There’s an amazing slideshow article on classic perfumes on Style.com highlighting the scents of the time, with background information on perfumers, notes, etc. I highly recommend checking it out!
3 comments November 30th, 2006
Paprika Brasil is the sixth scent in the Hermessence collection, created by the Hermes in-house perfumer Jean Claude Ellena, (also known as the creator of The Different Company fragrances, Bois Farine and Ambre Extreme by L’Artisan Parfumeur). The scent is said to be inspired by the popular in the 50s “Tristes Tropiques” book by Claude Levi-Strauss that focuses on the loss of rainforest in Brazil as well as introduction of exotic spices to Europe. Paprika Brasil is a sort of an olfactory tribute to “bois de braise” (Brazilwood – where the name of Brazil is derived from), rendered with predominantly pimento and iris. Paprika Brasil has already been reviewed on several perfume blogs, and, while I can somewhat relate to the general impression of it being rather insipid (based solely on anticipation of a dense spicy oriental), I must say I’m actually pleasantly surprised by how much it appeals to me. I don’t find it insipid – moderately rich would be my pick. Very much in the style of Jean Claude Ellena, yet significantly less transparent than, say, Terre d’Hermes.
Paprika Brasil features the notes of pimento, clove, paprika, iris, green leaves, reseda, ember wood. In contrast to its name and inspiration, Paprika Brasil is more about iris than anything else. It starts out with a mix of fiery pimento and dusty paprika that softly settles on skin bringing out the slightly powdery and carrot-like iris note. The scent develops a gentle green accord that very much reminds me of Bois d’Iris by The Different Company with its mild woody undertone. The drydown is quite surprising: from the burning hot top notes the scent morphs into an almost mellow, creamy-soft orris. It stays close to skin, it doesn’t beg to be noticed. It just puts you in a state of reflective tranquility.
Paprika Brasil is availabe at select Hermes boutiques.
Image source: www.cosmoty.de
20 comments November 30th, 2006
Tom Ford Black Orchid was one of my major anticipations this year: its promise to bring retro glamour back to perfume as well as the rendition of a one-of-a-kind flower of black orchid captivated me to the point of infatuation. It was evident from the start the scent would be somewhat controversial (consider other perfumes created under Tom Ford’s direction – M7, Gucci, Youth Dew Amber Nude). I can take controversial any time (unless it’s pretentious) – there’re way too many smell-and-forgets (SAFs) out there. When it comes to perfume, I like to be challenged, provoked, haunted. Black Orchid did jus that, and it is after numerous skin tests that I’m writing this review.
Classified as a spicy oriental, the accord of black orchid is achieved with the help of opulent floral and fruity notes (ylang-ylang, jasmine, bergamot, black currant) on the base of patchouli and woods. Upon first contact with skin, the scent strikes me as bitterly dirty and edibly creamy simultaneously. It’s a rather pungent beginning, almost to the point of being appalling. As it’s claimed to be the modern version of retro glamour, I can’t help but wonder if “modern” in today’s perfumery translates into everything sweet and vanillic. The “noir” retro chic is definitely there, and for that alone I can tolerate the vanilla. What I cannot tolerate is the underlying aquatic note that manages to permeate the scent in all stages of development. I’m puzzled as to its source – it must be the black truffle. I can only imagine it smelling wet and earthy (in this case, more wet than earthy). Combined with the base notes of patchouli, incense, vetiver, amber, and sandalwood, it has a jarring, obtrusive effect. Black Orchid leaves a smothering impression on me – I cannot help but find the fragrance overpacked. It will definitely wear you. It will dominate. It will intimidate. It will rip up all the retro glamour with its excessive forcefulness and lack of grace.
Tom Ford Black Orchid is available at Neiman Marcus.
Image source: www.neimanmarcus.com
25 comments November 28th, 2006
I’m back from the Thanksgiving festivities and have started my new job, so a bit behind. I do plan to review one of this year’s most noteworthy new releases – Tom Ford Black Orchid. Stay tuned!
8 comments November 28th, 2006
Big Turkey Day is tomorrow, and we’re heading out of town. I must say in all my seven years of living in the U.S., the Thanksgiving meal has certainly been one of the highlights. So, off I go, with a whole bunch of fun scents to test for next week’s reviews. In the meantime, please check out a lovely article in the December issue of Vogue, titled Finding My Nose by Catherine Piercy. A fun read about discovering perfumes and the quest for the signature scent. Happy Thanksgiving to all the American readers! Have a lovely rest of the week, all!
