Création Privée No 47 by Parfumerie Generale
December 11th, 2006
Création Privée No 47 (Private Collection) is the latest set of scents in the Parfumerie Generale line, created by Pierre Guillaume. While the previously reviewed Chapitre II was marked by kaleidoscopic variety, the newest additions possess a classic character, perhaps not as unique and striking but noteworthy nonetheless. I find the whole line fascinating and successfully innovative and highly recommend testing all the scents (which can be purchased in convenient sets of minis from their online shop).
Bois de Copaiba - orange pulp, red ginger, amaretto, Copahu balm, Mahogany wood, myrrh, sandalwood. Upon first sniff, the orange pulp and ginger blend is reminiscent of the rose and peach pairing that distinguishes so many classic creations like Guerlain Mitsouko or Chanel Coco. In Bois de Copaiba, the accent is on savory, liqueur-like creaminess of resins. The drydown is marked by an almond note giving the scent more of a sophisticated gourmand quality.
Cedre Sandaraque - vetiver, African cedar, Sandaraque resin, cereals, pralined amber. Very much a gourmand scent from the start, Cedre Sandarique seems to repeat the concept already used in Parfumerie Generale Aomassai - combining dark woody notes with sweet gourmand ones. While I find these pralined resins interesting, especially with the addition of vetiver, it doesn’t stand out enough to surpass Aomassai or make the earth move for me.
Corps et Ames - geranium bourbon, spices, immortelle, Melati wood, leather, sandalwood. Corps et Ames is a geranium-centered chypre. Its composition is intensely familiar, yet I cannot find the exact scent it reminds me of. It falls into the category of sparkling, aldehydic chypres, perhaps something by Dior in the 70s or Paco Rabanne Calandre. I love the dusty undertone of cumin and the earthiness of leather but the exuberance of geranium is off-putting.
Querelle - citrus, black cumin, myrrh, cinnamon, vetiver, incense, oakmoss, ambergris. A namesake for Jean Genet’s novel, Querelle is a masterful dark chypre. Vetiver, incense, and oakmoss are the “vices” here, each fighting for superiority relentlessly. Dusty cumin and savory cinnamon are mere undertones, with myrrh playing a mediator, sort of holding the whole thing together. The effect is gracefully ferocious and is bound to appeal to lovers of Miss Dior, Paloma Picasso, Balmain de Balmain, and the like.
Tubereuse Couture - Kalamanzi oil, green jasmine shoots, ylang-ylang, sugar cane, Indian tuberose, Sumatra benzoin, papyrus. In spite of the name, this Tubereuse Couture doesn’t get any more couture than the legendary Fracas. In fact, I find it a very close replica of Fracas, the exception being its intense saccharine character. Just as much as I tend to avoid foods with high fructose corn syrup, corn syrup, and sugar combined together, I won’t reach for a tuberose that’s practically drowning in the above mentioned ingredients.
Image source: www.parfumerie-generale.com
Entry Filed under: New Perfumes, Perfume Reviews
21 Comments Add your own
1. chaya ruchama | December 11th, 2006 at 6:38 am
Fascinating and succinct.
I’m always curious about the PG’s, and enjoy sniffing, but have yet to adore any on my own skin [with the exception of Musc Maori, which is definitely not a ‘daily’ scent for me].
Thanks for the review…
Keep warm !
2. March | December 11th, 2006 at 7:31 am
Wow, these do sound worth testing (and great is that they do their own sample set!) I think Copaiba and Querelle are potentially “me.” (Hey, you can compare anything to Mitsouko and I’m there!)
3. Elle | December 11th, 2006 at 8:13 am
I broke down and ordered the BdC unsniffed. Sounds impossibly perfect. Frankly, the Querelle and Cedre Sandaraque (close relatives to my beloved Aomassai are always welcome in my perfume family) sound like they have my name all over them as well. I thought the tuberose one would, but w/ my sweet amplifying skin, I’m now thinking perhaps not.
4. leopoldo | December 11th, 2006 at 8:41 am
You know, I think you’ve killed my lemming. Yes, indeed, I see it disappearing into the deep and chilly waves. Look, it takes one last desperate breath and squeals out, ‘I must have’, before sinking like a lump into the ocean of scents.
