Perfume Review: Chypre Rouge by Serge Lutens
July 26th, 2006
Chypre Rouge, the newest Serge Lutens creation, has been widely talked about on perfume blogs this week, and it’s finally my turn to put in my two cents. I’m afraid it is in fact going to be just two cents as I struggle to say much about it. First, a personal little note to Serge Lutens. Serge, I love you and all of your unrivaled creations. My heart aches as I write this for deep is my devotion to you, and I’m sad to say you let me down. Nevertheless, I will love you forever.
Don’t get me wrong. The scent is not devastatingly appaling or anything. It’s just that I was expecting much more. I’m not sure what exactly but with a name of Chypre Rouge, how can one not? It’s just… not rocking my world. The best part is the top notes - the birch woodiness of Chene, the slight chocolate note of Borneo, a tad of spiciness of Arabie plus immortelle reminiscent of that in Dior Eau Noire. Sounds perfect, doesn’t it? Oh, it would be if this stage lasted longer, and if these notes were further accentuated. It’s gone before you know it, and what I’m left with is syrupy sweetness. When I was a kid, we used to make our own candy just by pouring some water into a spoon and adding some sugar and then holding the whole thing above the stove till it bubbled and got all syrupy. We’d then pour the mixture into several round shapes and insert a match into each to be later used as a holder. Homemade suckers, I guess that’s how I’d call it (”petushki” is what we called them). To stay on topic, that’s the type of syrupy sweetness I’m getting from Chypre Rouge. It’s by no means cloying or toothache inducing, yet it seems to dominate the composition, and I’d rather it didn’t. Sounds like both Victoria and Marina got the anise/licorice note similar to that in Caron Aimez Moi or Lolita Lempicka. I’m happy (I guess) to say I get none. I also don’t get much nuttiness or spiciness. Caramelized pecans is said to be one of the notes, and my nose gets none of that. There is just a hint of oakmoss that’s sort of hanging in there waiting to be noticed. Ah, as I said, my heart aches as I write all this. I so wished to be enraptured! I do think Chypre Rouge might work better in colder weather, so I’m not going to dismiss it just yet. My heart stays true to Serge.
Chypre Rouge is supposed to be available at Aedes mid-August and other U.S. retailers in September.
Image source: www.senteursdailleurs.com
Entry Filed under: New Perfumes, Perfume Reviews
20 Comments Add your own
1. Elle | July 27th, 2006 at 5:21 am
Stares at wrist….whispers prayers, incantations for Chene, Arabie and caramelized pecan producing skin chemistry (that lasts through to the dry down). But I very much appreciate that nice little note to my beloved Serge.
2. Marina | July 27th, 2006 at 7:38 am
I got no pecans either, caramelized or otherwise. I am still sulking about that.
Hehehe, petushki!!! I adored them. I remember forever pestering my parents to give me…whatever little kopeks they cost to buy them from little old ladies who sold them on the streets
And we made them in a spoon too *sheds a tear*
3. Judith | July 27th, 2006 at 8:03 am
I do feel that I got some nuts (they might as well be pecans) and burnt sugar at the top–as well as a Chene-y vibe. CN got much less sweet on me as it dried down, more like a less cuminy Eau Noire (which is a good thing in my book), and eventually began to smell a little like a chypre. Clearly quite wearable, but I still can’t decide (even after several tries) whether it’s FBW for me. It’s clearly a Fall/Winter scent, so I will try again then, and we shall see. . .
4. The Scented Salamander | July 27th, 2006 at 8:32 am
“…a tad of spiciness…”??? skin chemistry, I suppose:O With me the spiciness stays all along, going from medim to *strong*, to soft. For a moment I wondered if we were talking about the same perfume as it seems to be such an essential characterisitc of the perfume for me. BTW, you must be wondering the same after having read my review of it
Hope Serge will be able to redeem himself with Mandarine Mandarin.
5. March | July 27th, 2006 at 8:34 am
No anise here (for which I am thankful, actually). Wow. I am amazed. It is extremely strong on me, and quite tenacious, spices, woods, incense, and without the cloying sweetness that I get from some SLs. I keep playing with that and Andy’s orris… well, I guess they can’t all move the earth for you, can they? I am not, in fact, a huge Serge fan (don’t tell anyone) and I loved this, so maybe that indicates something… which are your favorite SLs?
