Perfume Review: Vanilla Lust by Jill Stuart
September 11th, 2006
Needless to say, vanilla is a very widely used note in perfume, and it’s especially prevalent in recent trends (and rather excessively so). I tend to categorize vanilla into gourmand, fruity-floral, and complex. Gourmand, obviously, pertaining to perfumes that have a foody, edible effect (Comptoir Sud Pacifique line, for instance). Fruity-floral vanilla is pretty much everything that gets released these days, heavy on fruits and often cloyingly sweet. Complex vanilla is where it’s used strictly as a supplementary ingredient, usually polishing the composition or adding a certain lushness to it. This complex vanilla gets my vote, most of the time. Sure, I find some gourmand vanillas quite nice and wearable (L’Aromarine Vanille comes to mind). Likewise, some fruity-floral ones can be unique or well-blended in spite of such commonly used ingredients (Badgley Mischka is one of them). Complex vanilla scents, however, do not usually have vanilla written all over them. It’s often so masterfully blended with other notes that you can barely tell it’s even there. I especially like vanilla blended with amber, sandalwood, incense, tobacco, opoponax, patchouli, frankincense. I plan to write about these different vanillas in the future, and for today my pick is Vanilla Lust by Jill Stuart.
Vanilla Lust is borderline complex vanilla in my perception. Borderline because it’s not quite gourmand, and not quite complex. It features the notes of Madagascar vanilla, coconut milk, neroli, caramel, tiare, and sandalwood. Caramel and coconut milk give it a slightly gourmand quality. However, that only happens in top notes, when the scent is quite cream soda-like in effect (milky and creamy). As it develops, the tiare flower gives it a certain tropical lushness that’s rather subdued. The sandalwood plays an important part in the drydown. It makes me think of fresh wood shavings soaked in coconut milk and sprinkled with vanilla (and this is why it’s not quite gourmand). What doesn’t quite qualify it as a complex vanilla is the fact that it is a predominantly vanilla scent. It is a very wearable and sort of mature vanilla, however. I’m still on the fence about whether I need a bottle – I feel like it’d be ideal for the upcoming cold weather when you don’t want to smell quite like a cupcake, yet need some comfort and warmth in your perfume.
Vanilla Lust is created by a fashion designer, Jill Stuart. It’s available at Nordstrom and Beautyhabit as well as directly from Jill Stuart Beauty.
Image source: www.nordstrom.com
Entry Filed under: Uncategorized
23 Comments
1. Elle | September 12th, 2006 at 6:30 am
Blessedly, this is not one I’m going to have to fork over for. Complex or not, I just can’t wear scents w/ dominant vanilla notes any more. Of course, the second I hit ‘submit’ I’ll probably think of a half dozen scents w/ vanilla that I do still adore….but for the sake of my budget, I hope I don’t.
2. Judith | September 12th, 2006 at 7:11 am
I successfully ignored all the furor over this on the board, and I think I will continue to do so:) My idea of a great vanilla is Vanile Tonka! I can’t even wear the SL, and I doubt that I’d be enthralled with this.
3. Tommasina | September 12th, 2006 at 7:19 am
Thanks so much for the review, Ina; I’ve been wondering about this one. And now I’m wondering if my local Nordstrom has it; I suppose this is where I shout “ENABLER”, huh?
As for your liking vanilla when it’s “blended with amber, sandalwood, incense, tobacco, opoponax, patchouli, frankincense” – oh YES! I can’t wait for all the other vanilla reviews!
4. Marina | September 12th, 2006 at 8:12 am
I like this one too. I might get a bottle. And then I will use it 7 times and it will gather dust on the shelf. Story of my life
5. chaya ruchama | September 12th, 2006 at 8:31 am
Inushka, it sounds lovely-
but do I really need it, when I have Musc Ravageur?
love you- [keep your eyes on the mail, my pet !]
6. violetnoir | September 12th, 2006 at 11:11 am
I agree with you, Ina, that vanilla is a ubiquitous fragrance note.
However, I must admit that I am loving it more and more. When used correctly, a la Shalimar parfum, it is glorious!
Hugs!
