Perfume Review: Marc Jacobs Autumn Splash
This month Marc Jacobs introduced the Autumn Splash trio that “captures the essence of fall” - Violet, Ivy, and Amber (the same concept was applied to the summer trio - Cotton, Rain, and Grass). These unisex scents are packaged in simple, minimalist style 10 oz bottles, intended to be applied liberally. Just as I prefer autumn to summer (for the most part, anyway), the autumn trio appealed to me quite a bit. In contrast to rather mediocre and characterless summer trio, Violet, Ivy, and Amber are full-bodied and memorable.
Violet - bergamot, peony, orchid, labdanum, orris, cashmere accord, violet, cedar, vanilla, musk, gingerbread. My favorite of the three, Violet starts out with anything but violet - a predominantly gourmand, cashmere-like floral on a soft woody base. A fascinating take on violet as it’s often combined with either rose (Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose, Guerlain Insolence) or cedarwood (Shiseido Feminite du Bois, Serge Lutens Bois de Violette). But violet and gingerbread? It’s actually really good! Perhaps, not quite full-10-ounce good, more like 1-ounce good, simply because I’d only reach for it in cold weather, and would most likely not apply it liberally as it’s quite potent and lasts well.
Ivy - nutmeg, cardamom, mandarin, candy cane accord, orris, suede, tonka bean, vetiver, sandalwood. I typed these notes in utter disbelief - how could this possibly be what I’m smelling? It’s a rather sharp, citrusy-green scent that drifts toward the masculine side of things (as much as I prefer the genderless approach to perfume). Seriously, where’s the nutmeg? Where’s the cardamom? Candy cane, for that matter? I get lots of sort of aquatic, bitter, green vetiver, and that’s pretty much it. What a letdown.
Amber - crystallised ginger, star anise, amber, lily, cassia bark, cashmere wood, benzoin. To my great surprise (considering how much I adore amber), the earth didn’t move here. If all the amber scents in the world had a contest, this would be eligible simply out of pity (or political correctness). OK, maybe I’m being a bit too harsh (when it comes to amber, I’m pretty much merciless). It’s just that amber is totally drowned in this ginger-anise, toothache-inducing syrup a la Pink Sugar. In no way does this Amber evoke anything autumn-like. Not in my world, anyway.
Autumn Splash trio is available at most department stores.
Image source: from the press release.
15 comments October 16th, 2006