Création Privée No 47 (Private Collection) is the latest set of scents in the Parfumerie Generale line, created by Pierre Guillaume. While the previously reviewed Chapitre II was marked by kaleidoscopic variety, the newest additions possess a classic character, perhaps not as unique and striking but noteworthy nonetheless. I find the whole line fascinating and successfully innovative and highly recommend testing all the scents (which can be purchased in convenient sets of minis from their online shop).
Bois de Copaiba – orange pulp, red ginger, amaretto, Copahu balm, Mahogany wood, myrrh, sandalwood. Upon first sniff, the orange pulp and ginger blend is reminiscent of the rose and peach pairing that distinguishes so many classic creations like Guerlain Mitsouko or Chanel Coco. In Bois de Copaiba, the accent is on savory, liqueur-like creaminess of resins. The drydown is marked by an almond note giving the scent more of a sophisticated gourmand quality.
Cedre Sandaraque – vetiver, African cedar, Sandaraque resin, cereals, pralined amber. Very much a gourmand scent from the start, Cedre Sandarique seems to repeat the concept already used in Parfumerie Generale Aomassai – combining dark woody notes with sweet gourmand ones. While I find these pralined resins interesting, especially with the addition of vetiver, it doesn’t stand out enough to surpass Aomassai or make the earth move for me.
Corps et Ames – geranium bourbon, spices, immortelle, Melati wood, leather, sandalwood. Corps et Ames is a geranium-centered chypre. Its composition is intensely familiar, yet I cannot find the exact scent it reminds me of. It falls into the category of sparkling, aldehydic chypres, perhaps something by Dior in the 70s or Paco Rabanne Calandre. I love the dusty undertone of cumin and the earthiness of leather but the exuberance of geranium is off-putting.
Querelle – citrus, black cumin, myrrh, cinnamon, vetiver, incense, oakmoss, ambergris. A namesake for Jean Genet’s novel, Querelle is a masterful dark chypre. Vetiver, incense, and oakmoss are the “vices” here, each fighting for superiority relentlessly. Dusty cumin and savory cinnamon are mere undertones, with myrrh playing a mediator, sort of holding the whole thing together. The effect is gracefully ferocious and is bound to appeal to lovers of Miss Dior, Paloma Picasso, Balmain de Balmain, and the like.
Tubereuse Couture – Kalamanzi oil, green jasmine shoots, ylang-ylang, sugar cane, Indian tuberose, Sumatra benzoin, papyrus. In spite of the name, this Tubereuse Couture doesn’t get any more couture than the legendary Fracas. In fact, I find it a very close replica of Fracas, the exception being its intense saccharine character. Just as much as I tend to avoid foods with high fructose corn syrup, corn syrup, and sugar combined together, I won’t reach for a tuberose that’s practically drowning in the above mentioned ingredients.
Image source: www.parfumerie-generale.com
22 comments December 11th, 2006