Perfume Review: Bois d’Ombrie by Eau d’Italie

October 26th, 2006

Bois d'OmbrieBois d’Ombrie is a new fragrance in the Eau d’Italie line, created by Bertrand Duchaufour who’s also the nose behind their Paestum Rose as well as L’Artisan Dzongkha, Poivre Piquant, Mechant Loup. (courtesy of Now Smell This). It’s said to be inspired by the Umbrian woods of Italy which makes it a predominantly woody scent. Just like Paestum Rose, its composition seems impeccable, and, while it’s certainly impressive and unusual, it falls into the category of fragrances with only conceptual appeal. In other words, I admire it for its concept, yet find it lacking as far as wearability. Don’t get me wrong: it does sit well on the skin. It does not, however, move anywhere, it seems.

Bois d’Ombrie features the notes of cognac, whisky, iris, leather, myrrh, opoponax, patchouli, tobacco, vetiver. In spite of its liquor notes, the scent doesn’t have that boozy quality. It starts out rather bitter, with a dark iris note. This initial stage is quite appealing but it doesn’t seem to last long. The next stage is mostly pepper (although not listed as a note) with a hint of patchouli to my nose, still rather bitter, reminiscent of some herbal brew. The drydown has a dark, dusty effect, with vetiver coming into play. Oddly enough, Bois d’Ombrie doesn’t seem to conjure up images of woods. It’s reminiscent of old, unpolished wood furniture and bitter herbal remedies. If I could tweak it a little, I’d add more sweetness, perhaps amber or just a tad of vanilla. I’d also make it go wild on my skin. Alas, I have no such powers, so I’ll resign to simple, quiet appreciation.

Bois d’Ombrie is available at Aedes and Lafco.

Image source: www.aedes.com

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14 Comments

  • 1. chaya ruchama  |  October 27th, 2006 at 5:53 am

    How sad, pretty one…
    I sent to Aedes for samples, because it truly sounded lovely- and also, because it was EdP.
    I await these currently.
    I liked Paestum Rose abstractly, but I didn’t find that it lasted, nor did it particularly flatter my chemistry…
    Well…perhaps it saves us some chump change, heh ?

    Thanks for the sniff, and have a restful w/e !
    Kisses to you…

  • 2. Elle  |  October 27th, 2006 at 6:33 am

    It really is almost impossible to believe that a scent w/ notes that read almost like a dream list of notes for me could end up being flat on my skin. But, yes, in the cold light of day, it is. You’re right – it only has conceptual appeal. :-( I’m seriously mystified by that. I need to try this on DH and see if it works on him because I *want* to love this scent.

  • 3. March  |  October 27th, 2006 at 6:53 am

    Wow. I still can’t wait to try this, because either way it will be very interesting. I thought Paestum Rose was amazing, and I don’t even like rose, particularly. And with those notes in Ombrie! — but I think it’s a skin chemistry thing. Dzongkha (my biggest lemming of the year, probably) just curls up and dies on me. Powdered tea and pickles. Keeping my toes crossed for a different reaction than yours! ;-)

  • 4. Judith  |  October 27th, 2006 at 6:54 am

    Sigh. As Elle said, the notes sound SO perfect! But this was exactly my first impression of the scent. I did get samples, and I was hoping that when tested by itself away from the sniffa, it would blossom on my skin. I still AM hoping this, a little. . .But your review makes that hope seem pretty forlorn. Oh well, lord knows I bought ENOUGH last weekend alreadyI think that (like Chaya) I am just not meant for this line. I like the much touted Paestum Rose well enough, and I am glad to have my decant, but am not moved to pursue it further. And I actively disliked Sienna (though some around me at the sniffa adored it). I still want to like this one, though:)

  • 5. Marina  |  October 27th, 2006 at 7:50 am

    Lovely review! I am still not sure that what I have is a sample of Bois d’O., because it is so unlike its notes on my skin…but reading Elle’s comment made me think that maybe it IS the right sample… and my very wrong skin chemistry :-(

  • 6. Nina  |  October 27th, 2006 at 8:16 am

    I didn’t ‘get’ Paestum Rose, where most others were fainting with pleasure, so I have my doubts about Bois d’Ombrie. However, I don’t much like rose scents anyway, so I was a little hopeful for the new pair. But one thing I don’t need right now is another bottle of juice that I can take the top off and ‘appreciate’, rather tham squirt with abandon and enjoy!

  • 7. Victoria  |  October 27th, 2006 at 10:42 am

    I think that it is very Duchafour in style, and if you liked his other creations, you are bound to like Bois d’Ombrie. I find it very appealing, but I find it too linear to be able to keep an active interest in it for long. For now, I am definitely enjoying it though.

  • 8. Ina  |  October 27th, 2006 at 5:26 pm

    Chaya, abstractly is the key word here. Sigh.

  • 9. Ina  |  October 27th, 2006 at 5:27 pm

    Elle, I know! What a shame.

  • 10. Ina  |  October 27th, 2006 at 5:28 pm

    March, I see a similarity to Dzongkha here, minus the soapiness. You might very well like it.

  • 11. Ina  |  October 27th, 2006 at 5:28 pm

    Judith, yes, a decant is all I’ll need. Really want to love it, too.

  • 12. Ina  |  October 27th, 2006 at 5:29 pm

    Marina, I so wish the notes would go wild on my skin!

  • 13. Ina  |  October 27th, 2006 at 5:31 pm

    Nina, definitely try Bois d’Ombrie. You never know! Skin chemistry is a mysterious thing.

  • 14. Ina  |  October 27th, 2006 at 5:31 pm

    Vika, I agree. Wish it was more complex.


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