6. Ina | July 27th, 2006 at 8:40 am
Elle, I can’t wait to hear what you think of it.
7. Ina | July 27th, 2006 at 8:40 am
Marina, oh my word! I remember those old ladies on the street! I too begged my mom to buy the candy from them. LOL!
8. Ina | July 27th, 2006 at 8:41 am
Judith, I want your skin chemistry! Wah! I get none of what you described.
9. Ina | July 27th, 2006 at 8:41 am
Helene, I know! Trust me, I so wish I got more spiciness.
10. Ina | July 27th, 2006 at 8:44 am
March, OK, something is very weird here. It’s neither strong nor tenacious on me! What’s going on? Ugh.
My fave SL: Fumerie Turque, Tubereuse Criminelle, Daim Blond, Chergui, Ambre Sultan, Rose de Nuit, Chene.
11. The Scented Salamander | July 27th, 2006 at 10:18 am
I do get the syrupy effect but it’s not cloying and for me, at least, it’s light enough to be worn in the summer.
A spicier diet might also impact the scent’s development.
12. Ina | July 27th, 2006 at 10:24 am
Helene, I just sprayed it on a piece of paper, and it’s heavenly! I get all the woods and spices and more! It must be my skin chemistry.
But I’m still hopeful cold weather might do the trick.
13. The Scented Salamander | July 27th, 2006 at 12:51 pm
Ina,
I know you love dark chocolate. Here’s a brand of chili chocolate for you:
http://www.shopnatural.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=19526&utm_source=froogle&utm_term=19526&utm_medium=Free&utm_campaign=FreeLists
Only thing I can say is that I’m aware I consumme chili regularly (I have a favorite dip recipe) and I’ve heard that it does influence one’s chemistry. BTW, I saw somewhere an article about what kinds of food one should eat to bring out certain notes in perfumes, no kidding.
14. Ina | July 27th, 2006 at 1:49 pm
Thanks, Helene! I’ve tried this brand before but not this particular kind. Will be sure to do so next time I’m at Whole Foods.
I don’t actually eat anything spicy. Very seldom. I wish there was a reasonable explanation for such skin chemistry but, alas, I can’t find one.
15. peppernuts | July 27th, 2006 at 5:19 pm
I´m trying and sniffing the CR since two days, just searching…for what? Something I´m missing here. It´s nice, and as you mentioned, Ina, the spicy stage deeper and longer would make a dream of a scent. For me it ends up very soon in the same Cedre sirupy mess. For fall go back to Borneo!!!
16. Ina | July 27th, 2006 at 6:23 pm
Hi, Peppernuts! Nice to see you here.
Yes, I wore it today all day again, and the same story. I do see what you mean with Cedre. Argh! I so wish this was better. I’d still wear it, in colder months.
17. Aromascope » Chypre&hellip | July 31st, 2006 at 8:29 pm
[…] Osmoz.com finally posted official notes for Chypre Rouge, the newest Serge Lutens creation. They are: thyme, pine needles, honey, beeswax, jasmine, fruit gums, patchouli, moss, amber, musk, vanilla. VERY surprised it has jasmine! I get none! So, where’s the caramelized pecan note? I so wish I got more of the pine needles-honey-moss-amber. Sigh. […]
18. Tom | August 10th, 2006 at 12:18 pm
I agree, I wasn’t blown away by this one. I got a slightly gummy sweetness that I could swear was immortelle with thyme and the barest hint of moss. Certainly not a scrubber, but not a hit with me either.
19. Ina | August 10th, 2006 at 12:56 pm
Tom, gummy sweetness, yes! Perfect description. I’m still hoping it’ll get transformed in cold weather.
20. Aromascope » Rousse&hellip | January 15th, 2007 at 10:27 am
[…] Rousse is all about cinnamon. Not as gourmand and vanilla-heavy as, say, Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium or Fendi’s Theorema. In Rousse, cinnamon is first illuminated by mandarin, enriched by carnation later, and polished by amber and sandalwood in the drydown. Picture Feminite du Bois by Shiseido minus the dried fruit accord and slightly less cedar. As much as I love Serge Lutens fragrances, most of them have a conceptual appeal (which simply means I find it hard to wear them). Rousse seems to be the exception. Not only does it strike me as wonderfully blended and very much wearable but also takes the first place among the latest Serge Lutens offerings, i.e., Chypre Rouge and Mandarine-Mandarin. […]
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