Strange Invisible Perfumes

November 14th, 2006

Strange Invisible PerfumesStrange Invisible Perfumes is a natural perfume line that prides itself in using the finest botanical ingredients. It was created in 2000 by Alexandra Balahoutis (interview on Now Smell This), who was on a quest to learn the art of botanical perfumery. The line consists of several perfumes that “defy classification” for being representations of botanical essences, with only natural, organic ingredients and fixatives. “We aggressively pursue essences that are organic, wild-crafted, pesticide-free or biodynamically cultivated, and the choice to include them is always based on availability”. Besides the choice of ingredients, Alexandra also favors the use of hydrodistillation, a method that “both honors and captures the soul of the plant as it gently lures the oil from its cellular material, allowing for the use of plants previously considered too delicate to distill.” (Information from the press release).

I first became familiar with the line a couple of years ago, just starting out as a perfume maniac. As you might guess, I was rather underwhelmed - I found the line too weird and ungratifying. The top notes were bizarre and borderline repulsive, the best part was hidden in the drydown that took a while to unfold. Just recently, I got intrigued by them again, as I’ve learnt that the best things in life come with waiting, i.e., in this case, for the drydown. Below are my impressions of just three fragrances, for the time being.

L’Invisible - oakmoss, resins, ylang-ylang, blood orange, hibiscus, vanilla, Moroccan red rose, Sicilian lemon. With rather sharp citrus top notes, the scent unfolds to a hay-like, softly mossy ylang-ylang and rose blend. There’s a distinct herbal quality, with some underlying oiliness that reminds me of the smell of some plant oil. It takes a while to settle on skin and really grows on you. It could be easily classified as soft chypre. L’Invisible is probably my favorite from the line and is quite easy to like.

Tosca - mimosa, jasmine, basil, Parma violet, tobacco leaf, musk, blood orange. Starts out herbal-medicinal with very little appeal. Tosca is said to be a Mediterranean scent, with its character truly showing, once again, in the drydown. The composition is centered around mimosa that’s tea-like in contrast to its typical powdery character. It’s very much a summer countryside perfume, with emphasis on herbs and hay moreso than flowers. It’s quite unconventional and may not be liked by many. In the very drydown, the scent reminds me a little of Armani Pierre de Lune or Parfums de Nicolai Mimosaique.

Etrange - Far Eastern flowers, resins, ginger, benzoin, seaweed. “Etrange meaning strange in French, an aromatic tribute to the lost alchemical art of eighteenth-century perfumery”. Very aromatic ginger and seaweed with an apparent aquatic accord in top notes that takes a resinous turn as the scent develops. In my imagination, this is what the bottom of the ocean smells like - sort of dirty, green, gooey. The drydown is accentuated by soft, honeyed amber. Etrange is a perfect scent for the daring, impetuous kind.

Strange Invisilbe Perfumes are available from their Los Angeles boutique as well as Barney’s New York.

Image source: www.barneys.com

Entry Filed under: Perfume Reviews

20 Comments Add your own

  • 1. Tom Pease  |  November 15th, 2006 at 1:17 am

    I’ve tried several of these in their store in Venice (the Los Angeles one). I like them: there are several of them are quite wonderful (having written that, their website is unusable, a design mess) I likes them, but sadly their lasting power was not great. If my income level was about five times what is now, I’d pop for a couple of these.

  • 2. newproducts  |  November 15th, 2006 at 6:26 am

    These DO sound interesting. However, knowing that I’m neither the “daring or impetuous” kind nor very “unconventional”, I think I will start by testing L’Invisible. But the samples are quite expensive, no? That may be a turnoff for me.

  • 3. Elle  |  November 15th, 2006 at 7:35 am

    I adore the SIPs. If I could afford to do it, I’d buy at least three-quarters of the line. I’m completely indifferent to whether or not her scents are all natural and the flowers are picked by confirmed virgins who have just bathed in pure water of mountain streams at dawn and I also agree w/ Tom that the website is an utter nightmare to negotiate, but the scents themselves are just beyond brilliant. They’re all stunningly complex and beautifully executed. Boredom never sets in w/ these.

