Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums
“Perfumes without compromise” is the slogan of Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums that holds true for each of their fragrances. The line is built around the idea of giving a perfumer complete creative freedom as well as giving them open credit (each bottle has the perfumer’s name written on the label). The result is exceptional. These are the perfumes that will not find you. You have to find them. If you seek. I got acquainted with the line about 3 years ago and have admired all of the scents, with a few being steady favorites (Lipstick Rose, Musc Ravageur, Iris Poudre). During my New York visit, I visited the Frederic Malle little room in the Barney’s store and found a few more scents simply impossible to resist.
Musc Ravageur Oil (Maurice Roucel) - bergamot, tangerine, cinnamon, vanilla, musk, amber. The oil concentration is a softer, closer to skin Musc Ravageur, with tame citrus notes and accented vanilla. It comes with a dropper and a spray attachment, depending on your preference. The sprayer works excellently, with a fine mist that puts just enough oil on your skin to rub in. If you’re wondering which concentration is better, I’d say both are equally amazing. The oil is perfect as a cuddly, comfort scent while the eau de parfum will have more presence and sillage.
Une Fleur de Cassie (Dominique Ropion) - mimosa, jasmine, cassie, rose, carnation, vanilla, sandalwood. This should come with a “Proceed With Caution” label. Une Fleur de Cassie was promptly dismissed for its borderline repulsive initial notes - it smells like a mix of fresh paint, paper, and chalk. This time around, however, I was told to let it settle on my skin and wait for a gorgeous result. The waiting takes somewhere between 10-20 minutes, depending on your eagerness, and a breathtaking result you get. The composition is built around mimosa and cassie flower that play up pungent powderiness. The jasmine and carnation add more body. The drydown is sort of chalky floral on a soft sandalwood base. It’s such a non-conformist scent - it’s weird and unique and baffling. It’s the kind you want to call bad names, yet find yourself helplessly captivated by.
Frederic Malle perfumes are available in the U.S. at select Barney’s department stores. They can also be ordered directly from the Editions de Parfums online shop.
Image source: www.editionsdeparfums.com
21 comments October 25th, 2006