7. Victoria | September 12th, 2006 at 11:35 am
This just did not catch my attention for long enough. I like vanilla as an accent note, but a sugary gourmand thing is just not my cup of tea.
8. Patty | September 12th, 2006 at 12:10 pm
I’m so torn on getting this one or not. Vanilla isn’t easy to wear for more than an hour or so for me.
9. Ina | September 12th, 2006 at 2:04 pm
Elle, you probably won’t fall for this. Hope this makes you feel better.
10. Ina | September 12th, 2006 at 2:04 pm
Judith, Vanille Tonka is a perfect example of a complex vanilla.
I love it, too.
11. Ina | September 12th, 2006 at 2:05 pm
Tommasina, your local Nordstrom’s will probably have it.
12. Ina | September 12th, 2006 at 2:06 pm
Marina, that’s what I fear, too. It’ll definitely be a seasonal scent in my collection. If BH does another $15 off promo, I might splurge.
13. Ina | September 12th, 2006 at 2:07 pm
Chaya, you only need it if you love vanilla scents.
(Stalking my mail person daily).
14. Ina | September 12th, 2006 at 2:07 pm
Robin, Shalimar parfum is another perfect example of complex vanilla.
15. Ina | September 12th, 2006 at 2:08 pm
Vika, I thought this was too sugary at first, too, but then I got the sandalwood that made it a bit more appealing.
16. Ina | September 12th, 2006 at 2:09 pm
Patty, I know what you mean. Let’s both wait for the next BH promo.
17. March | September 12th, 2006 at 3:16 pm
Okay, you are possibly the only woman on the planet who could make a series of reviews of vanilla fragrances sound appealing. I am aware that vanilla is a note in many, many fragrances, but I like it waaaaay in the background — preferably polishing up some floral note rather than smelling like an ingredient in something I would eat.
But since I can go sniff this at Nordstrom … I will!
18. Ina | September 12th, 2006 at 3:54 pm
March, you crack me up, as always!
Yes, do smell it and let me know what you think.
19. Aromascope » Vanigl&hellip | October 4th, 2006 at 9:38 pm
[...] A few weeks ago I wrote about my personal classification of vanilla fragrances. Based on that, Vaniglia falls into the complex vanilla category. It’s not really vanilla the way you know it. Before I go into a more detailed description (short as it may be), I’ll just say it reminds me a lot of Latvian made liqueur – by that I mean these drinks. They’re characterized by a syrupy consistency and rich, dessert-like flavor. Oddly enough, I don’t find Vaniglia particularly gourmand. It does, however, possess this syrupy, boozy quality that immediately makes me think of liqueur. As for the smell, I don’t know the official notes, unfortunately. What I get is a lush, aromatic vanilla with a slight resinous/smoky undertone. It lasts for hours and is ideal for this gloomy fall weather. I simply adore and highly recommend it! [...]
20. r. | January 8th, 2007 at 10:47 pm
After a very long search, and a lot of head aches, I was lucky to find this wonderful perfume. From when you put it on, until the following morning shower, the scent is wonderful. My kids, three decades apart, love it and snuggle up to me to smell it, my husband, and friends love it. But most important, I am comfortable in this scent. It never overpowers, it’s just really nice.
21. Ina | January 9th, 2007 at 3:58 pm
R., how wonderful that you love it so much! It’s a great feeling.
22. Melisa | October 10th, 2007 at 6:42 pm
OMG…for those of you saying this will sit on your shelf collecting dust…send it my way!!!! I LOVE THIS SCENT! I can’t tell you how many compliments I have received wearing this perfume…as far as me being told someone wanted to eat me I smelled so good!! My sister gave it to me as a gift and it is now gone…not even one drop left…and everyone is SOLD OUT
I am hoping that Nordstrom in St. Louis might have it in the store…if not I will just keep trying online. I highly recommend this to anyone who likes a subtle musky…I’m sorry…lusty smell. And this is from someone who never touched any perfumes with vanilla!
23. Angelica | February 27th, 2008 at 11:09 am
LOL @ melisa. I know how you feel! This has to be the best vanilla I’ve ever had.