Perfume Review: Dzongkha by L’Artisan Parfumeur
August 23rd, 2006
Dzongkha is the new release by L’Artisan Parfumeur that’s supposed to be officially out in the U.S. some time in September. I’ve been anticipating it with much impatience, and after reading Marina’s review, became even more antsy as to whether it’ll really live up to its name and my expectations. Well, how should I say it. It didn’t necessarily leave me indifferent. Neither did it put me anywhere close to the state of ecstasy I was in over Cuir Amethyste, for instance (I’m beginning to think nothing will truly measure up to it this season). Overall, I must say I expected more character and more spirit, if you will, especially considering the fact it was inspired by the temples in Bhutan.
For a brief note analysis, it starts out slightly similar to Bois Farine, another fragrance by L’Artisan Parfumeur, with a powdery sweet lychee and cardamom accord. This is also the stage where I get some iris but not enough to call it an iris scent. Then it falls into a light incense stage, with just a hint of leather. It’s also said to feature an Indian papyrus note (which I haven’t smelled in real life), and I do get some sort of an old paper accord. For some reason, I imagined Dzongkha to be dense and heavy on spices and woods. It’s neither. In fact, it’s rather translucent and seems to also posses a wet quality, like wet flowers, wet leaves. Marina called it introspective, and I agree. However, everything you’ve read so far only lasts for about 10 minutes. After that, it takes on a soapy quality and starts smelling like vetiver and celery (and reminds me a lot of Sel de Vetiver by The Different Company), and that’s exactly where it leaves me slightly underwhelmed. Nevertheless, Dzongkha seems to fall into the category of those scents that grow on you, so I’m not ready to give up yet, and do think I’d actually wear it from time to time.
Dzongkha samples are now available at Aus Liebe Zum Duft.
Image source: www.ausliebezumduft.de
Entry Filed under: New Perfumes, Perfume Reviews
25 Comments Add your own
1. March | August 24th, 2006 at 5:41 am
I don’t know whether to laugh or cry. I was expecting a lot more strength out of this. I’ll try it, obviously, but comparing it to Bois Farine and Sel de Vetiver isn’t giving me tons of confidence.
2. Elle | August 24th, 2006 at 6:25 am
OK, I can wrap my mind around a Buddhist inspired scent being appealing in a quiet and meditative sort of way and not having a strong character, but my face starts to scrunch up in dismay (extreme) when I read about lychee, celery and soapy notes. Celery especially - it ranks as one of my top 5 most dreaded notes in perfumery. Let’s just say this won’t be an unsniffed purchase.
3. chaya ruchama | August 24th, 2006 at 6:50 am
Ina, dearest-
You worked hard on this one…
I AM intrigued, perverse one that I am, with murmurs of “wet’ and ‘celery’ along with paper.
Naturally,like you, I seek [often] intensity and mystery, but I’ll judiciously sniff this eagerly when available, to unearth this brouhaha confusion.
Thank you for your efforts, ma petite-
Mwah!
4. Judith | August 24th, 2006 at 7:44 am
I got this yesterday and tried it immediately. Now, admittedly, it was at somewhat of a disadvantage because I had already sprayed Cuir Amethyste in the best spots on my body, but I thought it was very nice, but not nice enough to make me reach for my CC. Unlike you, I thought I liked it better as it went along, but maybe it was just growing on me. I didn’t pick up a similarity to Sel de Vetiver (which I happen to love); I mostly smelled iris. It did remind me of something else (l’homme de coeur, maybe? I don’t know, but another iris scent for sure), and its lack of distinctiveness as well as its lack of raw power are part of the reason I don’t think I will be buying this. But I need to give it a fairer chance–without the competition from Cuir Amethyste.:) I like it better than Alamut, anyway!
5. Marina | August 24th, 2006 at 7:54 am
I started from feeling “meh” and ended up Needing A Bottle Right Now Can’t Wait Till September!
So it might just grow on you yet. Thank you very much for a lovely review…which only wetted my appetite for a bottle of this *sigh*
6. Ina | August 24th, 2006 at 8:16 am
March, I know. I KNOW! Bummer.
7. Ina | August 24th, 2006 at 8:17 am
Elle, it is appealing, just not appealing enough, I guess.
8. Ina | August 24th, 2006 at 8:17 am
Chaya, oh, this one is definitely worth trying, and I imagine it’ll have quite a few followers. Just not sure if I’ll be one of them. Well, maybe.
9. Ina | August 24th, 2006 at 8:18 am
Judith, I just layered it with Safran Troublant, and I’m loving it like that. I seriously got close to no iris! What’s up with my chemistry? I get lots of metallic vetiver in the drydown.
