with spices. It has a perfect amount of vanilla and just enough of a spicy kick to earn a place of honor in my living room at this time of year. Moreover, believe it or not, it even reminds me of my favorite Metallica perfume (a spicy carnation vanilla blend), and the more things I find that smell like Metallica, the better, even if it means stooping down to the level of bathroom plug-in fresheners. Bois d’Orient is an olfactory equivalent of sipping hot cocoa by the fireplace on a freezing winter evening and an invaluable mood-lifting accessory for all the cold-phobiacs like myself.
Bois d’Orient is available at Aedes and Luckyscent. For more retailer information, please check the L’Artisan Parfumeur web site.
Image source: www.luckyscent.com
December 7th, 2006
Even though I don’t celebrate Christmas, December has always been a magical month, mostly due to the festive spirit of New Year’s (which in my childhood was associated with Father Frost and his assistant Snow Maiden, lots of candy, clementines, walnuts, fun TV shows, New Year’s tree with obnoxious decorations, and fighting with my brother, primarily over candy). I know it’s only December 6 but I haven’t been home for two years (the longest ever), and the nostalgia is getting to me. This post, however, isn’t intended as a self-pity party. On the contrary, it’s all about self-indulgence - I’m putting together a wishlist for myself. Here’re some of the things I’d like to get in the near future:
- Vintage Shalimar parfum - because Paris Hilton wears it.
And a trip home.
What fragrant things are on your holiday wishlist?
Image source: www.wikipedia.org
December 5th, 2006
The answer to the question of how to apply fragrance might seem fairly self-explanatory to some - what do you mean how, just spray it on! In my experience, however, people tend to have their own preferred ways. For instance, I see women come up to the fragrance counters and spray the perfume right on their necks several times (which is also the most common way to do it) but what alarms me personally is the very short distance between the bottle and the neck. Why does it alarm me, you might ask? Well, I’m not quite sure - perhaps I sort of assume they’re either about to suffocate or the perfume will go right into their mouth. Another commonly observed method is to spray perfume on your wrists followed by instant rubbing (a big no-no, I hear). My personal preferred way is to spray or dab on the insides of my wrists, the top of my hands, on the general décolletage area, and the nape of my neck. I tend to not spray perfume on my clothes or my hair. With very potent perfumes, I’ve heard some people spray it in the air and promptly walk through it (haven’t tried it myself yet). How do you apply fragrance? What tricks work for you?
Image source: www.corbis.com
December 5th, 2006
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