Perfume Review: Marc Jacobs Autumn Splash

October 16th, 2006

Marc Jacobs Autumn SplashThis month Marc Jacobs introduced the Autumn Splash trio that “captures the essence of fall” - Violet, Ivy, and Amber (the same concept was applied to the summer trio - Cotton, Rain, and Grass). These unisex scents are packaged in simple, minimalist style 10 oz bottles, intended to be applied liberally. Just as I prefer autumn to summer (for the most part, anyway), the autumn trio appealed to me quite a bit. In contrast to rather mediocre and characterless summer trio, Violet, Ivy, and Amber are full-bodied and memorable.

Violet - bergamot, peony, orchid, labdanum, orris, cashmere accord, violet, cedar, vanilla, musk, gingerbread. My favorite of the three, Violet starts out with anything but violet - a predominantly gourmand, cashmere-like floral on a soft woody base. A fascinating take on violet as it’s often combined with either rose (Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose, Guerlain Insolence) or cedarwood (Shiseido Feminite du Bois, Serge Lutens Bois de Violette). But violet and gingerbread? It’s actually really good! Perhaps, not quite full-10-ounce good, more like 1-ounce good, simply because I’d only reach for it in cold weather, and would most likely not apply it liberally as it’s quite potent and lasts well.

Ivy - nutmeg, cardamom, mandarin, candy cane accord, orris, suede, tonka bean, vetiver, sandalwood. I typed these notes in utter disbelief - how could this possibly be what I’m smelling? It’s a rather sharp, citrusy-green scent that drifts toward the masculine side of things (as much as I prefer the genderless approach to perfume). Seriously, where’s the nutmeg? Where’s the cardamom? Candy cane, for that matter? I get lots of sort of aquatic, bitter, green vetiver, and that’s pretty much it. What a letdown.

Amber - crystallised ginger, star anise, amber, lily, cassia bark, cashmere wood, benzoin. To my great surprise (considering how much I adore amber), the earth didn’t move here. If all the amber scents in the world had a contest, this would be eligible simply out of pity (or political correctness). OK, maybe I’m being a bit too harsh (when it comes to amber, I’m pretty much merciless). It’s just that amber is totally drowned in this ginger-anise, toothache-inducing syrup a la Pink Sugar. In no way does this Amber evoke anything autumn-like. Not in my world, anyway.

Autumn Splash trio is available at most department stores.

Image source: from the press release.

Entry Filed under: New Perfumes, Perfume Reviews

15 Comments Add your own

  • 1. March  |  October 16th, 2006 at 6:37 am

    I’m with you on the Ivy — the summer ones were SO LIGHT, so somebody sent MJ a memo saying “make them stronger”? But gawd was it bitter. The amber was meh. So I blew off the violet — my mistake. I love violet. Thanks for your writeup, I’ll be back over to NM for a sniff.

  • 2. Elle  |  October 16th, 2006 at 6:39 am

    10 oz. bottles?? I just don’t understand that. I couldn’t even apply that much of the *lightest* splash. It would require complete year round commitment (something I’m totally lacking w/ perfumes) to just that one scent for me to get through that much. OK, OK…I’ve never been troubled by the idea of having to finish a bottle and I rarely do, but, still…10 oz. is just an akward as h*lll size and I suppose I’m a hard core minimalist when it comes to application (hate excessive sillage). Rant over. :-) I’m thinking I will be needing the Violet one - sound really interesting.

  • 3. Judith  |  October 16th, 2006 at 7:22 am

    Hmmm. . . .Violet sounds nice, but (with L) I can’t imagine wanting 10 oz.! If it’s THAT light, they should simply (as M says) make it stronger!

  • 4. Marina  |  October 16th, 2006 at 7:53 am

    Violet sounds really nice.
    10oz? Would it even fit in my perfume cabinet, I wonder. I thought Cologne Blanche bottle was gigantic, and that one is 1oz-ish smaller.

  • 5. Patty  |  October 16th, 2006 at 7:54 am

    I still can’t find a driving need to even sample any of these splashes. The bottle size is just, well,weird. A couple of these at least sound better than the last splash set.

  • 6. Victoria  |  October 16th, 2006 at 1:33 pm

    You are right on the mark about Pink Sugar and Amber. While Amber was not nearly as sweet on me, it had the same burned caramel quality I found off-putting about Pink Sugar. I did like Ivy and Violet on the card. I need to try them on the skin.

  • 7. Ina  |  October 16th, 2006 at 3:41 pm

    March, are you back? I can’t wait to read about your trip!! You might like the Violet.

  • 8. Ina  |  October 16th, 2006 at 3:42 pm

    Elle, exactly. The issue is commitment. No way can I commit to one perfume, much less 10 oz of it.

  • 9. Ina  |  October 16th, 2006 at 3:43 pm

    Judith, you’ll have to sniff it this wknd, and I’ll be looking for your reaction. :)

  • 10. Ina  |  October 16th, 2006 at 3:43 pm

    Marina, Cologne Blanche is gigantic! I’ll never use it up but I can’t bring myself to get rid of it either.

  • 11. Ina  |  October 16th, 2006 at 3:44 pm

    Patty, oh, you must sample them!

  • 12. Ina  |  October 16th, 2006 at 3:44 pm

    Vika, I think you’ll like the Violet.

  • 13. Nina  |  October 16th, 2006 at 6:08 pm

    I liked the Ivy best of the three! I’m an amber lover, but the Amber came bottom of the heap for me. I also noted that none of these has great longevity - struck me that I’d need to respray a lot…hence the huge bottles.

  • 14. chaya ruchama  |  October 17th, 2006 at 6:04 am

    I enjoyed these, but not in a FBW-way, agree with longevity issue…that’s why they come in industrial size, I suppose !

    Probably best for those who love to reapply, or perhaps worry about offending with over- application [what’s that?].

  • 15. Stella Chambers  |  January 11th, 2008 at 7:32 pm

    I got the amber today and did not feel it was that good!!!. I have marc jacobs cucmbers and I just love it .Its well worth every penny of 65.00 , but I only paid 39.00 for the amber and Iam glad that all I spent, it not hit on much. Bath and Body have a amber that is very nice!

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