Archive for December 13th, 2006

Ultimate Winter Perfumes

A couple of months ago I did a list of my ultimate fall scents, and since it’s practically winter (unfortunately), it’s time to put together a list of my ultimate winter perfumes. The list includes olfactory equivalents of wrapping yourself in a warm coat, scarf, gloves, and whatever it takes to stay sane during freezing months. In winter, I look for dense, solid, substantial perfumes, so no wonder most of them are heavy on spices and woods. Please share your own!
Splash Forte

IUNX Splash Forte – cardamom, cumin, bay leaf, nutmeg, coffee, cinchona bark, red cedar, musk. Created by one of my favorite perfumers – Olivia Giacobetti – Splash Forte is hard-core cedar with hot burning spices. Sadly, the IUNX line has been discontinued.

Idole de Lubin – rum, saffron, bitter orange, cumin, Doum palm, ebony wood, sugar cane, leather, red sandalwood. Another creation of Olivia Giacobetti, Idole is a mesmerizingly warm, boozy, spicy scent that’s both rich and sophisticated at the same time. Available at Beautyhabit and Luckyscent.
Anne Pliska

Anne Pliska – vanilla, orange, geranium, bergamot, patchouli, amber, musk. Anne Pliska is an orange creamsicle and sweet amber scent, with just a touch of patchouli. There’s something very winter holiday-ish about it. Available at Lusciouscargo.
Cuir Mauresque

Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens – amber, myrrh, styrax, incense, cinnamon, aloe wood, cedar, civet, nutmeg, clove, cumin, musk, mandarin peel, orange blossom. The typically harsh leather is perfectly balanced with warm spices and camphorous woody notes. Available from Salons Shiseido in Paris.
Tubereuse Criminelle

Tubereuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens – orange blossom, clove, musk, nutmeg, jasmin, tuberose, styrax, vanilla, hyacinth. A spicy tuberose with a menthol beginning. I simply adore it but can only pull it off in very, very cold weather. The drydown is gorgeous beyond belief. Available at Salons Shiseido in Paris.
Aroma Allegoria Exaltant

Aroma Allegoria Exaltant by Guerlain – bergamot, cypress, bitter orange, cinnamon, cedar, neroli, cardamom, coriander, vanilla, tonka bean, pepper, sandalwood. Another unjustly discontinued scent, Exalting is exactly that – spicy vanilla with hints of pepper. I call it Feminite du Bois on vanilla steroids. Occasional bottles pop up on eBay.
Regina Harris Amber Vanilla

Regina Harris Amber Vanilla – amber, vanilla. The other notes of this perfume oil are kept secret but an inquisitive nose can detect some incense, cedar, and, perhaps, spices. An extremely long-lasting oil, sophisticated and well-balanced. Pefect for going out on winter evenings. Available at Beautyhabit and Luckyscent.
La Contessa

Yosh La Contessa – sandalwood, oriental Kush, Night Queen, cucumber, vanilla, bergamot. Another perfume oil that to some smells of dill pickles but to me is a complex, exotic sandalwood blend. Absolutely unbelievable lasting power and sillage. The best part comes with the drydown – dark and brooding. It’s been discontinued, I hear, but it looks like there’s some leftover stock at La Creme Beauty.

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