These are now on my ‘will sniff eventually’ list, but I no longer have that desperate longing to try them all in an orgiastic frenzy of nasal wonder. Hurrah! I’ll just stick with buying Coze I guess.
5. Marina | December 11th, 2006 at 8:47 am
So which one did you like the most and which one did you like the least?
6. Judith | December 11th, 2006 at 10:00 am
I got the set, too, and I like all of them at least a little. My hands-down favorite, though, is Querelle. I must have a bottle of this! But they sneakily sent me a healthy vial of the Haute Concentration as well as the EdP, and now I can’t decide whether it’s worth it to get the HC (only available in 100 ml., too, so doubly expensive). I think probably not, but. . .I’m tempted–and would really appreciate feedback/opinions from anyone with any experience with both.
I also liked Corps et Ames, which reminded me of MH Geranium Bourbon.
And I liked BdC VERY much after the initial over-sweetness (on me) went away–but it seemed too reminiscent of Or des Indes for me to need a bottle.
The Tubereuse was interesting–but, I agree, too sweet.
And the Cedre seemed sort of “meh” to me (although I adore Aomassai)
7. Patty | December 11th, 2006 at 10:59 am
I think I tried the Querelle, and it was wayyyyyy too fierce for me. I have another one that I think is the Tuberose Couture that I like, but I have other tuberoses that I like better.
Am anxious to try all the others!
8. Twibbet | December 11th, 2006 at 11:34 am
Querelle was my favorite by far, although on my skin it faded into nothing but a whisper of vetiver. But on the test strip it was wonderful.
I’m wearing Hyperessence Matale frequently this winter - it’s pretty much gone by lunchtime, but it’s really nice on me. None of the others really suit.
9. violetnoir | December 11th, 2006 at 11:42 am
BdP and Querelle sound the most interesting. Which ones did you like, Ina?
Hugs, babe!
10. Ina | December 11th, 2006 at 5:18 pm
Chaya, Musc Maori is the one I’m actually really lemming to revisit. Thanks for reminding me!
11. Ina | December 11th, 2006 at 5:18 pm
March, yes, there’s a very fat chance you’ll love Copaiba and Querelle.
12. Ina | December 11th, 2006 at 5:19 pm
Elle, BdC will not disappoint. Great unsniffed choice!
13. Ina | December 11th, 2006 at 5:22 pm
Leo, glad to help! Coze has your name written all over it.
14. Ina | December 11th, 2006 at 5:22 pm
Marina, wasn’t it clear?
Well, I think Bois de Copaiba is my fave.
15. Ina | December 11th, 2006 at 5:23 pm
Judith, haven’t had a chance to try any in HC. Interesting comparison to Or des Indes, I didn’t really get that.
16. Ina | December 11th, 2006 at 5:24 pm
Patty, Querelle is too fierce for me as well. You might like Bois de Copaiba quite a bit.
17. Ina | December 11th, 2006 at 5:25 pm
Twibbet, I’m surprised they don’t last on you. I find most PGs very long-lasting but skin chemistry is so unpredictable.
18. Ina | December 11th, 2006 at 5:25 pm
Robin, I like Bois de Copaiba the best. I guess I didn’t really make it clear in my review.
19. ellen | December 26th, 2006 at 9:23 am
Hi, Robin. Just tried Corps et Ames and am finding it is very similar to Estee Lauder Azuree. It has that certain heavy oriental note I can’t describe, but that is common to the ELs (Youth Dew, Azuree, Cinnabar). Maybe that was the one you were trying to think of?
20. Ina | December 26th, 2006 at 11:49 am
Ellen, I knew Corps et Ames was similar to some older scent! Azuree would fit the description. I’ll have to retry it in a store this week! Thanks!
21. Aromascope » French&hellip | May 17th, 2007 at 11:19 pm
[…] Lover will appeal to you if you favor such scents as Derby by Guerlain, Querelle by Parfumerie Generale, Navegar by L’Artisan Parfumeur, Incensi by Lorenzo Villoresi, Antaeus […]
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