Perfume Review: Orris Noir by Ormonde Jayne
August 1st, 2006
Orris Noir is the newest addition to the Ormonde Jayne line, created by its owner Linda Pilkington. Ormonde Jayne is a small niche perfumery located in London’s West End. I had an opportunity to visit the shop almost two years ago, and had a nice little chat with Linda who’s an absolute delight. I’m fascinated by her creations, Tolu and Ormonde being amongst my most favored ones but since the news spread about her latest one with such an intoxicating name, I was sure I was destined to love it. And love it I do.
While I adore the name, nothing about the scent strikes me as particularly black. When I see “noir” in a perfume name, I immediately envision some sort of a dark quality the perfume possesses - whether it’s the darkness of patchouli/oakmoss, incense or dry, heavy spices. I’m not sure what exactly is behind the name here but I’ll certainly try to find out (see above post). Orris Noir starts out with a very aromatic, almost minty smell. The pink pepper note that seems to permeate the scent throughout is very similar to that in Ta’if. Cardamom and coriander sort of tame the initial aromatic effect revealing an almost chypre-like accord which I’m interpreting as the iris and jasmine pairing. The iris here is quite ingenious. It’s unlike any other iris I’ve smelled, certainly not related to the iris in Hermes Hiris or Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist. It’s a dry, spicy iris if that makes sense. While in top notes the scent produces more of a bright and verdant effect, the middle stage is a parade of spices and resins. This is also my favorite part, I think, as I’m particularly fascinated by how soft the spices/resins are - nothing too sharp or heavy. There’s something just a little Tolu-like in this stage, and I cannot figure out what exactly it is. I’m also getting just a touch of sweetness of myrrh on a very gentle woody base. Another scent it reminds me of purely in effect is Rosine Poussiere de Rose. Overall, it’s a complex yet very wearable spicy floral that will undoubtedly become very popular in no time.
Orris Noir is classified as a spicy oriental and features the notes of davana (aromatic Indian herb), pink pepper, cardamom, iris, sambac (Indian jasmine), coriander seed, bergamot, pimento, bay cinnamon, incense, myrrh, patchouli, Chinese cedar, saffron, civet, Gaiac wood.
The scent can be purchased directly from the Ormonde Jayne online shop. To my knowledge, the parfum version is available for sale now, and the eau de parfum concentration will be available in September.
Image source: www.ormondejayne.com
Entry Filed under: New Perfumes, Perfume Reviews
42 Comments Add your own
1. Victoria O | August 2nd, 2006 at 4:19 am
Sounds like I may be adding another to my collection!
Great review, I can’t wait to try.
2. March | August 2nd, 2006 at 5:40 am
Oh, it sounds just glorious! I think this line is very interesting (do you agree there’s sort of an Ormonde-ade?); Ta’if and Sampaquita are probably my favorites. The regular Ormonde I love on paper but not on me… sounds like a great new interpretation of orris. PS Did you smell Andy’s Tauer’s orris? Wow. I sure hope he adds it to his line.
3. Elle | August 2nd, 2006 at 5:40 am
Fantastic review! Orris Noir has just elbowed its way to the top of my lemming list. Must. Have. Soon. Very.
4. Judith | August 2nd, 2006 at 6:48 am
Arggggh!! Fantastic review! Makes me want it right now! Although strangely, I am not, unlike most others, a huge OJ fan. Don’t get me me wrong, I like all of her scents; I just don’t find myself wearing them too often. I have no idea why; perhaps I need to give them more of a chance. At the moment, the one that gets the most wear is Ormonde Man–on DH (smells divine on him). Can’t wait to try this, though (even if they lied about the Noir:).
5. greeneyes | August 2nd, 2006 at 7:34 am
Thanks for this wonderful review, Ina! I love all the OJ scents (Frangipani, Ta’if, and Champaca are my favorites), and I cannot wait to try this one. I’m about to order some Isfarkand for my husband…maybe I’ll get a sample!
6. Marina | August 2nd, 2006 at 8:22 am
Sound great, thank you so much for the review! But tell me, did you love it? Or like it? Is it FBW for you?
7. Ina | August 2nd, 2006 at 8:31 am
Victoria, you’ll love it for sure.
8. Ina | August 2nd, 2006 at 8:34 am
March, yes! I do think there’s Ormonde-ade. I was just thinking about it myself last night.
