December 15th, 2006
Parfums MDCI is an exclusive French perfume line that believes “fine fragrances should be an art more than an industry, a source of pleasure, pride and beauty more than a commodity”. It distinguishes itself not only in giving recognition to perfumer’s talent and their freedom to explore but also in unique bottle design – “the Art of Crystal brought to its highest level”. The inspiration came from the Renaissance, old buildings, sculptures, the Louvre, the Greek and Roman antiques (more details about their bottle design here). “A modern evocation of these pieces of beauty” is the idea behind MDCI fragrances. Today Marina from Perfume-Smellin’ Things and I are sharing our thoughts on MDCI perfumes.
Parfums MDCI currently consists of five fragrances: three for women (created by Francis Kurkdjian, the nose behind Armani Mania, Guerlain Rose Barbare, Narciso Rodriguez For Her) and two for men (created by Pierre Bourdon, known for YSL Kouros, Dior Dolce Vita, Davidoff Cool Water, and Stephanie Bakouche, a young perfumer).
Promesse de L’Aube (FK No 1) – bergamot, mandarin, lemon, ylang-ylang, jasmine, sandalwood, tonka beans, vanilla. An oriental floral “pour le jour” (daytime wear). With a tart lemony beginning, the scent settles into a sandalwood based, velvety ylang-ylang and jasmine blend. Even though it doesn’t strike me as particularly original and actually reminds me of this year’s F de Ferragamo, I find it very pretty and well-blended. It’s a fairly inoffensive, subdued floral – a daytime office scent, fitting well with a business casual outfit.
Rose de Siwa (FK No 2) – litchi, peony, hawthorne, Moroccan and Turkish roses, violet, cedar, musk, vetiver. A “tout en rose”, “moments doux” scent (all pink, for soft moments). It has an incredibly bright and sunny beginning with a fruity rose and a touch of peony. The scent is all about radiant, honeyed, dewy roses with a fizzy, almost aldehydic effect. Very much along the lines of Rose d’Ete by Rosine. A weekend romantic getaway.
Enlevement Au Serail (FK No 3) – bergamot, mandarin, ylang-ylang, jasmine sambac, tuberose, Turkish rose, wallflower, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla, vetiver. “Parure pour le soir” – an evening attire. A sultry interplay of ylang-ylang, jasmine, and tuberose on the base of embracing patchouli and what seems to be animalic creamy sandalwood. The flowers sort of dissolve in the vetiver-sandalwood-patchouli blend, exuding a most gorgeous aroma. Very much along the lines of a classic Guerlain, No 3 is by far my favorite. It requires fine clothing, sensuality, and an agenda.
Ambre Topkapi (Pierre Bourdon) – oakmoss, vetiver, sandalwood, rosewood, leather, Darjeeling tea, amber, musk, vanilla, jasmine, violet, cinnamon, cardamom, grapefruit, pineapple, melon, nutmeg, ginger, basil, thyme, lavender. Meant “to incarnate strength, power, wealth, and the conflicting feelings” of the sculpture on the men’s flacon, it manages to do just that, except in a very modern way. Its marine vetiver opening is reminiscent of many men’s colognes. The leather is airy and rosy in a sort of politically correct way. Its velvety, slightly spicy drydown makes me think of a freshly shaven, showered, starched, and stylishly-shod young businessman whose conflicting feelings range between the color of his shoes and the choice between single or double shot espresso.
Invasion Barbare (Stephanie Bakouche) – grapefruit, bergamot, violet leaves, thyme, cardamom, lavender, ginger, cedar, bourbon vanilla, musk. Its dry, herbal-aromatic opening, with a very soft interplay of spices, is reminiscent of Cuir Beluga or Sables by Annick Goutal. My second favorite of the line, the scent is what I’d call different, and the kind that’ll have to grow on you. Thyme, cardamom, and lavender on a vanilla base create an association of some herb-infused honey. Stephanie Bakouche draws inspiration from her travels, so no wonder her scent is so, shall we say, unbiased and peculiar. It can be easily worn by women – perfect for non-conformists like myself.
For more information on the pricing of the MDCI perfumes, please refer to their web site.
Image source: www.parfumsmdci.com
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