Image source: www.corbis.com
4 comments November 22nd, 2006
A bit unusual post today but I just had this idea last night I had to lay it out here. What if I got a chance to stand in front of an open microphone and say whatever I want to say to all the perfume companies, perfumers, and just people involved in perfume making today or in days past? What would I say? Here’re a few things I’d get off my chest:
What would you get off your chest?
Image source: www.corbis.com
16 comments November 21st, 2006
Dr. Vranjes fragrances caught my attention recently, after I saw them mentioned in a Beautyhabit newsletter and later on in a Bergdorf Goodman catalog. Needless to say, samples were ordered promptly. Looking at the hefty price tag, for some reason I cynically assumed it was yet another pompous perfume line that prides itself in exclusivity more than anything else. Little did I know it’s actually produced by the creator of Antica Farmacista (a well known Italian home and personal fragrance line created using ancient artisan techniques). This fact alone added a bit more credibility, and off I went to test the scents (just the three women’s ones, for the time being). According to Beautyhabit, Dr. Vranjes is a Florence based artisan perfumer who has his own boutique-laboratory where he works primarily with the finest essences as well as doing “research into the fields of cosmetology and fragrances for personal use and for the home.” The line is marked by luxury and antiquity, perhaps a bit too much for my taste, yet I found testing the fragrances a pleasant and slightly hedonistic experience.
Cassiopea – with notes of ylang-ylang, jasmine, iris, rose, and rosewood, the scent has a luminous, glowing effect. It starts out as a sweet, almost balsamic rose and ylang-ylang blend, with the heart centered around iris, and a charming, slightly spicy drydown. Rose is at the center of attention, lounging on balsamic ylang-ylang cushions. Cassiopea is all about repose and luxury.
Esperia – algae, wood, moss, saline accord. Basically, an ozonic light floral. Airy and fresh, reminiscent of a fresh ocean breeze. Typically, a red flag for me but to give it some credit, it is indeed nicely done. The mossy accord gives it a slightly green quality reminiscent of fresh cut grass. Overall, Esperia will appeal to the lovers of fresh, aquatic florals. (Sorry, not much eloquence here).
Elettra – iris, jasmine, amber, myrrh. My favorite of the three, Elettra is a sensual, plush floral oriental. It starts out with a sweet, jam-like iris and jasmine, accentuated by honeyed ambery warmth. There’s also a touch of patchouli-like dirtiness that eventually melds into the composition. The drydown is marked by viscous, sweet myrrh that’s simultaneously stirring and comforting.
Final verdict: while I find the fragrances well blended and quite delightful, I notice they’re not exhibiting much development on skin and seem to possess the home diffuser quality, i.e., they’d make excellent home fragrances. Perhaps the price is somewhat off-putting. Regardless, they manage to keep my heart still and do not cause any rash behavior which, I might add, is a bit disappointing.
Image source: www.beautyhabit.com
13 comments November 20th, 2006
Yesterday was the coldest and windiest day in Chicago since summer ended but that didn’t prevent me from going out and meeting up with the coolest Jen aka Monkey Posh. Be sure to check out her blog where she’s raving about us running into Tim Gunn. She did most of the talking and hovering over the guy while I just stood there blinking and smiling happily (for the record, he shook my hand). I’ve only seen a total of about 2 Project Runway episodes, so I was just mostly mesmerized by Mr.Gunn’s exceptionally friendly demeanor. I swear I’m not just writing this for the sake of name dropping – today’s Friday, and I’ve sniffed enough this week to put my brain into a temporary stupor and for the life of me cannot get my thoughts together to write a review. Nothing wrong with occasional randomness, especially when it’s done fashionably. Ha! We did, however, get to smell a few things here and there, and I was absolutely astounded by the fact I’d never actually smelled Christian Dior’s super classy Eau Sauvage! Created in 1966 as the first Dior’s men’s fragrance, Eau Sauvage is a zesty citrus chypre that’s just so incredibly refined, timeless, and genderless that I almost slapped myself for not discovering it earlier. Now that I think of it, it’d be a perfect fragrance for Mr.Gunn.
Are there any fragrances you tried recently that made you want to slap yourself in a similar fashion? Happy weekend, all!