I have tried Andy’s Orris and wrote a review here.
9. Ina | August 2nd, 2006 at 8:35 am
Elle, you’re just as destined to love it as I was/am.
10. Ina | August 2nd, 2006 at 8:35 am
Judith, you might quite like it! I adore Ormonde for Man. In fact, thanks for reminding me that I need to get me some of that.
11. Ina | August 2nd, 2006 at 8:36 am
Greeneyes, if you love the other OJs, you’ll love Orris Noir, too. Isfarkand is another one I must have myself. This never ends!
12. Ina | August 2nd, 2006 at 8:37 am
Marina, yes! I love it! I said so in my first paragraph.
Very much FBW.
13. Patty | August 2nd, 2006 at 9:25 am
want. need. must have.
September? too long.
14. Ina | August 2nd, 2006 at 9:35 am
Patty, you can buy the parfum now. It’s only double the price of EDP but who cares?
15. Victoria | August 2nd, 2006 at 10:18 am
Sounds lovely! Cannot wait to try it.
16. Ina | August 2nd, 2006 at 10:20 am
Victoria, it’s gorgeous! The more I wear it, the more I’m smitten.
17. chaya ruchama | August 2nd, 2006 at 10:39 am
Ina, my dear-
You HAD to mention Poussiere, didn’t you?!
If I’m mad for THAT, G-d knows what I’ll think of this one…
All my favorite notes…
It’s not kind of you to tease-
Thanks for taking the time to do such an in-depth review.
18. Ina | August 2nd, 2006 at 10:46 am
Chaya, it’s not a lot like Poussiere but it sure has a similar feel to it. I simply adore it! I’m sure you will, too.
A little teasing is good, now and then.
19. violetnoir | August 2nd, 2006 at 10:52 am
Lovely review. While I love her originality, I have yet to find a fragrance from OJ that I like. Perhaps this will be the one…
Hugs!
20. Ina | August 2nd, 2006 at 11:01 am
Robin, this one is truly gorgeous. Don’t give up yet!
21. BBliss | August 2nd, 2006 at 12:41 pm
How lucky to experience this, not just daydream about it!
I really enjoy your blog, and I enjoyed this review as well. Sounds like a must-have OJ! Spicy iris - yum! Do you think it is better suited for cooler weather, or is it a year-round scent? Is it at all similar to the spices in Andy’s Orris? Thanks!
22. Ina | August 2nd, 2006 at 1:15 pm
BBlis, nice to see you here!
Well, my first thought it’d be better suited for colder weather but a year round application would be just as good. It’s 100 degree heat in Chicago right now, and it still smells gorgeous. 
No, AT Orris is heavy on leather and more woodsy.
23. mireille | August 2nd, 2006 at 1:38 pm
the Ta’if comparison — the pepper note — makes me drool. What a nice review. xoxo
24. Ina | August 2nd, 2006 at 1:42 pm
M., thank you!
25. Katie | August 2nd, 2006 at 8:47 pm
You are quick Ina! Holy cow, it seems like we only just hearing about its existence five minutes ago, and you’ve already sniffed it! Wow.
“It’s a dry, spicy iris if that makes sense.” That actually does make sense… I wonder if there’s not some small wee dab of orris butter in addtion to reg. orris root in this? Hm. I don’t know any such thing, just wondering out loud. The whole composition sounds utterly promising, especially with your description of a softness of spice and resin. Sounds sensuous.
26. Ina | August 2nd, 2006 at 9:51 pm
Katie, I’m addicted, so I needed my fix.
I’m not sure if there’s orris butter. In my short post above it explains what the flower is. 
27. Katie | August 3rd, 2006 at 4:53 pm
That’s a nice explanation, what a cool story behind it… I knew it was Iris the goddess, but I had no idea about the other stuff. That makes it a whole lot more interesting! (Sorry, I get my notices for your new posts from Bloglines, which means I sometimes miss the posts immedietly following others because of Bloglines’ annoying system burps.) Thanks for the orris myth
28. Ina | August 3rd, 2006 at 4:59 pm
You’re welcome, Katie.
29. marchlion | August 4th, 2006 at 8:24 am
Yeah, you did review Andy’s orris — and I commented on it. Duh.
30. Ina | August 4th, 2006 at 8:41 am
Dude, how could you forget?
