Perfume Review: Tubereuse 40 by Le Labo
November 2nd, 2006
Le Labo is an exclusive and still fairly new perfume boutique in New York that prides itself in “freshly hand made scents developed by some of the world’s most renowned noses”. A similar approach to that of Frederic Malle’s is used, the exception being the fragrances are mixed right there and then, on the spot, upon your purchasing them. I find this novel concept quite fascinating with perhaps just one reservation - I wonder how this type of mixing affects the quality and longevity of the scent (an average of one year, per Le Labo folks). Nevertheless, Le Labo creations are note-worthy. A few months back I briefly talked about their Jasmin 17. Today, I’d like to share my impressions on their newest - Tubereuse 40.
Tubereuse 40 is developed in partnership with Alberto Morillas, the nose behind such well known fragrances as Bvlgari Omnia, Kenzo Flower, Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon. It features the notes of benzoin, bergamote, neroli, petitgrain, citron, rosemary, cedar, orange blossom, rose, jasmine, mandarin, mimosa, oakmoss, sandalwood, musk (courtesy of Now Smell This). It’s also said to have a unisex, “eau de cologne” identity. The scent is exclusive to the New York City, the first one of their upcoming collection of city-specific fragrances, the ones you’ll have to travel to get which means exactly that - no phone or internet orders will be allowed.
This is the point where I go slightly berserk. Not as much due to the previous paragraph as the actual affect the fragrance has on me. It just puts me in a giggly mood. First of all, the notes. You might as well forget what I just listed above. It’s an explosion in a citrus factory. It has every possible citrus fruit, freshly squeezed or burst open, so bright and juicy it makes you giddy. Marina called it “the essence of summer, bottled”. I call it an olfactory equivalent of those SAD (Seasonal Affective Disorder) lamps. It practically forces you into a happy mood - no gloom allowed! Which (illogically) brings me to the next point in question - the tuberose. Or lack thereof. Seriously, I get no tuberose here. You know, how some people tend to name their kids all sorts of odd names? It almost seems like the case here - like Tubereuse is the new cool name, so let’s name our perfume that. Don’t get me wrong, I do like the scent. I just find the whole concept a bit humorous. So, basically, citrus is all it is, with some muskiness in the drydown and perhaps some jasmine thrown in for kicks. I want to say I’ll reach for it this winter but only in socially safe situations.
Tubereuse 40 is available at both the Le Labo shop and Barney’s in New York. But remember, you have to be physically present there.
Image source: from the press release.
Entry Filed under: New Perfumes, Perfume Reviews
17 Comments Add your own
1. Elle | November 3rd, 2006 at 7:39 am
I’m wary of citrus scents, but you have me convinced I will love this. However, that *only* in NY is definitely troubling. Yes, it’s a damn good excuse for a trip…but what happens if they do a fab scent for their Houston store? The price is also troubling for a scent that changes after only a year. Well, my hopes are pinned on ebay decants.
2. Judith | November 3rd, 2006 at 8:09 am
You know, I bought a small (1/2 oz.) bottle of this, and I’m so glad I did! I keep liking it more and more (and Elle–I am the anti-citrus girl:). The really citrusy part only lasts a little while one me, and it’s quite pleasant (which citrus rarely is on me). Then, it gets floral (and I swear I smell Tub. along with Jasmine and others here, but I might be fooling myself), and finally musky. Beautiful!! A friend who tried it found it mostly orange blossom on her skin–but she really liked it, too. But the policy is stupid, and I am having a hard time believing that the SAs at Barney’s will enforce it if their favorite customers call up and beg (AKA demand:) it. I am not persuaded that it will ‘change” more than other “fumes. When the Le Labo guys gave their presentation, they said this was true of all fragrances. But it was too expensive for me to afford more:)
3. Marina | November 3rd, 2006 at 9:11 am
I like your theory about the Ll Labo names…in that case I am grateful they didn’t call this one Audioscience. And if you don’t belive me that there is a poor celebrity kid out there named Audioscience, please google.
And SAD Lamp comment- so true!!
4. Lucy | November 3rd, 2006 at 10:59 am
Not really tuberose! But that’s a plus, as far as I’m concerned. Sounds perfect for the coming winter doldrums…
5. annE | November 3rd, 2006 at 11:47 am
I tried a spritz of this from a friend’s bottle (thank you, J!), only because she said it was a tuberose fragrance for tuberose haters (which would include me). I was the one who got mostly orange blossom. (Or neroli?) No tuberose. It’s a lovely fragrance; it smells very plush and of excellent quality.
But that name game….
And that marketing stuff…
Oy.
Am I just too old for this nonsense?
6. Ina | November 3rd, 2006 at 3:51 pm
Elle, I guess it’ll be a good excuse to visit New York (not that you needed one).
7. Ina | November 3rd, 2006 at 3:52 pm
Judith, this citrus-jasmine blend is quite lovely here. If it was just plain citrus, I doubt I’d like it as much. I agree, the whole idea is just a bit ridiculous.
8. Ina | November 3rd, 2006 at 3:52 pm
Marina, LOL!
9. Ina | November 3rd, 2006 at 3:53 pm
Lucy, yes, it’s perfect for the gloomy winter ahead…
10. Ina | November 3rd, 2006 at 3:54 pm
AnnE, I get lots of neroli, I think. It’s hard to tell as, like I said, it’s an explosion on citrus.
No, you’re not too old. It is nonsense!
11. Cait | November 3rd, 2006 at 4:59 pm
Hello,
I really liked this one. Your impression is right on. I don’t know why I didn’t stress the citrus in my description. I think it’s like a tonic. Drinkable.
12. March | November 3rd, 2006 at 5:30 pm
We’re having the dueling flowers over here — Tubereuse on one arm, Carnal Flower on the other — okay, I see no tuberose listed in the notes, but I SWEAR that’s what it smells like on me… less citrus. Lovely.
BTW — someone’s already selling decants of this on eBay. So as far as their store policy — good luck with that, guys.
13. Ina | November 4th, 2006 at 12:42 pm
Cait, I agree, it is like a tonic.
14. Ina | November 4th, 2006 at 12:47 pm
March, you’re lucky you get the tuberose. And I totally second your last sentence.
15. Parisjasmal | November 10th, 2006 at 7:28 pm
I agree with you Ina. I get more Neroli in Tubereuse and more ocean notes in Neroli. I am glad to know you feel the same way about the Tubereuse. I just thought I was not cool enough to “get it”. HA!
16. Ina | November 11th, 2006 at 11:20 pm
Jen, you crack me up! Yes, Neroli is definitely marine.
17. Aromascope » Aldehy&hellip | February 26th, 2007 at 11:34 pm
[…] Le Labo, the hip, New York based fragrance line, has come up with what they seem to think a brilliant idea of exclusivity: creating city-specific perfumes, namely, they’re only available for purchase in that city and require your physical presence. The first one, Tubereuse 40, was crafted for New York where it can be purchased at Barney’s or Le Labo boutique. The next one in line is Aldehyde 44 to honor the city of Dallas and its newly reopened Barney’s. What’s behind this incongruous idea is beyond me. Do they want us to travel to these cities to help the economy? Do they want us to simply suffer over not being able to even place a phone or online order? Or is it simply a random, whimsical concept? I’m afraid I don’t have the answers. What I do have the answer to, though, is the question whether the perfumes are good - yes, they are. Moreover, the city-specific ones leave a much better impression on me than their regular range. Such is the case with Aldehyde 44 - it is the best Le Labo scent so far. End of rant, for the scent’s sake alone (for now). […]
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