Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums
October 25th, 2006
“Perfumes without compromise” is the slogan of Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums that holds true for each of their fragrances. The line is built around the idea of giving a perfumer complete creative freedom as well as giving them open credit (each bottle has the perfumer’s name written on the label). The result is exceptional. These are the perfumes that will not find you. You have to find them. If you seek. I got acquainted with the line about 3 years ago and have admired all of the scents, with a few being steady favorites (Lipstick Rose, Musc Ravageur, Iris Poudre). During my New York visit, I visited the Frederic Malle little room in the Barney’s store and found a few more scents simply impossible to resist.
Musc Ravageur Oil (Maurice Roucel) - bergamot, tangerine, cinnamon, vanilla, musk, amber. The oil concentration is a softer, closer to skin Musc Ravageur, with tame citrus notes and accented vanilla. It comes with a dropper and a spray attachment, depending on your preference. The sprayer works excellently, with a fine mist that puts just enough oil on your skin to rub in. If you’re wondering which concentration is better, I’d say both are equally amazing. The oil is perfect as a cuddly, comfort scent while the eau de parfum will have more presence and sillage.
Une Fleur de Cassie (Dominique Ropion) - mimosa, jasmine, cassie, rose, carnation, vanilla, sandalwood. This should come with a “Proceed With Caution” label. Une Fleur de Cassie was promptly dismissed for its borderline repulsive initial notes - it smells like a mix of fresh paint, paper, and chalk. This time around, however, I was told to let it settle on my skin and wait for a gorgeous result. The waiting takes somewhere between 10-20 minutes, depending on your eagerness, and a breathtaking result you get. The composition is built around mimosa and cassie flower that play up pungent powderiness. The jasmine and carnation add more body. The drydown is sort of chalky floral on a soft sandalwood base. It’s such a non-conformist scent - it’s weird and unique and baffling. It’s the kind you want to call bad names, yet find yourself helplessly captivated by.
Frederic Malle perfumes are available in the U.S. at select Barney’s department stores. They can also be ordered directly from the Editions de Parfums online shop.
Image source: www.editionsdeparfums.com
Entry Filed under: Perfume Reviews
21 Comments Add your own
1. Judith | October 26th, 2006 at 6:54 am
Good buys! Cassie gets lots of bad press, but I think it’s great! As you know, I somehow found myself buying Noir Epices during your visit:) I already own MR and CF in full size–and pretty much all of them in minis. I really love most of them; the signifcant exceptions are the Bigarades, which turn me into the CITRUS MONSTER, but that, I think ,is the fault of my skin:)
2. Elle | October 26th, 2006 at 6:59 am
OK, Uncle…you’ve convinced me - I will have to retry Un Fleur de Cassie. And the oil really is my fav version of MR. Did you not fall for Bigarade Concentree? I couldn’t get through summer w/out it and in winter I wear it as a cheap substitute for a trip to Spain.
3. Marina | October 26th, 2006 at 7:38 am
Malle is easily one of my most favorite perfume lines. Out of…can’t count this early in the morning…out of all their scents I only wouldn’t wear too, and that is simply because I don’t like the star notes in those compositions.
4. greeneyes | October 26th, 2006 at 8:41 am
I love the smell of fresh paint, strange as that may sound, so I need to try Une Fleur de Cassie. I have a sample of the Musc Ravageur perfume…I’ve been blown away by all the Malles I’ve tried so far. I don’t think I’ll ever be able to live without some Le Parfum de Therese.
5. March | October 26th, 2006 at 9:12 am
For the longest time I didn’t know there was anything OTHER than the oil for Musc Ravishing. So when I finally tried the perfume at Barneys it just seemed … wrong. I also love Noir Epices, Carnal Flower and En Passant. Like my FT Judith I loathe the Bigarades, which I keep trying because I should like them, but they smell terrible on me. OK I’ll retry Cassie…
6. newproducts | October 26th, 2006 at 9:40 am
Oh. My. God.
The composition is built around mimosa and cassie flower that play up pungent powderiness. The jasmine and carnation add more body. The drydown is sort of chalky floral on a soft sandalwood base.
This sounds right up my alley. Need! Want!
My favorites are also the three you mentioned, with Iris Poudre and Lipstick Rose being a little ahead of Musc Ravageur. I must get my hands on a sample of Une Fleur de Cassie. Acacia is my favorite floral scent in nature, but it is so hard to capture in perfume.
