Les Nez Perfumes
November 6th, 2006
I believe perfume is art. However, the art factory perfume produced today takes away from the artistic expression. Inevitably (and thankfully so!), there are those who rise and bravely stand against the mass market giant by skillfully creating truly one of a kind fragrances. One of such heroes, shall we call them, is the new Swiss perfume line – Les Nez. Founded by Rene Schifferle, a perfume aficionado (read an interview here), in collaboration with Isabelle Doyen (the nose behind several Annick Goutal creations), Les Nez is a novel concept not as much in its dedication to freedom of expression as its rather abstract approach. Inspired by the Frederic Malle’s idea, Les Nez creations take the concept further: the scents are abstract, almost subconscious experiences rather than interpretations of a flower or an object. Their non-conformist nature demands to be experienced rather than understood. They might not impress you but they won’t leave you indifferent.
Les Nez doesn’t list the notes for their perfumes which I find somewhat fascinating as it only emphasizes the need to experience the scent rather than interpret it. In my reviews below, I’ll quote the scent descriptions from their web site. I’d also like to add that in the few times I’ve tested the scents, I found something new every time – the impressions are by no means conclusive.
The Unicorn Spell – “If by dawn still linger on your skin mixed scents of leaves, frost, and violet blooms, and the relentless yearning for stellar sights, you will know that, at night, you felt the milky breath of a unicorn”. Probably the most unique of the three, The Unicorn Spell is a violet scent. Violet flower and violet leaves chilled by the morning frost. The chilly effect subsides a little revealing a more vulnerable nature underneath – a soft, gentle, green violet.
Let Me Play The Lion – “Scents of dusty trails, of lightly sweetened ochre, of sun-weathered wood, of silence swept by mild breezes, of skies open like an endless azure cut oozing signs, of the coming storm”. Undoubtedly my favorite, Let Me Play The Lion is the scent of dust – house dust, sawdust, ashes, trail dust. It wins me over with its soft amber accord in the drydown and the added smoky quality. While originally created for men, it can easily appeal to women.
L’Antimatiere (The Antimatter) – “An invisible ink that leaves a trace, foreseen rather than felt, persistent, yet whispered, like a creased bed linen scent wandering along your curves…” The name speaks for itself – an anti-scent with practically no smell upon first contact with skin. The most abstract of the three, L’Antimatiere smells of alcohol and freshly starched white linens. A very dry and austere scent that takes time and some effort to appreciate.
Les Nez perfumes can be purchased directly from their online shop.
Image source: www.lesnez.com
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16 Comments
1. chaya ruchama | November 6th, 2006 at 6:49 am
Good morning, Inushka-
I recently sampled these, and appreciate their originality.
While I enjoy them all, I have found them to be very linear.
Oddly enough- although it is the most subtle of the three, the 3rd scent lasts the longest.
I find that there is very little “drydown ” or development; that aspect is one I find disturbing.
And while they smell lovely, I won’t buy them, because of the short time on my skin, and the dearth of change.
I know I’m an odd one, but I really look forward to what happens after you apply perfumes…how do they manifest themselves.
With Les Nez, what you smell is what you get- NOT a bad thing- but not what I llong for…
2. March | November 6th, 2006 at 7:05 am
Aaargh! Looking forward to the arrival of my samples. My guess is that I’m going to like all three of these.
3. Elle | November 6th, 2006 at 7:32 am
I really can’t pick a favorite from this line. Unicorn Spell (which I continue to insist should have been called Dame Daemon) and CB’s Violet Empire are making me rethink my somewhat neutral stance on violet scents. I was floored by how much I loved Dame Daemon. On my skin it really does go through a fair number of fascinating changes, but nowhere near as many changes as L’Antimatiere did. That one didn’t really impress me for the first hour, but then suddenly it transformed into this amazing, rich scent and continued to tranform for the next couple of hours. However, DH can’t smell it almost at all. Interesting.
4. Judith | November 6th, 2006 at 8:13 am
I liked all three of these. So far, I am torn, like Elle, between the lovely Unicorn and the fascinating Antimatiere; both changed quite a bit on my skin, too. I am still awaiting my “official” samples, though; I got to try these through the generosity of a friend:)
5. Marina | November 6th, 2006 at 8:19 am
I still can’t smell L’Animatiere
But I adore the other two. Thank you for a great review!
6. leopoldo | November 6th, 2006 at 8:37 am
I ran out of my sample of ‘Lion’ during my week of work in nNorway – the dry and dusty smell you capture so beautifully in your words seemed precisely right for the damp autumns of Bergen. L’Antimatiere is interesting – sometimes I’m anosmic, other times I get all manner of things, from the ink opening to a satisfyingly rumpled bed smell – almost, rather than totally, clean sheets, with human warmth radiating through them. Unicorn I can admire but don’t like – it has leaked and scented EVERYTHING! And I can’t get past Cait’s green bean reference in her blog. The violets are there, but that green bean is jumping up over everything!
7. Patty | November 6th, 2006 at 11:28 am
Okay, I caved and ordered. You guys are just relentless in your love for these!!
8. Ina | November 6th, 2006 at 2:59 pm
Chaya, that’s too bad they didn’t develop on your skin. I wouldn’t say they develop a lot but they definitely go through stages on mine. I don’t think you’re odd at all! I don’t like perfumes that just sit there either.
9. Ina | November 6th, 2006 at 2:59 pm
March, my guess is you will.
10. Ina | November 6th, 2006 at 3:01 pm
Elle, I’m yet to play more with L’Antimatiere. I have little patience with this one, I guess.
As for Dame Daemon, for the life of me cannot find that painting online…
11. Ina | November 6th, 2006 at 3:01 pm
Judith, I’m surprised you didn’t mention The Lion!
12. Ina | November 6th, 2006 at 3:02 pm
Marina, you and I both. Sigh.
13. Ina | November 6th, 2006 at 3:04 pm
Leo, damp autumn of Bergen! Have never been to Norway but that’s not too far from my home. *feeling homesick* Funny about the green bean. I don’t really get that. I get tons of greenness but more like green leaves.
14. Ina | November 6th, 2006 at 3:04 pm
Patty, can’t wait for your report!
15. Tigs | November 6th, 2006 at 3:18 pm
I have heard little about the Lion – everybody seems to be going on about the Unicorn. Your description of the former sounds lovely – it sounds almost like the love child of Dzing! (which I can’t smell, sadly) and Bois D’Armenie, which I like.
16. Ina | November 6th, 2006 at 4:48 pm
Tigs, the Lion isn’t as powdery as BdA or leathery as Dzing! It’s just dusty and sort of airy.