Latest Finds
Today’s post is not going to be a review of a single fragrance. I’ll just share with you my impressions of a few of my latest finds. I must say after an overdose of Noir Epices for my imaginary revenge last Friday, I had to take a break from wearing perfume all weekend. I did, however, get a chance to do a super brief test of the newest Rumeur by Lanvin, Banana Republic three new perfumes (Alabaster, Rosewood, and Jade), and Herve Leger Rose. None of these left a memorable impression of any kind, other than being nice and pretty florals, except the Banana Republic ones which I found extremely cloying and totally overdone. Luckily, I also received a few packages from wonderful perfume maniacs like myself who shared with me some gems, and today I’d like to share with you what they are.
Sensuelle Russie by Esteban - this one has been recently talked about on Makeupalley as well as reviewed by Scented Salamander here. Needless to say, I got instantly intrigued, not just by the notes alone (bergamot, Siberian pine, cardamom, cinnamon, cedar, patchouli, vanilla) but also by the name, naturally. When I first smelled it, I immediately thought it was a clone of Ambre Narguile, just less syrupy and less rummy-sweet. I’m trying it again as I write this, and I get more pine this time and lots of cinnamon and just a hint of patchouli, and no honey at all. If it’s not a clone of Ambre Narguile, it’s definitely the watered down version. In addition, the price is way more appealing (30 euro, I believe) but you cannot buy this anywhere in the U.S. yet, and the Esteban folks in Paris won’t ship here either.
Rose en Noir by Miller Harris - this was created by Lyn Harris especially for the Liberty store in London. Lucky you if you live in London. Get yourself to Liberty to smell this strikingly gorgeous rose. If you don’t live in London, get yourself to ebay to obtain a decant (it was still there last time I checked) or don’t try to obtain it at all for you will be a victim of unrequited love. I have no notes for Rose en Noir, so if anybody has this info, please comment. Here’s what I’m getting: an almost dirty rose with perhaps saffron, just a hint of something sparkly, perhaps apple. It then becomes sweeter and jam-like but not syrupy sweet. The drydown is where it leaves me almost unconscious - it smells like a lipstick. Yes, believe it or not, I’m a sucker for lipstick smells (even though I don’t actually wear lipstick). My other favorite lipstick smell is Lipstick Rose by Frederic Malle. Rose en Noir is not the same type of lipstick. It’s sultry and voluptuous. I’m utterly infatuated by it and am this close to writing a petition to Miller Harris to make this scent available worldwide.
Opium parfum by Yves Saint Laurent - go ahead, laugh at me. I was not an Opium wearer in my youth, and the first time I actually smelled it was just a few years ago, and it was not good on me at all, in spite of its sumptuous notes (cinnamon, pepper, orange, pimento, carnation, jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, vanilla, benzoin, patchouli, opoponax). I’ve also tried various Opium limited edition versions and was left underwhelmed. However, parfum. Parfum brings out a whole new scent! I have a habit of trying scents that don’t work on me in parfum concentration whenever possible. In this case, it’s not only better composed, it’s also far superior in effect. Cinnamon-pepper-carnation-opoponax with almost a smoky touch. Extremely well-rounded and much more wearable. I highly recommend trying this out, especially if you love deep floral orientals.
Nuit de Noel extrait by Caron - I have tried this before but didn’t give it enough credit. For a scent created in 1922, it’s amazingly timeless. Sure, there’s oakmoss and rose-jasmine blend that is so prevalent in fragrances of that era. However, its drydown is so soft and honeyed (which I presume is opoponax, although I didn’t see it listed as a note) that it just wins your heart in spite of your resistance. I do tend to resist loving Caron scents as most of them just seem so musty and old-fashioned. Nuit de Noel is the exception, especially in extrait form (which is what I fell in love with). In the very drydown, it slightly reminds me of the way Farnesiana dries down but with more bitterness and noirness. It’s stunning and cozy at the same time.
What are your recent finds?
21 comments August 28th, 2006