7. newproducts | October 26th, 2006 at 9:41 am
Oops, the quotes tag didn’t go through. That paragraph starting with “The composition” and ending in “base” was supposed to be in quotes, of course.
8. violetnoir | October 26th, 2006 at 11:16 am
Absolutely, Ina: I need to visit some of these fragrances again.
Thank you for reminding me.
Hugs!
9. Cait | October 26th, 2006 at 12:52 pm
Yeah, I have to try the MR oil now. Too many voices in a chorus.
MR is suitable for today since it is actually SNOWING here and it’s so snuggly spicy. Would I miss the cardamom in the oil? Oh, which reminds me, I am loving Blue Agava and Cacao, thanks to your tip!
10. Ina | October 26th, 2006 at 3:52 pm
Judith, I have nothing to do with Noir Epices! It was Nancy, wasn’t it?
But I’m glad you got it. I’m lemming Une Rose and Carnal Flower now. Sigh.
11. Ina | October 26th, 2006 at 3:52 pm
Elle, no, never really liked Bigarade Concentree. Sorry!
12. Ina | October 26th, 2006 at 3:52 pm
Marina, totally agree!
13. Ina | October 26th, 2006 at 3:53 pm
Greeneyes, the Malle line is just so exquisite and French. I could happily live with just their perfumes for the rest of my life (if I had to, that is).
14. Ina | October 26th, 2006 at 3:54 pm
March, I’m madly in love with Carnal Flower now. Madly. *weeps*
15. Ina | October 26th, 2006 at 3:57 pm
Newproducts, if you call the FM counter at NYC Barney’s, they will send you a sample. Excellent CS.
16. Ina | October 26th, 2006 at 3:57 pm
Robin, glad to please! You must report.
17. Ina | October 26th, 2006 at 3:58 pm
Cait, I get very little cardamom in MR. The oil is just excellent, you’ll love it. Glad you like Blue Agava!
18. chaya ruchama | October 27th, 2006 at 5:48 am
Fleur de Cassie is an acquired taste, but it grows on you- in a good way. While it’s not for everyone, it definitely has grownup appeal.
MR, in any form, is lovely- but the oil is good as a base for layering, a sotto voce kind of thing…
I’m going to confess the unpopular-
Carnal Flower does not work for me- it goes from blatant blast to ’so what?’- and Une Rose leaves me cold [although I love rose]- I needed more dusky truffles in it, I find it bombastic…
Shoot the heretic !
19. Aromascope » Les Ne&hellip | November 6th, 2006 at 12:36 am
[…] I believe perfume is art. However, the art factory perfume produced today takes away from the artistic expression. Inevitably (and thankfully so!), there are those who rise and bravely stand against the mass market giant by skillfully creating truly one of a kind fragrances. One of such heroes, shall we call them, is the new Swiss perfume line - Les Nez. Founded by Rene Schifferle, a perfume aficionado (read an interview here), in collaboration with Isabelle Doyen (the nose behind several Annick Goutal creations), Les Nez is a novel concept not as much in its dedication to freedom of expression as its rather abstract approach. Inspired by the Frederic Malle’s idea, Les Nez creations take the concept further: the scents are abstract, almost subconscious experiences rather than interpretations of a flower or an object. Their non-conformist nature demands to be experienced rather than understood. They might not impress you but they won’t leave you indifferent. […]
20. muzikchick | January 5th, 2007 at 11:30 am
I love the scent of Cassis oil which is sort of a fresh grape scent so I impulsively bought a travel size of Un Fleur de Cassie when I went to the Frederic Malle store in Paris. I have to agree the initial scent is strong but it does settle into a nice scent. It’s a power perfume though not a daily scent unless you like really strong scents. Think Michael Kors, Chanel 5, or Ralph Lauren. Something to make a statement. I think it is the musky notes that give it that strong overtone because when I look at the notes I like most of them except for the musky base notes.
Anyone else out there tried any of the other Frederic Malle scents? Any nice citrus/green or fresh scents you’d recommend? Or are all of the Frederic Malle scents pretty bold?
I’ve been blending my own scents at Fred Segal for awhile now and I hear they have a whole new selection of essential oils to choose from now.
21. Aromascope » Perfum&hellip | August 21st, 2007 at 11:49 pm
[…] developed by some of the world’s most renowned noses”. A similar approach to that of Frederic Malle’s is used, the exception being the fragrances are mixed right there and then, on the spot, upon your […]
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