Latest Finds
August 28th, 2006
Today’s post is not going to be a review of a single fragrance. I’ll just share with you my impressions of a few of my latest finds. I must say after an overdose of Noir Epices for my imaginary revenge last Friday, I had to take a break from wearing perfume all weekend. I did, however, get a chance to do a super brief test of the newest Rumeur by Lanvin, Banana Republic three new perfumes (Alabaster, Rosewood, and Jade), and Herve Leger Rose. None of these left a memorable impression of any kind, other than being nice and pretty florals, except the Banana Republic ones which I found extremely cloying and totally overdone. Luckily, I also received a few packages from wonderful perfume maniacs like myself who shared with me some gems, and today I’d like to share with you what they are.
Sensuelle Russie by Esteban - this one has been recently talked about on Makeupalley as well as reviewed by Scented Salamander here. Needless to say, I got instantly intrigued, not just by the notes alone (bergamot, Siberian pine, cardamom, cinnamon, cedar, patchouli, vanilla) but also by the name, naturally. When I first smelled it, I immediately thought it was a clone of Ambre Narguile, just less syrupy and less rummy-sweet. I’m trying it again as I write this, and I get more pine this time and lots of cinnamon and just a hint of patchouli, and no honey at all. If it’s not a clone of Ambre Narguile, it’s definitely the watered down version. In addition, the price is way more appealing (30 euro, I believe) but you cannot buy this anywhere in the U.S. yet, and the Esteban folks in Paris won’t ship here either.
Rose en Noir by Miller Harris - this was created by Lyn Harris especially for the Liberty store in London. Lucky you if you live in London. Get yourself to Liberty to smell this strikingly gorgeous rose. If you don’t live in London, get yourself to ebay to obtain a decant (it was still there last time I checked) or don’t try to obtain it at all for you will be a victim of unrequited love. I have no notes for Rose en Noir, so if anybody has this info, please comment. Here’s what I’m getting: an almost dirty rose with perhaps saffron, just a hint of something sparkly, perhaps apple. It then becomes sweeter and jam-like but not syrupy sweet. The drydown is where it leaves me almost unconscious - it smells like a lipstick. Yes, believe it or not, I’m a sucker for lipstick smells (even though I don’t actually wear lipstick). My other favorite lipstick smell is Lipstick Rose by Frederic Malle. Rose en Noir is not the same type of lipstick. It’s sultry and voluptuous. I’m utterly infatuated by it and am this close to writing a petition to Miller Harris to make this scent available worldwide.
Opium parfum by Yves Saint Laurent - go ahead, laugh at me. I was not an Opium wearer in my youth, and the first time I actually smelled it was just a few years ago, and it was not good on me at all, in spite of its sumptuous notes (cinnamon, pepper, orange, pimento, carnation, jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, vanilla, benzoin, patchouli, opoponax). I’ve also tried various Opium limited edition versions and was left underwhelmed. However, parfum. Parfum brings out a whole new scent! I have a habit of trying scents that don’t work on me in parfum concentration whenever possible. In this case, it’s not only better composed, it’s also far superior in effect. Cinnamon-pepper-carnation-opoponax with almost a smoky touch. Extremely well-rounded and much more wearable. I highly recommend trying this out, especially if you love deep floral orientals.
Nuit de Noel extrait by Caron - I have tried this before but didn’t give it enough credit. For a scent created in 1922, it’s amazingly timeless. Sure, there’s oakmoss and rose-jasmine blend that is so prevalent in fragrances of that era. However, its drydown is so soft and honeyed (which I presume is opoponax, although I didn’t see it listed as a note) that it just wins your heart in spite of your resistance. I do tend to resist loving Caron scents as most of them just seem so musty and old-fashioned. Nuit de Noel is the exception, especially in extrait form (which is what I fell in love with). In the very drydown, it slightly reminds me of the way Farnesiana dries down but with more bitterness and noirness. It’s stunning and cozy at the same time.
What are your recent finds?
Entry Filed under: Perfume Reviews
21 Comments Add your own
1. Elle | August 29th, 2006 at 6:12 am
Rose en Noir really is beyond gorgeous, which is very depressing since, aside from not being cheap to start w/, it’s at Liberty’s who apparently get a luxury suite on the QM2, complete w/ attendant to ship it to the US.
I’m still patiently waiting for the day you fall for the other Caron extraits.
2. chaya ruchama | August 29th, 2006 at 6:19 am
Good morning, Inushka !
You’ve been a busy bee…
Sorry about the NE- I bought some yesterday, because I was so stunned that no one complained, and I have been feeling very noir myself, lately [not my usual wont at all-I usually project a suuny persona,regardless of scent].