31. Aromascope » Cuir A&hellip | August 20th, 2006 at 10:56 pm
[…] Cuir Amethyste… how I love thee. Yes, I’m going to start this review by instantly revealing how much it has won my heart. It’s not often I get this entranced by a perfume. Sure, I’ve had several olfactory love affairs recently - Orris Noir, Amoureuse, Paestum Rose, to name a few. We’re still seeing each other and are very much committed. However, my use of the word “entranced” wasn’t unintentional for it has caused me to fall into a state of ecstasy, daze, and detachment from my physical environment simultaneously. This is by far my favorite new release. […]
32. Aromascope » Best o&hellip | December 29th, 2006 at 2:17 am
[…] Orris Noir by Ormonde Jayne - velvety, balsamic iris - gorgeous beyond belief. […]
33. Aromascope » Spring&hellip | January 18th, 2007 at 10:49 pm
[…] Etro - Orris Noir by Ormonde Jayne […]
34. Aromascope » Olfact&hellip | March 11th, 2007 at 11:42 pm
[…] The last few days have brought the first whiffs of much longed for spring to the Midwest. Besides turning the clock an hour ahead, I also turned my olfactory radar to Spring, i.e., I have now officially switched from heavy, woodsy, amber-laden perfumes to lovely floral blends. Yesterday I dug out my beloved Orris Noir by Ormonde Jayne that fit absolutely perfectly. Then it was Ta’if, another wonderful scent by Ormonde Jayne, a sparkling saffron rose. Then it was Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens. Yes, I can imagine what you’re thinking now. What? Spicy amber? Didn’t she just say… ? Let me explain. I smelled Ambre Sultan on a woman at work, and experienced slight pangs for abandoning my ambers (I think the King of All Ambers was channelling it), so off I ran to douse myself with it. The result: an excruciating headache. I got the message. […]
35. Aromascope » Lazy F&hellip | March 16th, 2007 at 12:03 am
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36. Aromascope » Ormond&hellip | June 6th, 2007 at 11:01 pm
[…] new website in the USA with next day delivery for all its American admirers. Also new in November, Orris Noir will be available in three different ways: Parfum d’Or Naturel, Essential Bathing Oil, and […]
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38. kennyken | June 24th, 2007 at 11:15 am
i just purchased orris noir and i’m now waiting on it. the pure parfum. ladies, will this be good for a man as well? because i chose it over the men’s fragrances by OJ…
39. Aromascope » Perfum&hellip | August 21st, 2007 at 11:48 pm
[…] fragrances and bath & body products. I strongly admire all of their scents, my favorite being Orris Noir, followed closely by Tolu and Ta’if. There’re only two men’s scents in the line, […]
40. Ormonde Jayne - Orris Noi&hellip | January 15th, 2008 at 2:14 pm
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41. jen | April 28th, 2008 at 10:06 am
Every time I breathe in the aroma of Orris Noir it invokes thoughts of a fabulous night on the town. I should declare my allegiances I am an enormous fan of all the Ormonde Jayne fragrances I’ve tried so far. I found Frangipani Absolute, Ta’if, and in particular Ormonde Woman to be complex, enchanting, and utterly sniffable. But Orris is perhaps my ultimate choice for favorite. I love the really gorgeous pink pepper note.
42. Sara | June 26th, 2008 at 6:39 am
I fell in love with Orris Noir when it was first launched and bought a Pure Parfum and then when it finished (appropriated actually by my sister) I went back to Osmanthus, my first love at Ormond e Jayneand kept up a long distance relationship with Orris Noir when visiting my sister. But having just finally revisited Ormonde Jayne yesterday after the longest time (their online boutique it too efficient and immediatley gratifying!) I rekindled everything and we are back together forever!! Also the whole experience of visiting the perfumery and walking out with one of those gorgeous bags… The whole arcade was buzzing around because of a visit by Claudia Schiffer! There is always someone there! Anyway, back to Orris Noir, who would have thought that a Black Iris could produce this effect! on the way back I was asked twice what I was wearing! I look like one of those ducks though with my head and nose nestled into the crook of my elbow so I can inhale my Orris Noir better! It feels like owning a bespoke perfume - everything in it is just perfectly me! Pimento berries, myrrh, coriander seed, saffron, patchouli…Genius!
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