  • 4. Judith  |  November 15th, 2006 at 7:51 am

    I have not yet tried these 3, but so far, I haven’t had much luck with SIPs. That makes me feel boring and conventional. I want so much to like them; I try to think of myself, at least, as daring and impetuous. To this end, I keep testing (and retesting) Black Rosette, which sounds like something I should adore, and which all my scent relatives seem to swoon over. But no go. I have to admit, though, that this and Narcotic (better, but still problematic) are the only ones with which I have waited for the drydown. Perhaps I need to test some other scents. . .:)

  • 5. Marina  |  November 15th, 2006 at 8:25 am

    My absolute favorites are Vine and Black Rosette. Like Elle, I could not care less how amazingly natural the scents might be, this kind of coy marketing sounds like blah blah blah to my ears. I am not saying that I don’t believe they are natural, I’m just saying I like the scents regardless. And like Tom, I wish they did something to their horrendous site. But that’s neither here nor there. Thank you for the wonderful review!

  • 6. Ina  |  November 15th, 2006 at 10:43 am

    Tom, the lasting power is average on my skin. The price is definitely hefty.

  • 7. Ina  |  November 15th, 2006 at 10:44 am

    Newproducts, yes, the samples are pricey. L’Invisible is definitely worth a try, though. :)

  • 8. Ina  |  November 15th, 2006 at 10:46 am

    Elle, I thought flowers picked by virgins was your thing, no? Darn. The scents are complex and never boring, and I agree, the web site is a nightmare.

  • 9. Ina  |  November 15th, 2006 at 10:47 am

    Judith, Black Rosette didn’t do much for me either but I can see you liking L’Invisible or Etrange.

  • 10. Ina  |  November 15th, 2006 at 10:48 am

    Marinchik, I haven’t tried Vine yet. Yes, the web site is definitely the least user-friendly.

  • 11. Judith  |  November 15th, 2006 at 11:28 am

    Ok, on your recommendation I ALMOST ordered samples of these (+ Marina’s vine), until I realized that in addition to the high prices, they wanted over $12 for shipping. For three samples???? Sheesh!

  • 12. March  |  November 15th, 2006 at 12:47 pm

    The name really annoys me, it seems so self-consciously hip. But what do I know, I should smell them.

  • 13. Ina  |  November 15th, 2006 at 12:58 pm

    Judith, that is insane!

  • 14. Ina  |  November 15th, 2006 at 12:59 pm

    March, I see what you mean but they’re still worth trying.

  • 15. violetnoir  |  November 15th, 2006 at 1:11 pm

    I had the pleasure of meeting Alexandra and her sister, Athena, several years ago at her original Venice store, a lovely craftsmen style house. The marketing really does sound pretentious, but I found her to be friendly, warm and very, very down-to-earth.

    My favorite from the line is also L’Invisible. I almost sprung for a small bottle, but changed my mind. I guess I really don’t like the way “natural” perfumes smell on my skin.

    Hugs!

  • 16. Cait  |  November 15th, 2006 at 1:21 pm

    I can’t say these sound appealing to me but maybe if I stumbled upon them I’d feel differently. They sound discordant and more thematic than classically composed.

  • 17. Ina  |  November 15th, 2006 at 1:34 pm

    Robin, how interesting! Yes, I see what you mean. Most natural perfumes don’t smell that great on my skin either. I find SIPs exceptionally made, though.

  • 18. Ina  |  November 15th, 2006 at 1:35 pm

    Cait, they’re definitely narrative more than wearable but still worth a try.

  • 19. Tom  |  November 16th, 2006 at 1:12 pm

    I believe some of these are being carried at Barneys (they are in the catalog at least, so if some of you are close to one you can call and see if they have it.

    They were just a bit too pricey for me for their lasting power, but were beautiful. If I were in a higher income bracket, I’d get at least three of them.

  • 20. Ina  |  November 16th, 2006 at 10:23 pm

    Tom, yes, Barney’s carries some of them. Not all Barney’s, though. I’m with you on the price.

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