Aedes doesn’t carry that Esteban, so we are safe, for now.
And as this Miller Harris isn’t here yet, I’ll relax a little… though your description sounds as if Gourmandises and Black Aoud had an all-night rave…
Recent discoveries?
The new Elixir des Merveilles, which I love.
Miss Balmain [rediscovered, or Uncovered in my perfume mess]- badly misnamed- no young girl would be caught dead in this one- a floral-leather chypre that puts hair on your chest and gives you gooseflesh at the same time…it’s a skanky li’l sweetheart !
Caron’s Pois de Senteur- don’t be fooled by the sweet beginning. It’s deep, with a dark finish of honey/ tabac that will linger for hours, hauntingly. A so-called soliflore with chutzpah-Daltroff rides again !
Black Aoud- a dark, saffron-y rose chypre with resinous aoud base, lasting, mysterious, and noir-noir.
Have a good day,Zlata…
3. March | August 29th, 2006 at 6:58 am
So true about parfum concentrations — to my heartbreak, I have discovered that many non-fave EDPs are lovely in parfum… I’m not laughing, b/c I already love Opium (you can laugh at ME). I have never smelled the parfum, and I bet it would be stunning.
OD’ing on Noir Epices would be pretty brutal…. NOT gonna say anything about Caron extrait, my idea of hell.
I agree with Chaya that Miss Balmain is soooooo The Wrong Name.
4. Judith | August 29th, 2006 at 8:05 am
So glad you love the Opium parfum; it’s one of my all-time favorites (March–I too love all Opiums; you must smell this:), NdN is great, too–and, as Elle said, I hope this is a first step toward helpless, hopeless Caron-love! As you know, I really like ReN, too, but—it’s 95 pounds at Liberty (not dollars, pounds), and, to reference Elle again, their shipping charges are outrageous. It was make exclusively for Liberty, so they might object to its wider distribution, but–Lyn Harris is going to be at the October sniffa, which I am attending; I will see what I can do about getting more:) . And finally–I agree that SR is very much like a less intense AN (we are so much in concert today:). I like it very much, but II already have a ton of AN, so I think I’ve dodged that bullet!! However–as a Parfum des Merveilles fan, I need to try that Elixer; I already really like the other ones Chaya lists, esp. Miss Balmain (well, PdS is far from my favorite Caron, but it’s still great:)
5. Judith | August 29th, 2006 at 8:08 am
Ack! sorry for the typos! I wish we could edit: “made” not “make,” “elixir” not “elixer.”
6. Marina | August 29th, 2006 at 8:48 am
OK, you saved me from suffering from unrequited love for Rose en Nuit. I dont want anything that smells like lipsticks, ever again. A near-fatal overdose of Lipstick Rose on a hot summer day killed my love for those kinds of scents forever (or at least for near future).
I think you were very kind to Sensuelle Russie. By that I don’t mean it’s not great-smelling, of cours it is great smelling, it smells just like AN! But it is SO similar, so obviously “inspired” by it that Hermes should consider legal action.
7. Jenn | August 29th, 2006 at 12:48 pm
my recent find so far is Dolce & Gabbana Red Cap and Rochas Tocade.
8. Ina | August 29th, 2006 at 1:03 pm
Elle, I’m so going to London this year! Must get that Rose en Noir.
9. Ina | August 29th, 2006 at 1:05 pm
Chaya, I’m super curious to try Elixir des Merveilles! I think I might even run to our Hermes shop today. As for Miss Balmain, sadly, it didn’t work on me, and I got it in parfum. Do you have the parfum? I’d be more than happy to send my bottle to you, if you’d like.
10. Ina | August 29th, 2006 at 1:05 pm
March, you *must* smell Opium parfum then! MUST!!!
11. Ina | August 29th, 2006 at 1:06 pm
Judith, you and me know who’s at fault here, especially with Rose en Noir.
But do pester Lyn when you see her at the Sniffa! She must make it more available.
12. Ina | August 29th, 2006 at 1:07 pm
Marina, you might very well love Rose en Noir. It’s not just lipstick. It’s just gorgeous. I can’t wait to read your thoughts on SR, though!
13. Ina | August 29th, 2006 at 1:08 pm
Jenn, Dolce & Gabbana Red is one unique perfume! I truly appreciate its composition but cannot wear it, sadly. Rochas Tocade is another winner, for sure. Enjoy!
14. chaya ruchama | August 29th, 2006 at 5:44 pm
Ina-
How sweet of you to offer- I’m floored !
