Dr. Vranjes Fragrances
November 20th, 2006
Dr. Vranjes fragrances caught my attention recently, after I saw them mentioned in a Beautyhabit newsletter and later on in a Bergdorf Goodman catalog. Needless to say, samples were ordered promptly. Looking at the hefty price tag, for some reason I cynically assumed it was yet another pompous perfume line that prides itself in exclusivity more than anything else. Little did I know it’s actually produced by the creator of Antica Farmacista (a well known Italian home and personal fragrance line created using ancient artisan techniques). This fact alone added a bit more credibility, and off I went to test the scents (just the three women’s ones, for the time being). According to Beautyhabit, Dr. Vranjes is a Florence based artisan perfumer who has his own boutique-laboratory where he works primarily with the finest essences as well as doing “research into the fields of cosmetology and fragrances for personal use and for the home.” The line is marked by luxury and antiquity, perhaps a bit too much for my taste, yet I found testing the fragrances a pleasant and slightly hedonistic experience.
Cassiopea - with notes of ylang-ylang, jasmine, iris, rose, and rosewood, the scent has a luminous, glowing effect. It starts out as a sweet, almost balsamic rose and ylang-ylang blend, with the heart centered around iris, and a charming, slightly spicy drydown. Rose is at the center of attention, lounging on balsamic ylang-ylang cushions. Cassiopea is all about repose and luxury.
Esperia - algae, wood, moss, saline accord. Basically, an ozonic light floral. Airy and fresh, reminiscent of a fresh ocean breeze. Typically, a red flag for me but to give it some credit, it is indeed nicely done. The mossy accord gives it a slightly green quality reminiscent of fresh cut grass. Overall, Esperia will appeal to the lovers of fresh, aquatic florals. (Sorry, not much eloquence here).
Elettra - iris, jasmine, amber, myrrh. My favorite of the three, Elettra is a sensual, plush floral oriental. It starts out with a sweet, jam-like iris and jasmine, accentuated by honeyed ambery warmth. There’s also a touch of patchouli-like dirtiness that eventually melds into the composition. The drydown is marked by viscous, sweet myrrh that’s simultaneously stirring and comforting.
Final verdict: while I find the fragrances well blended and quite delightful, I notice they’re not exhibiting much development on skin and seem to possess the home diffuser quality, i.e., they’d make excellent home fragrances. Perhaps the price is somewhat off-putting. Regardless, they manage to keep my heart still and do not cause any rash behavior which, I might add, is a bit disappointing.
Image source: www.beautyhabit.com
Entry Filed under: New Perfumes, Perfume Reviews
13 Comments Add your own
1. Marina | November 20th, 2006 at 9:00 am
They don’t sound like something I’d be rash about either, do they? Well, maybe Elettra has a tiny bit of potential, but not a lot. Thank you for the lovely review!
2. Elle | November 20th, 2006 at 10:20 am
I don’t know…Ellletra and Cassiopea are sounding fairly good to me right now. At this very moment I could use some repose and luxury and if Cassiopea provides that illusion, I might need to bathe in it.
Not good.
Esperia sounded great till I got to “saline accord” - sounds like something that should be in an iv bag.
3. March | November 20th, 2006 at 10:31 am
“The home diffuser quality…” giggling but not whipping out my MasterCard.
4. Robin | November 20th, 2006 at 11:16 am
That home diffuser quality is all over the place this year. I don’t know why, but I find the linear, home fragrance thing ok in a Diptyque, not ok in most other lines. Maybe because Diptyque just starts with higher quality components, and uses better noses? I thought the Tocca & Anthousa debuts this year were both quite disappointing.
5. Patty | November 20th, 2006 at 1:19 pm
Thank goodness! Finally something that does not have me running and screeching for the credit cards.
6. Ina | November 20th, 2006 at 11:42 pm
Marina, Elettra would be a purchase if it was a bit more affordable.
7. Ina | November 20th, 2006 at 11:43 pm
Elle, Esperia is actually quite nice for a marine floral. Now that you mention bathing, I think these would make excellent bath oils/shower gels.
8. Ina | November 20th, 2006 at 11:44 pm
March, I’m glad to save you some $$.
I often get accused of the opposite.
9. Ina | November 20th, 2006 at 11:45 pm
Robin, you’re right on. Diptyque have quite unique fragrances, in my opinion, to pull it off. Tocca perfumes are just vile. I simply cannot believe how much I dislike them. Anthousa wasn’t much better either. I say we need more complexity!!
10. Ina | November 20th, 2006 at 11:46 pm
Patty, glad to please!
11. Anjali | November 21st, 2006 at 5:56 am
I admit, the name made me think of an evil orthodontist, but these actually do sound rather promising. Thanks for the reviews Ina
12. Ina | November 21st, 2006 at 10:26 am
Anjali, no evil orthodontists here. LOL!
13. Deborah A deGroff | July 24th, 2007 at 7:35 am
I have just read your review of Dr Vranjes and there is one inaccuracy. The Antica Farmacista name in America has absolutely no connection to the Antica Officina line in Florence Italy.
Paolo no longer makes any fragrance for the importer in Seattle and his only exclusive distributor in America is Dollars & Scents in New York. This is a point that needs to be clarified. The consumer should know the difference since all the Antica Farmacista fragrances that are distributed out of Seattle are NOT made in Italy - only those being sold by Dollars & Scents are Italian creations from Paolo Vranjes.
I would really appreciate it if you would not this.
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