My Latest Finds
September 25th, 2006
There’re way too many perfumes in the world. No, I’m not complaining. I just can’t keep up with it. Some days the top of my dresser is so full of samples they turn into pests, grow legs, and start running around until I catch them and lock them up in boxes. Then, when the dresser looks all nice and neat, I get into a sample withdrawal mode and frantically start looking for ways to get more (hello, ebay!) So, today, before the recent stack of samples on my dresser goes through its habitual transformation, I decided to quickly grab them and do a brief write-up here. I picked several I’ve tested/retested in the last couple of weeks.
Alexander McQueen Kingdom (bergamot, mandarin, neroli, rose, jasmine, cumin, ginger, sandalwood, Copahu wood, vanilla, myrrh) - didn’t give this a thorough test when it first came out. This time, it took me by surprise as a deeply sensual scent. Its floral beginning is misleading as you think it’s just going to be another rose/jasmine oriental. It then kicks you in the gut with its spiciness, cumin taking the lead and turning the whole experience into a pepper-powdery cloud (that some perceive as body odor - luckily, not me). The drydown is sort of chalk-like woody, with myrrh giving it a balsamic quality. The minute I sprayed this, I thought it reminded me of something else - Trouble by Boucheron! Sure enough, after consulting Now Smell This, I found out these two are created by the same perfumer - Jacques Cavallier. Kingdom is basically Trouble, except it’s spicy and peppery while Trouble is cashmere-like and powdery-sweet. Both perfumes can be purchased at various online discount sites (like Imaginationperfumery.com) or eBay.
Slatkin Persian Lime & Mimosa - inspired by Victoria’s review, I had to revisit it again. Vibrant, radiant, citrusy mimosa that dries down with ylang-ylang’s creamy floral sweetness. It reminds me of the smell of a good quality shampoo. It’s the type of scent for casual wear or lazy afternoons. I will probably reach for it some time mid-January when I’ll have had enough of winter to demand spring right that instant. (Availabe at Hamptonct.com)
Norma Kamali Baby - don’t even know the notes, so my guess is it’s some sort of a gentle flower, musk, and the smell of the skin of at least five babies bottled up (figuratively, of course). It’s powdery but only a touch. It’s smooth, lotion-like, silky, and clean. I absolutely adore it! It last for hours and keeps you peaceful. (Available at Beautyhabit.com)
Santa Maria Novella Opoponax - once again, inspired by Victoria’s mention, I got intrigued as I love opoponax. I was expecting it to be silky-sweet and balsamic (similar to the opoonax in Imperial Opoonax by Les Nereides). Instead, I got wet leaves mixed with dirt, lots of resin, and hints of patchouli. It’s one of those scents you love for its composition, yet question its wearability. It’ll be perfect for layering, so I’ll have to experiement. (Available at Lafcony.com)
Robert Piguet Baghari (new) - lots has been said about it on perfume blogs recently, so here’re my two cents: this is a modern version of Chanel No 5. It’s crispy-sweet (because everything has to be sweet these days) and powdery and very appealing. The aldehydes are there but sort of in the background. The lead character is sweet powder supported by blooming flowers. I quite like it but not sure it’s reached the Full Bottle Worthy status yet, plus the lasting power is mediocre.
Image source: www.corbis.com
Entry Filed under: Perfume Reviews
17 Comments Add your own
1. chaya ruchama | September 26th, 2006 at 6:08 am
Good morning, dear heart-
Interesting to revisit fragrances, isn’t it ?
Sometimes our moods that day, or chemistry, differs…or the passage of time alters our perceptions.
Enjoy the day…
2. March | September 26th, 2006 at 6:22 am
What a wonderful early-morning laugh from your notes about being overrun with samples … I just (sort of) organized myself away, and so all of a sudden I need more! Is there any greater thrill than popping one of those little labeled vials open?
Or waiting for the mailman?
3. Elle | September 26th, 2006 at 6:54 am
Totally relate to the sample withdrawal mode. I have an explorer’s spirit - in another century I’d have been hopping ships for unknown places on a constant quest for the new. SMN Opoponax actually sounds increasingly like a must have for me. Kingdom had lots of potential, but it had that dept. store twang and I couldn’t get past that. *Must* try Baghari - sounds like it’s got serious potential.
4. Judith | September 26th, 2006 at 7:21 am
NEED to try Opoponax! Agree with you on Baghari: I do like it, but probably won’t buy a FB (though it was gorgeous on my sniffing partner). I liked Kingdom when it first came out–but not enough to pursue it. Thanks for the reviews. . .
5. Marina | September 26th, 2006 at 8:23 am
I want Norma Kamali’s Baby
6. Ina | September 26th, 2006 at 10:04 am
Chaya, yes. I tend to dismiss them too quickly, so revisiting always opens new horizons for me.
7. Ina | September 26th, 2006 at 10:04 am
March, you’re right on! One of the highlights of my life, for sure.
8. Ina | September 26th, 2006 at 10:05 am
Elle, you’ll like Opoonax.
9. Ina | September 26th, 2006 at 10:05 am
Judith, you’ll love Opoponax, too.
10. Ina | September 26th, 2006 at 10:06 am
Marina, yes, you need Baby!
11. Jennifer | September 26th, 2006 at 10:37 am
As always I really need to get my hands on a sample of Baghari (I am hoping it is the Robert Piguet I can wear, besides I like Chanel 5.)
12. Ina | September 26th, 2006 at 12:00 pm
Jennifer, if you like Chanel No 5, you’ll like Baghari.
13. Lauren | September 26th, 2006 at 11:01 pm
I am weighing in to stroke Kingdom’s ego a little in light of the other posts - and I think your review was dead-on, Ina. On me, this scent is so complex and the sillage is beyond excellent. gotta sniff Trouble now too…but might I also add that SMN violet is still on my mind?
14. Ina | September 26th, 2006 at 11:13 pm
Lauren, Kingdom definitely deserves more mention.
SMN Violet, huh? I got the Vaniglia decant on ebay right away. It’s just gorgeous on me!
15. daruma | September 28th, 2006 at 5:25 am
I must try Trouble. For me, Kingdom was a dead ringer (if you remove the cumin) for Baiser d’aurore from Fragonard (now discontinued, oddly enough round about the time Kingdom came out).
16. sdn | October 9th, 2006 at 12:59 pm
i got a baghari decant recently — how i wish i liked it more. it decays on my skin into something weirdly rotten. i wish i could smell the vintage formulation …
17. Zekiye Selvili | April 27th, 2007 at 7:18 pm
I cannot believe someone would actually like let alone tolerate Kingdom. It was absolutely DISGUSTING on me. It felt like I ate indian food for a week and never showered.
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