Feel free to email me [you’ve got my email info]- I’d love to hear from you.
Kiss…
15. Jenn | August 30th, 2006 at 11:56 am
Ina,
If there is one thing I have learned is with Dolce & Gabbana pefumes you really have to try before you buy, they really do turn different from every wearer. Most D&G scents turn incredibly creamy on me, well so far that has held true with Sicily (creamy sandalwood), Light Blue (creamy lemon with a hint of cedar), and the Red Cap (creamy lily with a powdery sandalwood drydown that is really similar to KM Loukhoum).
16. Tommasina | August 30th, 2006 at 1:10 pm
I have so many recent discoveries bcs I just got back from a week in Paris with my beloved: he went off and “did” museums and I “did” perfumeries! Hah!
Ina, I’m so sorry you OD’d on Lipstick Rose since that was one I ADORED at first sniff – and should have gone back and bought, but ran out of time. Since I live in NC, I either have to order it from Barneys or trawl through MUA to see who has samples. I do envy those of you who live close to places that actually sell these wonderful niche lines . I was cowed by the rather snooty SA in the rue du Mont Thabor FM store (the rue de Grenelles one was closed for August) so didn’t dare tell her I actually wanted to try Noir Epices – as well as Eau d’Hiver, Carnal Flower, and Musc Ravageur, rather than what she offered me based on my favorite perfumes (I think she got bored after hearing the first 12 or so - ).
Unfortunately, Nicolaï, Maître P et G, and Parfumerie Générale were all closed for August, as was the Champs Elysées Guerlain flagship on the only day I could make it out there; and Iunx closed down in March. Boo! However, I DID go to SL at the Palais Royal and tried almost ALL the “France only” line of SLs: LOVED (and should have bought, stupid woman) Fumerie Turque. I actually did buy Douce Amère from Printemps, which both my husband and I like on each other, but am now furiously lemming FT as well as Lipstick R.
Other discoveries - in the sense that I sniffed them several times and wanted to smell more but didn’t actually go so far as buying them - Rochas Alchimie and Absolu, about neither of which I’m entirely sure; E. Coudray Nohiba body oil (like Opium and VERY long lasting!); Cristobal by Balenciaga; L’Artisan’s Passage D’Enfer and Piment Brûlant – and then the less intersting ones, I imagine, from the POV of more seasoned perfumistas: Armani Sensi; YSL Cinéma; Lolita Lempicka L …
There are plenty more - I am such a neophyte - but I’d better stop there: I can hear growling in the ranks!
17. Ina | August 30th, 2006 at 3:30 pm
Jenn, I used to adore Light Blue! I still find it appealing, just don’t wear it any more. Sicily is nice, too. I have a sample of Red so I’ll have to give it proper testing again this fall.
18. Ina | August 30th, 2006 at 3:33 pm
Tommasina, what a bummer about closed shops in August! Those folks in Europe are rather spoiled with their vacation time. But I’m glad you got to smell SL scents. I *adore* Fumerie Turque! I’d love to go to Paris just for perfume shopping.
As for Rochas Alchimie and Absolu, you should check ebay or online discounters - they’re very cheap there.
19. Tommasina | August 30th, 2006 at 6:23 pm
Ina, thanks so much for replying, despite my being behind schedule, as it were. I should have known about things being closed, having been in and around France for so many years: I am English; I went with my parents to France every year during our summer holidays from age 4 to 17; I lived there for 6 months aged 18; my first degree is French (and Italian); my parents now have a house in France (AKA “the hovel” – which it really *was* when they bought it for next to nothing 12 years ago with retirement money: no water, electricity, sewage, drainage…) Anyway – now that everyone knows way too much about me that they had no interest in knowing in the first place - thanks for commiserations on perfume boutique closures; and I’m already onto the online discounters for the Rochas perfumes – though still not sure what *I* think about them AND not sure what ppl’s opinions are on them; so am somewhat cowed by thinking that, although I *think* I like them, they may be beyond the pale for yer “ ‘aute perfumistas”… Honestly - what do ppl think of those two, for exmaple? I’ve read MUA and Basenotes comments; but still…
But then again, it’s what you like that counts, isn’t it?
(But then again, again – I am always swayed by the opinions of others, as stupid as that may be ~ )
Uff – time to stop. Sorry I always run on too long!
20. Aromascope » My Fav&hellip | October 20th, 2006 at 12:20 am
[…] L’Air de Rien Rose en Noir […]
21. Aromascope » Summer&hellip | July 19th, 2007 at 11:11 pm
[…] Rose en Noir by Miller Harris is one of my favorite sultry rose scents of all time. […]
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