Archive for November 2nd, 2006

Perfume Review: Tubereuse 40 by Le Labo

Tubereuse 40Le Labo is an exclusive and still fairly new perfume boutique in New York that prides itself in “freshly hand made scents developed by some of the world’s most renowned noses”. A similar approach to that of Frederic Malle’s is used, the exception being the fragrances are mixed right there and then, on the spot, upon your purchasing them. I find this novel concept quite fascinating with perhaps just one reservation – I wonder how this type of mixing affects the quality and longevity of the scent (an average of one year, per Le Labo folks). Nevertheless, Le Labo creations are note-worthy. A few months back I briefly talked about their Jasmin 17. Today, I’d like to share my impressions on their newest – Tubereuse 40.

Tubereuse 40 is developed in partnership with Alberto Morillas, the nose behind such well known fragrances as Bvlgari Omnia, Kenzo Flower, Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon. It features the notes of benzoin, bergamote, neroli, petitgrain, citron, rosemary, cedar, orange blossom, rose, jasmine, mandarin, mimosa, oakmoss, sandalwood, musk (courtesy of Now Smell This). It’s also said to have a unisex, “eau de cologne” identity. The scent is exclusive to the New York City, the first one of their upcoming collection of city-specific fragrances, the ones you’ll have to travel to get which means exactly that – no phone or internet orders will be allowed.

This is the point where I go slightly berserk. Not as much due to the previous paragraph as the actual affect the fragrance has on me. It just puts me in a giggly mood. First of all, the notes. You might as well forget what I just listed above. It’s an explosion in a citrus factory. It has every possible citrus fruit, freshly squeezed or burst open, so bright and juicy it makes you giddy. Marina called it “the essence of summer, bottled”. I call it an olfactory equivalent of those SAD (Seasonal Affective Disorder) lamps. It practically forces you into a happy mood – no gloom allowed! Which (illogically) brings me to the next point in question – the tuberose. Or lack thereof. Seriously, I get no tuberose here. You know, how some people tend to name their kids all sorts of odd names? It almost seems like the case here – like Tubereuse is the new cool name, so let’s name our perfume that. Don’t get me wrong, I do like the scent. I just find the whole concept a bit humorous. So, basically, citrus is all it is, with some muskiness in the drydown and perhaps some jasmine thrown in for kicks. I want to say I’ll reach for it this winter but only in socially safe situations.

Tubereuse 40 is available at both the Le Labo shop and Barney’s in New York. But remember, you have to be physically present there.

Image source: from the press release.

17 comments November 2nd, 2006

Current Lemmings

My nose seems to be playing tricks one me these days, so no review today. Instead, I want to honor my current lemmings, even in this written way, before they get the better of me. It always seems to come in stages. I can go on with no lemmings for days and feel completely satisfied with all of my perfumes. Then, a whole bunch of them hit me all at once. Resistance is futile. I figured if I write them down here, at least I’ll feel some sort of control. So, here’s my list:

  • Eau Suave by Parfum d’Empire (a bottle)
  • Shalimar parfum (the vintage version) by Guerlain (a bottle)
  • Parure by Guerlain (to revisit)
  • Isabey Gardenia (a bottle – the new one looks stunning)
  • Carnal Flower by Frederic Malle (a bottle)
  • Chanel No 22 eau de toilette (a bottle)
  • Miss Dior by Dior (a bottle)
  • Vega by Guerlain (a bottle)
  • Bois Orientale by Serge Lutens (a decant)
  • Thierry Mugler Le Parfum Coffret (wah!)
  • Flowerbomb Extreme by Viktor & Rolf (just love that new bottle)
  • Miller Harris Rose en Noir (the elusive one – a bottle for sure)
  • Rose Angel by Thierry Mugler (a bottle)

Please make me feel better and list yours!!

15 comments November 2nd, 2006


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