10. Ina | August 24th, 2006 at 8:19 am
Marina, you just had to say that, didn’t you? Brother. But I know what you mean, it might grow on me.
11. Robin | August 24th, 2006 at 11:07 am
I detested Cuir Amethyste, and your description of this sounds right up my alley. Perhaps we are (like Marina & I) evil fragrance twins? I have only smelled Dzongkha on a card as yet, but I am very very hopeful that I’m going to adore it.
12. Ina | August 24th, 2006 at 11:38 am
Robin, I’m afraid we are evil twins.
I do think you’ll love Dzongkha. 
13. Andrea | August 24th, 2006 at 2:17 pm
…so this is it: The big D! Sprayed it at first on a paper strip, then right wrist, left one.. and now I,m somehow speechless, wordless; I really don,t know what to say or think of this perfume. Am I disappointed? No, not really… I can only compare it with this: on a rainy and cold sunday summer afternoon are you happy that you,d cancelled a picknick with dear friends or are you sad and contemplate over a cup of coffee, your cat as company? Is this a melancholic perfume? *talks to inner self* well, Ms Dickens… too high expections…
ah, by the way “chaya ruchama”, I have to apologize ‘cos I called you on my last post simply “raya”; how rude!
14. violetnoir | August 24th, 2006 at 2:41 pm
Cheer up, Ina, it could have been worse. You may have actually loved it and been drawn to pulling out your CC and spending money on it.
I actually heave a sigh of relief when I don’t like a new fragrance, because that means I saved what little money I have, lol!
Hugs!
15. Ina | August 24th, 2006 at 3:28 pm
Andrea, what a beautiful comment!
16. Ina | August 24th, 2006 at 3:29 pm
Robin, you have a very good point!
17. chaya ruchama | August 24th, 2006 at 4:06 pm
Andrea-
Don’t sweat it, my dear.
No offense taken- my blogname is a bitch to remember…
Unlike my person, in which bitchy bones do not exist.
18. peppernuts | August 24th, 2006 at 4:37 pm
Dzongkha has the subtle air of Après L´Ondee, which matches the summerrain impressions of Andrea. Yes, and I´ve expected more spices, more firm character,but,forget all expectations and just try it open minded,surprise: It´s a beautyful, fragile, incensy and powdery Iris!
19. Tigs | August 24th, 2006 at 4:51 pm
Celery?!?! That is very strange… I, like Marina, got an introspective iris, with quite a bit of papyrus. The papyrus I know from scents like Gucci Homme, but you are right in that the fragrance is somehow “wetter” than I expected. (Not, well, dusty, like some other incense scents.) I actually found it strong for L’Artisan, and not very sweet. Don’t know what to think. Today I’m wearing the Balenciaga Prelude you sent after I won the draw and my feelings are tragically and surprisingly unequivocal about that one - I want it.
20. Ina | August 24th, 2006 at 4:52 pm
Peppernuts, that’s the thing. I get no iris. I get vetiver. Wah!
21. Ina | August 24th, 2006 at 4:53 pm
Tigs, see above - I get no iris! I’ll keep trying, though. I’m glad you love Prelude.
22. Aromascope » L̵&hellip | September 15th, 2006 at 12:19 am
[…] Now on to some important bits of information regarding the line. Contrary to the recent rumor regarding discontinuation of Dzing! - I personally asked Monsieur Dequesne, it is not true. Big sigh of relief! L’Artisan also plans to open their signature shop in Chicago next year - very excited about that! Dzongkha, that’s to be released in October, is now available for pre-orders at Ruby Room as well as Barney’s. […]
23. Aromascope » Bois d&hellip | October 26th, 2006 at 10:23 pm
[…] Bois d’Ombrie is a new fragrance in the Eau d’Italie line, created by Bertrand Duchaufour who’s also the nose behind their Paestum Rose as well as L’Artisan Dzongkha, Poivre Piquant, Mechant Loup. (courtesy of Now Smell This). It’s said to be inspired by the Umbrian woods of Italy which makes it a predominantly woody scent. Just like Paestum Rose, its composition seems impeccable, and, while it’s certainly impressive and unusual, it falls into the category of fragrances with only conceptual appeal. In other words, I admire it for its concept, yet find it lacking as far as wearability. Don’t get me wrong: it does sit well on the skin. It does not, however, move anywhere, it seems. […]
24. where is the stor e located in chicago??????????????????? | May 14th, 2007 at 10:44 am
where is the store in chicago?????????????
25. Ina | May 14th, 2007 at 11:05 am
The store is located at the 900 Shops mall, Level 1 (next to the Fogal shop). The address is 900 N Michigan Ave, 60611.
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