34 comments November 17th, 2006
It’s been getting rather cold in Chicago, with fall pretty much saying good-bye, and the first apparent threats of winter in the air, i.e., the harsh winds and general damp chilliness (it’s often windy in Chicago but this is definitely winter winds I’m talking about). My natural tendency is to reach for scents heavy on spice, woods, and amber. Surprisingly so, today’s scent for review is none of the above. Isfarkand by Ormonde Jayne is categorized as an “effervescent” and “sparkling” scent for men. As a side note, Ormonde Jayne is a small niche perfumery in London with a stunning collection of fragrances and bath & body products. I strongly admire all of their scents, my favorite being Orris Noir, followed closely by Tolu and Ta’if. There’re only two men’s scents in the line, although unisex would be a better way to put it.
Isfarkand features the notes of lime, mandarin, bergamot, pink pepper, cedar, vetiver, and moss. It starts out very vibrant, with high-pitched citrus notes, the stage that also explains my desire to review the scent now instead of summer where it would be seemingly more appropriate. Isfarkand is evocative of Christmas or New Year’s (I’m referring mainly to the calendar days as I didn’t grow up celebrating Christmas). This citrusy stage very much reminds me of tangerines and oranges our house would always smell of at New Year’s time. The cedar note brings back memories of freshly cut New Year’s tree. The pink pepper sparkles like Christmas lights. The drydown is a quiet, regal snowy winter evening, with vetiver and moss sobering the composition, and traces of the merriness still lingering. It is a serene, smooth scent. Here I am again, waxing poetic (sort of) and talking about winter holidays when it’s still over a month away. Pardon me for this – I’m not really a fan of winter neither am I looking forward to it. Blame it all on Isfarkand.
Isfarkand can be purchased directly from the Ormonde Jayne shop online.
Image source: www.ormondejayne.com
17 comments November 15th, 2006
Strange Invisible Perfumes is a natural perfume line that prides itself in using the finest botanical ingredients. It was created in 2000 by Alexandra Balahoutis (interview on Now Smell This), who was on a quest to learn the art of botanical perfumery. The line consists of several perfumes that “defy classification” for being representations of botanical essences, with only natural, organic ingredients and fixatives. “We aggressively pursue essences that are organic, wild-crafted, pesticide-free or biodynamically cultivated, and the choice to include them is always based on availability”. Besides the choice of ingredients, Alexandra also favors the use of hydrodistillation, a method that “both honors and captures the soul of the plant as it gently lures the oil from its cellular material, allowing for the use of plants previously considered too delicate to distill.” (Information from the press release).
I first became familiar with the line a couple of years ago, just starting out as a perfume maniac. As you might guess, I was rather underwhelmed – I found the line too weird and ungratifying. The top notes were bizarre and borderline repulsive, the best part was hidden in the drydown that took a while to unfold. Just recently, I got intrigued by them again, as I’ve learnt that the best things in life come with waiting, i.e., in this case, for the drydown. Below are my impressions of just three fragrances, for the time being.
L’Invisible – oakmoss, resins, ylang-ylang, blood orange, hibiscus, vanilla, Moroccan red rose, Sicilian lemon. With rather sharp citrus top notes, the scent unfolds to a hay-like, softly mossy ylang-ylang and rose blend. There’s a distinct herbal quality, with some underlying oiliness that reminds me of the smell of some plant oil. It takes a while to settle on skin and really grows on you. It could be easily classified as soft chypre. L’Invisible is probably my favorite from the line and is quite easy to like.
Tosca – mimosa, jasmine, basil, Parma violet, tobacco leaf, musk, blood orange. Starts out herbal-medicinal with very little appeal. Tosca is said to be a Mediterranean scent, with its character truly showing, once again, in the drydown. The composition is centered around mimosa that’s tea-like in contrast to its typical powdery character. It’s very much a summer countryside perfume, with emphasis on herbs and hay moreso than flowers. It’s quite unconventional and may not be liked by many. In the very drydown, the scent reminds me a little of Armani Pierre de Lune or Parfums de Nicolai Mimosaique.
Etrange – Far Eastern flowers, resins, ginger, benzoin, seaweed. “Etrange meaning strange in French, an aromatic tribute to the lost alchemical art of eighteenth-century perfumery”. Very aromatic ginger and seaweed with an apparent aquatic accord in top notes that takes a resinous turn as the scent develops. In my imagination, this is what the bottom of the ocean smells like – sort of dirty, green, gooey. The drydown is accentuated by soft, honeyed amber. Etrange is a perfect scent for the daring, impetuous kind.
Strange Invisilbe Perfumes are available from their Los Angeles boutique as well as Barney’s New York.
Image source: www.barneys.com
20 comments November 14th, 2006
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